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Heidt's Pro G Front Suspension - Canyon Carver! Part 1Front Suspension Upgrade From the May, 2012 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Jim Smart Photography by Jim Smart
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Mustang has always been a sporty car, however, it has never been a real sports car. Strip away its sexy sheetmetal, bucket seats, snappy V-8 power, floor shift, and that short deck/long nose persona and it's still a Falcon platform short on testosterone. It was shear economics and the drive of one heck of a product planning team that brought us an affordable and fun Mustang to begin with 48 years ago. It was also economics that brought us all of the Mustang's obvious shortcomings--one being possibly one of the worst suspension systems in Detroit history. This shortcoming wasn't unique to Ford by the way. The '62-'65 Chevy II had shock towers with coil springs over the upper control arms as well, which is undoubtedly why GM went to a cool bolt-on front subframe suspension system on these popular compacts in '66, which was later applied to Camaro and Firebird. It was a more conventional suspension that made these mainstream pony cars better handlers. Depending on your budget, there's a lot you can do with a classic Mustang's existing suspension to help it spank Corvettes and Camaros if you've also got the power to push this Pony through the twisties. Carroll Shelby proved this in SCCA B-Production competition in the mid-1960s. However, isn't it time you treated yourself to something loftier than outdated economy car technology from the 1960s? What made Chevy II, and later Camaro and Firebird, better cars was a new bolt-on front subframe with coil springs-and-shocks-between-the-arms technology. And this is what Heidts Hot Rod & Muscle Car Parts had in mind when it began developing its Pro-G suspension system for vintage muscle cars. The Heidts Pro-G package for Mustang and other vintage Fords is true Pro Touring at its best, yielding incredible cornering and flat-on-the-firmament handling. Gary Heidt founded Heidts Hot Rod & Muscle Car Parts 27 years ago because he believed there was a better way to do street rod suspension systems and so it went. The Heidts Pro-G system is not a Saturday afternoon project by any means, but instead, a classic Mustang platform frontal lobotomy. The Pro-G is major surgery for vintage Mustangs, Falcons, Comets, and Fairlanes because it completely changes the way these cars handle. Order this system, gut your Mustang's underpinnings, and forget everything you know about classic Mustang handling because you're in for an all-new driving experience. Next month, we're going to thrust this screaming yellow Stang-Aholics test mule into the 21st century with the Heidts Pro-G independent rear suspension and do a little road work.  1 The Heidts Pro-G front...  1 The Heidts Pro-G front suspension system, priced at $4,350, includes a two-piece weld-on front subframe that becomes an integral part of your Mustang's unit body. This suspension system includes fully adjustable tubular upper and lower control arms with Heim joints, 2-inch-drop spindles, power rack-and-pinion steering, billet coilover shocks, 11-inch four-piston disc brakes, and inner fender panels to replace those shock towers.  2 This fully adjustable antisway...  2 This fully adjustable antisway bar is optional, but is an integral part of the Pro-G handling experience. Priced at $549, this 1-1/4-inch telephone pole enables you to fine-tune handling in a matter of minutes.  3 Rack-and-pinion steering...  3 Rack-and-pinion steering from Heidts and Stang-Aholics eliminates that broomstick in a barrel worm and sector steering enabling you to precision steer like never before. And because the Heidts rack is power assisted, hydraulics do the work while you focus on real driving.  4 Although 11-inch four-piston...  4 Although 11-inch four-piston disc brakes are standard with Pro-G, optional 12- and 13-inch Wilwoods are available at extra cost. Wilwoods have drilled and slotted rotors, which are very effective. Opt for four-piston/12-inch or six-piston/13-inch Wilwoods and get real braking performance.  5 The Pro-G suspension system...  5 The Pro-G suspension system isn't a Saturday afternoon bolt on, but instead an extensive project for those with time and fabrication skills. The Mustang's front framerails are little more than reinforced sheetmetal boxes from the factory, which is why Heidts includes heavy steel plating, which must be welded to existing rails. Once shock towers are removed and surfaces cleaned up, reinforcement plating is welded in place. Heidts wants you to measure carefully and do it at least twice. Once you've welded all this heavy stock, there is no turning back. While you're at it, consider the installation of torque boxes for further chassis stiffening.  6 Reinforcement plates are...  6 Reinforcement plates are clamped into place to get us started.  7a Ron Peter of Stang-Aholics...  7a Ron Peter of Stang-Aholics stresses extreme attention to detail, which is why he uses brazing rod and a tape measure to get reinforcement plates spot on.  7b He measures from the radiator...  7b He measures from the radiator support bottom crossmember aft to exactly 24-1/4 inches along the framerail to determine where all reinforcement plating ends.  8a Reinforcement plating...  8a Reinforcement plating has been welded in place and ground smooth. We're ready for the Heidts two-piece crossmember, which must be carefully positioned, checked, and rechecked before welding.  8b As you can see, the main...  8b As you can see, the main crossmember is marked, as is the framerail. Welding doesn't happen until all measurements are taken and repeatedly checked. This is no time to get in a hurry.  9 With the main crossmember...  9 With the main crossmember clamped in place, Ron checks for a level surface with this magnetic angle finder. Of course this makes sense if the body is level and you have a perfect surface.  10 Ron checks crossmember...  10 Ron checks crossmember measurements from four corners. This approach offers an accurate assessment of crossmember positioning. You must have a straight unit body for this to be taken seriously, which means factory body measurements must be true to mark before you get started.  11 Coilover top shock brackets...  