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How To Install A Rack-And-Pinion KitWe Think a Rack-and-Pinion Power-Steering System Is One of the Best Upgrades Out There From the April, 2006 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Wayne Cook Photography by Wayne Cook
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This month, we have a classic Mustang upgrade going to a fellow who can really use it. Our man lives high up in California's San Bernardino Mountains in the remote community of Big Bear. All three of the two-lane roads leading there are circuitous routes full of sharp curves and dangerous drop-offs. There's little room for error on the arduous climb, and keeping his Windsor-powered '69 fastback on the road can sometimes be a handful. The standard manual steering in this car has given over 35 years of service. Those of you familiar with early Mustangs know that this usually means a cavernous on-center spot and lots of play at the steering wheel. Even with a new steering linkage and suspension, the mountain-driving experience is a challenge our vintage Mustang enthusiast doesn't relish. In the Fall of 1968, this SportsRoof Mustang was delivered new with only a 351 Windsor engine and an AM radio for options. There was no power steering to help with low-speed maneuvering or parallel parking. Back in the day when an F-70-14 tire was considered large, this wasn't too much of a problem. However, the car now has beefy P225/50R16 radial tires with a much larger contact patch out in front. Consequently, the low-speed steering requires more effort. This photo shows the complete... This photo shows the complete Total Control power rack-and-pinion kit from Chris Alston's Chassisworks. In addition to the rack itself, the kit is all-inclusive with a power-steering pump and mounting bracket, pressure hoses, and a remotely-mounted fluid reservoir. The kit has a value of $1,995, and the manual system is available for $1,295. Our friend says parallel parking his fastback is like parking a dump truck, and his wife won't go near the car. When word got out that a Total Control (TC) power rack-and-pinion steering installation was on the M&F assignment sheet, he was naturally quite interested. Total Control is now part of Chris Alston's Chassisworks, and we know from past experience that the TC power rack-and-pinion kit is an excellent upgrade and a good value. The kit provides the precise steering our friend is after, as well as reduced turning-effort at the wheel. After going over the kit, we realized that Chris Alston has dramatically upgraded the installation instructions. Divided into separate task categories for the job as a whole, they are so concise we had no reservations about tackling the installation in a home garage with only a floor jack and jackstands to assist us.  1 Here's our subject car...  1 Here's our subject car up on jackstands. We raised only the front axle and chocked the rear wheels for the duration of the project. At first, we were a little apprehensive about not having a vehicle hoist and a complete shop at hand, but after reviewing the instructions, we felt confident with jackstands. We had a small air compressor on hand with a 3/8-inch drive impact and air ratchet. Beyond these items and hand tools, the only special item needed was a cut-off wheel.  2 The steering rack mounts...  2 The steering rack mounts to the car in place of the factory engine crossmember. The rack is a stout assembly, capable of taking the loads usually handled by the factory part. The driver's side fastener is removed as shown.  3 In this photo, the crossmember...  3 In this photo, the crossmember comes away from the framerails. This crossmember is just a bent tube with crimped ends, functional but not pretty. Although we don't foresee removing the new steering system, we're saving the old parts since they're no longer available.  4 Because the entire steering...  4 Because the entire steering linkage was recently replaced, we didn't have any problem separating the tie rods from the steering horn on the spindle or from the drag link. You may need to use a pickle fork or other persuasive tool, but try not to damage the grease boots. They will be reused along with the tie rods themselves.  5 Here, we begin the process...  5 Here, we begin the process of separating the drag link from the pitman arm on the steering box. Neither the drag link nor pitman arm will be reused. Here again, you may need to use a pickle fork or two-jawed puller for the separation.  6 Don't bother disconnecting...  6 Don't bother disconnecting the idler arm at the other end of the drag link. Unbolt it from the car, and it will come away with the whole steering linkage, as shown here.  7 Under the hood, disconnect...  7 Under the hood, disconnect the steering column from the steering box at the rag joint. Here, we are inside the car removing the four bolts that affix the column to the floor.  