|
|
Total Control's New Coilover KitUpdate your vintage Ford's front end with Total Control's new coilover kit From the September, 2005 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Wayne Cook Photography by Wayne Cook
|
|
Hot Rod Rob is one of our cohorts here at the office, and he's got a good-looking '65 Mustang hardtop. After a couple years work, it's got a straight body with nice paint and a fresh rebuild on the 289 V-8 underhood. Rob's been thinking about trying his car out on a road course, but the steering isn't as precise as he would like it to be. Even though the hardtop has had a recent alignment and new radial tires, the car wanders at speed. The steering has a loose feel with a large on center spot, as well. When these factors are combined with the OE-style power steering, the result is not confidence inspiring at high speeds. While the front end of Rob's car is in fair shape, he's decided to go with a new front suspension from Total Control (TC). TC is a division of Chris Alston Chassis Works, and under their new direction a whole array of vintage Mustang suspension products are offered. Rob has chosen to go with the Total Control coilover front suspension kit (PN TCP FCOC-FD, $2,200, for '64-'70 Mustangs, '60-'65 Falcons, Comets, Rancheros, and '66-'67 Fairlanes and Rancheros). With its tubular upper-and-lower control arms and coilover shock arrangement, the new suspension is a significant departure from the original equipment, yet all of the stock mounting points are used. There's virtually no cutting, welding, or modification to the car. A template is included in the kit for the lowering of the upper control arms, but Rob decided not to lower them at this time. However, he hasn't ruled it out as a future modification. He wants to experiment with his car using the new suspension setup all by itself, and then continue with his modifications as he goes along. Such future improvements might include the upper control arm drop, a rack-and-pinion steering installation, and bigger tires and brakes. Let's look at the Total Control coilover suspension kit, and then we'll look in on the installation at Marlo's Frame and Alignment in Chatsworth, California.  Here are the new upper-and-lower...  Here are the new upper-and-lower control arms from Total Control. Built according to Total Control's original design, they are constructed of TIG-welded tubular steel. They offer greatly reduced deflection and improved ball-joint angles, while the unique adjustment couplers allow precise setting of both caster and camber. Because shims are not used to align the front end, the control-arm pivot shaft remains in full contact with the shock tower, further strengthening the suspension. The use of spherical ends in locations where the factory uses a rubber bushing eliminates unwanted deflection and movement at these crucial attachment points.  Because machined aluminum...  Because machined aluminum ends are used out front instead of rubber bushings, these Total Control strut rods will manage fore and aft positioning of the lower control arm with much more precision than the stock component. This rigid positioning of the lower arm helps maintain accurate alignment and, hence, more precise handling. The caster angle of the front end won't change due to compression of the strut rod bushings, and we're confident this will help address the wandering tendency Rob's car has at freeway speeds. Another benefit of the solid strut rod connection is the strut rod bushing compression that occurs under hard braking is eliminated.  This photo shows the main...  This photo shows the main components for the coilover conversion. Nearly every aspect of the system is adjustable to suit your application or style of driving. Caster, camber, spring preload, spring rate, and shock dampening levels can be changed to suit a mild street-driven car or a full on road-course warrior. The shock has a 16-step adjustment, which allows separate control of both compression and rebound dampening. The Vari-Shock coilover shock absorber is made from 6061 billet aluminum and is completely rebuildable.  We've checked over the front...  We've checked over the front end in the '65 coupe and begin the disassembly with the removal of the shock absorbers. Once undone at the spring perch, they can be removed through the top of the tower (as shown here). We're going to hold on to our stock components. the shocks, along with their upper retaining brackets, will go into the storage box.  Up inside the wheelhouse,...  Up inside the wheelhouse, the shock tower outside panel is removed for coil spring access. Next, a spring compressor tool is installed inside the coil spring, dropping it in through the top of the shock tower.  With the spring compressor...  With the spring compressor in place, the tool is tightened down by hand to compress the spring. Don't use an air tool because you don't want the compressor jumping around inside the spring during tightening. When the spring is sufficiently compressed, it can easily be removed from the car.  Since we don't want to have...  Since we don't want to have to bleed the brakes, the brake lines are left undisturbed as the caliper is removed from the rotor. Once the caliper is free, it will be carefully hung inside the wheelhouse. Be sure the caliper can't fall or pull on the brake line.  Here the ball joints are being...  Here the ball joints are being undone from the spindle eyes. The compressed air pickle fork makes short work of the task, which can be an ordeal when done by hand. Be sure to have the castle nuts loosened but still on the threads, so the heavy spindle and rotor assembly doesn't fall when the ball joints pop loose. If you don't have access to air tools, you can separate the ball joint with a couple of solid hits with a hammer on the spindle "eye" where the ball joint is seated.  The tie-rod ends were disconnected...  The tie-rod ends were disconnected at the spindle steering arm; we were careful not to damage the grease boots. the whole spindle and rotor assembly is removed from the car (shown here).  