11 Coilover top shock brackets are welded in a few spots for security. Permanent welding doesn't happen until all mock-up work is complete. Ron has point welded to secure the crossmember, however, he will check measurements again before final welding. It's easier to cut small welds than it is to cut long ones. Welding in small segments like this also prevents distortion from heat.  12 The front crossmember...  12 The front crossmember is positioned and checked for level before being bolted to the main crossmember. Again, is your body level with the horizon?  13 The main crossmember has...  13 The main crossmember has a companion, a forward crossmember, which completes the Pro-G subframe package. The best strategy, according to Ron, is to get the main crossmember partially welded in place, take measurements again, and bolt the front crossmember to the main crossmember. If you've measured properly and you have a straight platform to begin with, the front crossmember should be flush and ready for welding.  14a With both crossmembers...  14a With both crossmembers partially welded for security, Ron does a mock-up with all of the Heidts suspension components.  14b Although it looks like...  14b Although it looks like we're doing complete assembly, this is only mock-up phase to check for proper fit. Then, it's all disassembled, completely welded, primed, and painted.  15 The adjustable billet...  15 The adjustable billet coilover shocks arrive from Heidts unassembled. Ron has assembled and adjusted them for mock-up purposes.  16 The upper control arms...  16 The upper control arms are installed and checked for fit. Keep in mind this will all get disassembled and painted. You can have these pieces powdercoated for outstanding aesthetics or paint them yourself. Wash them with solvent and metal prep (acid etch) before primer and paint. You've got to admit, this is advanced Mustangdom with adjustable Heim joints and ways to tweak front-end alignment like you've never had before. You can throw those pesky alignment shims in the trash now.  17 Heidts 2-inch-drop spindles...  17 Heidts 2-inch-drop spindles are installed next, tied to the upper and lower ball joints. Because this is mock-up phase, nothing gets cotter pins. However, when it's time for final assembly, never walk away to take a break. Tighten all castle nuts completely and install all cotter pins properly before walking away. This minimizes any chance of forgetting to tighten everything.  18 Ron has decided to go...  18 Ron has decided to go with the optional Wilwood 12-inch rotors with black four-piston calipers. This is the caliper support bracket. Ron uses Loctite 271 thread locker and torques these bolts to 140 ft-lb. The bottom bolt is torqued to 85 ft-lb.  19 We have all kinds of convenient...  19 We have all kinds of convenient tools for packing wheel bearings, but here's the real deal according to Ron Peter. Bearings should be washed in petroleum-based solvent and allowed to dry. Then, don some gloves and pack these puppies by hand, as shown. Massage these bearings until they're buried in high-temperature wheel-bearing grease. Coat the races with grease, but not the spindles. Bearings should sit on spindles with mounting surfaces dry.  20 Once the bearings are...  20 Once the bearings are packed and installed, the seal is installed dry, then lubed. Here, the rotors have already been assembled.  21 There are a lot of schools...  21 There are a lot of schools of thought on how to install and torque bearings. A good rule of thumb is to seat the rotor and inboard bearing, then, insert the outboard bearing and spin the rotor. This seats the bearings and gives you some idea on fitment. If you can feel any resistance or rumbling, give your installation another look.  22 The spindle nut should...  22 The spindle nut should be tightened while the rotor is being turned to both seat the bearings and distribute the grease. Tighten this nut to 25 ft-lb while turning the rotor, then, back off 1/2 turn and tighten again to 10-15 in-lb (that's inch-pounds) and feel for binding. Back the nut far enough to get the cotter pin installed. Make sure the cotter pin clears the dust cap.  23 The Wilwood caliper is...  23 The Wilwood caliper is installed while checking rotor-to-caliper clearances. You want equal clearance on both sides. Shims can be used to get the caliper properly centered.  24a Brake pads are included...  24a Brake pads are included in the Wilwood kit.  24b They drop right in and...  24b They drop right in and are secured with this lengthy cotter pin.  25 Ron installs the Heidts...  25 Ron installs the Heidts steering rack, which is straightforward to secure using U-bolts included in the kit. Ron will need to determine how to route hydraulic lines once the engine is reinstalled.  26 Steering rack tie-rod...  26 Steering rack tie-rod ends are next. Where this gets tricky is getting the tie-rod ends correctly threaded to where you get toe in the neighborhood of alignment specifications. It's actually easier to do rack-and-pinion tie-rod ends than it is worm and sector steering. The main thing is to get the steering wheel and shaft at 12 o'clock with the rack centered and start there. The wheels should be as close to straight ahead as possible.  27 This 1-1/4-inch antisway...  27 This 1-1/4-inch antisway bar is extra, but a worthwhile option because we can't imagine Pro-G without it. Ron lubes the urethane bushings and mounts the bar.  28 Sway bar endlinks can...  28 Sway bar endlinks can be tricky to set up and adjust. Heidts makes it easy via detailed instructions. First, you do a static adjustment to get started. Then, via road testing, you make adjustments.  29 You can set just about...  29 You can set just about any type of engine on this subframe thanks to a variety of mounting brackets from Heidts. This mount is for a small-block Ford.  30 The completed mock-up...  30 The completed mock-up should look like this. Once you have installed the Heidts Pro-G, you won't be able to imagine driving your Mustang with anything less. The Pro-G is a world-class racing suspension package you can use on the street because it's solid and sure-footed. Ron admits to feeling addicted to the drive. So will you.  31 A bird's eye view of our...  31 A bird's eye view of our Heidts steering rack and subframe. Once installed, you have a blank sheet of paper where anything's possible.  32 These inner fender panels...  32 These inner fender panels fit perfectly and, once painted, look like a factory installation. You can bolt them in or weld. The choice is yours.
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