8 The column support fasteners...  8 The column support fasteners are removed from underneath the instrument panel. The whole steering column is removed from the car and set aside. Don't forget the electrical connections.  9 Inside the driver's side...  9 Inside the driver's side wheelhouse, remove the three steering-box retaining bolts. After our steering box was free of the framerail, we tried to remove it, but it was snagged on both our Hooker Super Comp headers and the clutch cross-shaft. It wouldn't go out the bottom of the car either.  10 Here, the OE steering...  10 Here, the OE steering box is removed from the engine bay. We had to drop a header on the driver's side and remove a clutch pushrod, but we were able to get the steering box past the cross-shaft without removing it. Before continuing, we reinstalled the headers and clutch linkage.  11 At this point, the main...  11 At this point, the main instruction sheet directs you to separate instructions detailing the preparation of the steering column. By 1968, the Mustang was equipped with a collapsible steering column as a safety feature, which actually makes this job easier. Instead of cutting the long steering shaft found on earlier cars, the lower portion of the collapsible steering shaft is removed from the column tube. Grab it with a pair of pliers and tap on the pliers with a hammer. The lower portion of the shaft will easily separate from the upper half and come out of the column tube.  12 Next, the lower shaft...  12 Next, the lower shaft is replaced with the Total Control part by slipping it into the column tube where it will go into the OE upper shaft. The lower shaft is the male component and the upper is the female. Since the depth of insertion is determined by the amount of lower shaft needed to protrude from the column, don't completely sink the new lower shaft into the upper.  13 Here, the lower bearing...  13 Here, the lower bearing retainer is installed over the lower steering shaft. It needs to seat completely on the end of the column tube while allowing approximately an inch of the lower shaft to extend beyond the bearing.  14 With the bearing retainer...  14 With the bearing retainer in place, drill three holes to receive the furnished screws, and secure the retainer in place on the end of the column tube. Because the lower shaft isn't inserted the whole way, there is empty distance, or slack, remaining in the upper steering shaft, so the collapsible nature of the steering column is retained. This completes the required modifications to the steering column.  15 Here, we reinstall the...  15 Here, we reinstall the modified column into the Mustang. However, the fasteners at the floor and under the instrument panel are not tightened the whole way. We want the column to slide back and forth slightly to achieve installation of the column-to-rack connection shaft, and we'll make our final adjustments later.  16 Underneath the car, we...  16 Underneath the car, we remove the attachment bolts for the lower control arms. They will be replaced with longer bolts providing two additional mounting points for the steering rack. With the suspension hanging freely, remove the bolts and alignment eccentrics without moving the control arms.  17 The eccentrics are eliminated...  17 The eccentrics are eliminated from the suspension and replaced with these adjustment plates which are supplied with the kit. Each is drilled with three holes and can provide many different alignment adjustments. As long as the lower control arms haven't moved, we can eyeball the correct placement of the plates, lining them up with the holes in the control arm bushings, as this aspect of the frontend alignment won't be changed. At the end of the job, check the car's alignment, but only the toe-in should require adjustment.  18 With the alignment adjustment...  18 With the alignment adjustment plates in the correct position, it's a simple matter to install the new longer bolts. Gently tap them all the way through from front to rear with a hammer, as shown here.  19 The rack-mounting brackets...  19 The rack-mounting brackets are installed on the new bolts. Don't tighten the fasteners all the way yet, because you will shift the rack around during the installation process.  20 The heavy mounting brackets...  20 The heavy mounting brackets at either end of the rack attach to the car using the factory crossmember-mounting holes. The driver's-side bracket is a permanent part of the rack assembly while the passenger-side bracket must be prepared as shown here. First is the lock washer, next is the flat washer, then the bolt goes through the mounting bracket. Lastly, it is equipped with the 1/4-inch spacer. The permanently-affixed bracket also requires this spacer.  21 The passenger-side bracket...  