Randall Rack Power Steering System - A-Rack-Naphobia

This end of the lever assembly needs to be trimmed off and retained so the upper column collar can still be used.

Although you can weld the bearing to the end of the shaft, we decided to drill holes and use blue Loc-Tite to secure the screws in place. If you ever have to get into the column again, this is the way to go.

The column is ready for reinstallation. It simply bolts back in using the original firewall mount.

Owners of '65s-'66s will get a new steering-column-to-firewall mounting bracket, which works with the stock steering shaft or even some aftermarket units.

No need to cut and trim solid rods to make your steering linkage. The Randall's system comes with a premade linkage that also has the same safety design as your steering column. Not only does it adjust to your vehicle, but it is also collapsible.

This view of the installed rack shows two things. First, you can see the generous ground clearance the Randall's system provides. Second, note the proper length of the tie rods doesn't bind the suspension system in any way. In fact, we feel the system has less bind with the Randall's system than the original tie-rod system.

For those hard-core racers who need that extra advantage, Randall's has an adjustable center link that can be used for reducing or eliminating the remaining bumpsteer from the system.

Before we let Randall's off the hook, we decided to put the new steering system through a bumpsteer check. We started by leveling the car and setting the toe in, caster, and camber to the specifications provided by the company.

Next, we got out our bumpsteer gauge and measured the new system. According to our findings, it reduces bumpsteer enough for all but the most hard-core drivers.

Here's an overall view of the new system installed-you can see how much room there is. The Randall's rack-and-pinion conversion, combined with the JBA headers, is by far the cleanest install we've done to date.