Phobia #4 : Bumpsteer
One thing you have to remember about aftermarket parts-just because it fits doesn't mean it's good for your car. We have experienced bumpsteer nightmares with past conversions, so we decided we would not just print a lot of pretties about Randall's rack. We wanted proof that the rack system was a measurable improvement over the stock steering. So we got out our bumpsteer gauge and put Randall's to the test.
Most of the rack systems on the market use a center steer rack with a bar to mount the original-style tie-rod setup to the rack, which keeps everything in the original position (a good thing). This keeps the system from making the bumpsteer issues worse, and allows you to use aftermarket bumpsteer correction parts with your rack setup. Some other conversions are an end-steer design that allows for modern-style tie rods with better range of motion and a smaller footprint.
Randall's setup takes the rack system one step further. It uses a center steer design that incorporates a modern inner tie rod that better places the tie-rod pivot point for improved bumpsteer. We also think the Randall's setup has more range of motion over the stock-style tie-rod system.
When it came time for Randall's Rack to put up or shut up, we were pleasantly surprised with the test results for bumpsteer. We measured the Mustang with both the stock steering and the Randall's steering and found the bumpsteer was reduced to the point that no additional bumpsteer correction was necessary. It's actually below what most racers feel is OK.
Of course, with your suspension setup and parts, and driving habits, you'll want to check bumpsteer on your car, but for this car with a stock rebuild and slight ride height reduction, the numbers came out fantastic. Take a look at what we found.
As you can see on our test vehicle, the Randall's Rack significantly reduced the amount of bumpsteer. Still not good enough for you? For its more performance-oriented clients, Randall's offers an exclusive, fully adjustable center link that allows you to adjust the length of the tie rods and all but eliminate bumpsteer.
We're now at the point where we tell you how wonderful your car will be if you just go buy this stuff. Hopefully, we've gone beyond that and have succeeded in proving to you that with a little information and some data to back us up, your rack-and-pinion conversion can be less stressful and actually improve the feel and handling of your own vehicle.
The center of the rack system...
The center of the rack system has been marked from the factory. Take the measurement number you got from the old system, divide by half, and that tells you how long to make each new tie-rod assembly.
Here's the assembled tie-rod...
Here's the assembled tie-rod system. The angled tie-rod adapter adds additional clearance for the '67-'70 systems.
The white mark on the driver-side...
The white mark on the driver-side suspension/ motor mount support needed to be ground away for clearance on one of the power steering lines-that was all the modification needed to the chassis. By the time you read this, the lines will have been reengineered, so you won't need to do this.
Mounting to the driver side...
Mounting to the driver side shows the adjustability of the system and the non-intrusion with other components of the chassis. The rack mounts to the original steering-gear holes, and for additional strength mounts to the old crossmember holes.