21 The passenger-side bracket is installed into the crossmember mounting point. A mounting bracket attached at the lower control arm is also visible. When the installation is complete, there will be a total of four stout mounting points for the steering rack.  22 The steering rack is installed...  22 The steering rack is installed into position. Since the rack is fairly heavy, it's a good idea to have two people on hand. Someone doing the installation alone will need a floor jack to support the weight of the rack while the fasteners are put in position.  23 At the other end of the...  23 At the other end of the rack, a mounting bracket is welded to the steering rack itself. As the fastener is installed, notice that the required spacer between the mounting bracket and framerail has not been overlooked.  24 These machined bushings...  24 These machined bushings are used to adapt the OE tie rods to the steering rack. They are required because the studs are tapered, and the flat piece of steel that is the steering rack output is too thin to accommodate a tapered bore.  25 Here a tie-rod end goes...  25 Here a tie-rod end goes into place on the rack output. It will be retained on the other side by the OE-style castle nut and cotter pin.  26 At the spindle end of...  26 At the spindle end of the tie rod, the attachment is accomplished. Remember, the rack is still loose in the car, and a trip to the alignment shop is at the top of the list when done.  27 This photo shows the completed...  27 This photo shows the completed rack installation from underneath the car. There is still plenty of work left to do under the hood.  28 This photo clearly shows...  28 This photo clearly shows our setup underneath the hood. Note that we had to dimple one header tube to provide clearance for the rack input. We were lucky that's all that was necessary. A manufacturer can't anticipate every possible header and clutch combination. We suspect our predicament would have been far more difficult if our engine had shorty headers. We were a little concerned about clearance for the clutch shaft initially, but the steering-connection shaft cleared the cross-shaft with plenty of room to spare.  29 The next step is to install...  29 The next step is to install both of the universal joints needed for the connection between the steering wheel and steering rack. This one is splined to accept the rack input shaft while the others were designed with flat-sided circles to fit the furnished shafts. Each U-joint has two set screws at either end, and when the final assembly was made, they were secured with a thread-locking compound such as Loctite.  30 Here, the crucial measurement...  30 Here, the crucial measurement is made for the connecting shaft. The instructions specify that the shaft must extend into the U-joints for a distance of one inch, all the way up to the shoulder of the U-joint, but no further. While using a shaft cut too long would cause binding, we want the maximum connecting distance. Our measurement is exactly 3-3/4 inches.  31 Using the provided stock,...  31 Using the provided stock, make the measurement mark using a laundry marker, and secure the shaft in a bench vise. We fitted a circular saw with a carbide cut-off blade which made short work of the job.  32 In order to install the...  32 In order to install the connecting shaft, we had to slide the steering column back a little, and the new piece fit right in. Here, the Allen-set screws are tightened.  33 With the final connection...  33 With the final connection made, the steering column is permanently installed at the column base and underneath the dash. All steering rack fasteners underneath the car are also tightened for the final time.  34 Take a look at our final...  34 Take a look at our final column-to-rack connection. It's a slick-looking and bulletproof arrangement that clears everything nicely.  35 Mount the KRC power-steering...  35 Mount the KRC power-steering pump to the engine using the supplied bracket and spacers. Since our car is a no-option strippo, the pulleys are all single-groove. We're probably going to switch to double-groove pulleys, since we don't want to run the alternator, water pump, and power-steering pump off one belt.  36 Included in the kit are...  36 Included in the kit are these top-quality lines which can be assembled at home without special crimping tools. There's no need to visit an air-conditioning shop or other hydraulic-hose shop to get the system up and running. The main concern regarding the lines is cleanliness. Any foreign matter such as rubber particles or dirt will destroy the pump in short order. TC recommends cleaning them with a rifle bore brush, followed by soap and water, and compressed air.  37 Our car had plenty of...  37 Our car had plenty of space available for mounting the power-steering fluid reservoir. Select a location above the pump. Be sure the reservoir is filled before firing the engine. Running the pump dry for even a short time will damage it.
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