The lower control arms are...  The lower control arms are removed. The overall condition of this car is good, and we're glad to see the lower control arm attachment points aren't bent, elongated, or otherwise mangled.  For our last step in the disassembly,...  For our last step in the disassembly, the OE-style upper control arms are removed. It's easy to see the imprint left by the alignment shims on the inside of the shock tower. With the new arrangement there won't be any shims; as a result the control arm pivot shaft will rest flush up against the inside of the tower with the alignment adjustments taking place elsewhere.  We begin assembly of the Total...  We begin assembly of the Total Control hardware with the strut rods. First, spherical ends are installed into the tube ends; then the machined aluminum pad (shown here) is installed onto the rod end. Normally there would be two fat rubber bushings located here. At the other end of the rods, the flat end plates are installed ready to be mated to the lower control arm.  Marlon decided it would be...  Marlon decided it would be easiest to pre-assemble the strut rods to the lower control arms before installing these parts onto the car. Here, the machined steel blocks, which are threaded to receive both the strut rod fasteners and the lower shock mount fasteners, are checked for correct orientation on the control arm.  With the threaded block oriented...  With the threaded block oriented in the same position, the strut rod plate is carefully sandwiched in between the block and the control arm, and attached into place using the supplied fasteners going in through the bottom of the control arm.  With the strut rod attached,...  With the strut rod attached, the lower shock absorber mount is installed onto the top of the control arm. This suspension differs from the factory arrangement because the spring and shock absorber load are transferred to the lower control arm instead of the upper arm.  It is time to prepare our...  It is time to prepare our coilover shocks for installation onto the car. This threaded ring will ride the threaded shock absorber body down to the desired position and provide the lower seat for the coil spring. Raising or lowering the ring along its travel over the shock body can adjust ride height and spring rate.  The new coil spring is lowered...  The new coil spring is lowered into place over the body of the shock absorber. Don't let the diminutive size of the spring fool you; these coils are more than strong enough to carry the weight of the car.  Next the upper ring is installed...  Next the upper ring is installed onto the assembly. This ring serves as the coil spring upper mount and seats against the top shock mount. Everything fits together with great precision.  Here's the assembled coilover...  Here's the assembled coilover shock absorber unit. Two types of adjustment are apparent in this photo. The spring rate and ride height adjustments are accomplished by rotating the spring-seat ring. The two knobs visible at the bottom of the shock provide for adjustment to both the compression and rebound strokes of the shock.  A quick check showed it was...  A quick check showed it was necessary to slightly open up the holes in the top of the shock tower. The new fasteners are a little larger, so only a small amount of work with the die grinder was required.  With the fasteners in place,...  With the fasteners in place, the new upper shock absorber bracket is lowered into position. Perhaps we should say upper suspension bracket since this part now carries the whole suspension load from the front wheel.  Because the upper bracket...  Because the upper bracket carries so much load, this lower plate is installed on the bottom side of the opening, sandwiching the shock tower roof in between. You wouldn't want all of the force from the vehicle front-end weight riding on just the nuts and washers, which could easily pull through the thin metal of the shock tower roof.  The Total Control upper control...  The Total Control upper control arm goes into place. Although we chose not to lower the arm location at this time, we may yet do so. If we do change the upper control arm location with a 1-inch drop, the Total Control arms have revised ball joint angles that will prevent any binding during the suspension travel. This binding can be a problem when lowering using the stock arms and relocated mounting holes.  Now the lower arm and strut...  Now the lower arm and strut rod assembly is raised into position underneath the car. Here, the solid aluminum pads attach to their mounting points. The machined shoulder on the face of the pad fits the opening in the mounting surface exactly.  While a helper holds the lower...  While a helper holds the lower control arm assembly in place, you can secure the fastener into position. The control arm attachment fasteners have nylon collars present inside the nuts, making the use of lock washers unnecessary.  With both control arms attached,...  With both control arms attached, the coilover shock assembly can now be installed. Here the unit is held in place, while the upper attachment bolt is installed.  Next, the lower arm is connected...  Next, the lower arm is connected to the coilover assembly, and the fasteners are tightened both top and bottom.  The spindle and rotor assembly...  The spindle and rotor assembly goes back into place, and new cotter keys are installed. The tie rods for the steering linkage are reinstalled onto the spindle steering arms.  With everything else squared...  With everything else squared away, the disc brake caliper can be put back into place. Since we didn't disturb the brake lines, there's no need to bleed the brakes; they are ready to go.  Here's our completed installation....  Here's our completed installation. Marlon put a careful alignment on the Mustang front end, and a test drive brought out lots of smiles. Smooth, concise steering and good high-speed tracking are the result. We're looking forward to seeing what Rob has planned next for his cool '65 hardtop.
|
|
|