If you recall from our second...
If you recall from our second installment of TCP upgrades where we installed TCP's coilover suspension, the shock towers and stamped-steel export brace were removed in that story. But for those just tuning in or only installing the shock tower bracing system, you'll need to remove your upper shock-mounting bolts, shock mounts, and the four large bolts at the firewall.
Bolting an upgraded suspension to your early Ford isn't going to help things much if your chassis is flexing all over the place. The suspension needs a firm foundation to work off of, otherwise the suspension's movement transfers directly to the flexing chassis. Instead of a better handling car, you get a ride that is unpredictable in the corners and twitchy over anything but perfect roads. (And when was the last time you saw a perfectly paved road? We thought so.) We've actually raised early Mustangs with a floor jack in the front and have measured shock tower deflection. This is why Ford installed simple stamped-steel braces from the shock towers to the firewall in the first place. But spirited driving needs more supportive solutions, which is why the export brace and Monte Carlo bar were used more than four decades ago and continue to be a popular upgrade today. Now Total Control Products (TCP) has gone a few steps further in updating the classic chassis-stiffening devices, making them stronger, tying them together, and making them adjustable too.
TCP begins by whittling its mounting brackets, clamps, and other small items from 6061-T6 1/4-inch aluminum stock for the utmost strength, while offering a lighter weight system. The aluminum is also clear anodized to resist corrosion and give the system a long-lasting, great look. All bracing is made from 6061-T6 tubular aluminum utilizing swaged ends for strength in threaded mounting areas. The system can be installed in stages, with the main tower export brace being the basis of which the other optional bracing ties into. There's an optional Monte Carlo brace, and a pair of forward triangulation truss braces as well. Every tubular bar in each of the three kits is threaded for rod ends, making the whole system adjustable for easy installation. We'll be installing all three parts of the TCP shock tower bracing system on TCP's '65 Mustang coupe here, but the system is available for '65-'70 Mustang, '67-'70 Cougar, and '60-'65 Falcon models as well.
Export Brace Installation
The first part of the tower...
The first part of the tower bracing system to be installed will be the firewall support. The aluminum brace is secured using the kit's 1-inch-long, 3/8-inch button-head bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Just snug these for now, as you'll have more fasteners to install through the firewall.
Using the mounted bracket...
Using the mounted bracket as a drill guide, drill three 3/8-inch holes through the firewall where indicated. Be sure to temporarily relocate any wiring or insulation on the back side of the firewall so the drill bit doesn't damage anything.
Using the supplied 1-1/4-inch-long...
Using the supplied 1-1/4-inch-long button-head bolts with flat washers and locknuts, secure the bracket to the firewall with the included backing plate as shown here. Tighten these bolts to 30 ft-lb, and then go back and tighten the four bolts installed previously to 30 ft-lb as well.
If you have a stock-type suspension,...
If you have a stock-type suspension, you'll reuse the shock mounting bracket studs as shown. Simply slip the shock tower plate over the studs, and then secure the shock mounting bracket on top with the original nuts.
If you have the TCP or other...
If you have the TCP or other coilover front suspension installed, the shock tower plate will mount with the coilover upper mounting bracket's hardware, as seen here. If you want to lower ride height a bit, you can sandwich the shock tower plate between the shock tower and the coilover mount, lowering the car 1/4-inch farther.
Unpack the two tubular braces...
Unpack the two tubular braces and the four rod ends from the kit. Apply a light coat of antiseize to the threads on all four rod ends and then thread a rod end into each end of the tubular braces. The rod ends with the zinc jamb nuts are lefthand threaded and they will thread into the end of the tube with the knurling, indicating the lefthand-threaded end.
Secure the lefthand-threaded...
Secure the lefthand-threaded rod end to the firewall bracket. Ensure the rod end mounts under the bracket, as shown, and then secure with a 1-inch-long, 3/8-inch button-head bolt and lock nut at 30 ft-lb. Repeat for the opposite side.
Adjust the overall length...
Adjust the overall length by holding the unsecured rod end and rotating the tubular brace, maintaining equal thread engagement at both ends of the brace. Secure the rod end to the shock tower plate with a 1-3/4-inch-long, 3/8-inch button-head bolt and locknut. Note the rod end goes on the top of the plate and that the tapered spacer is used at this end of the tubular brace. Tighten to 30 ft-lb and then repeat for the opposite side.
Finally, check to ensure the...
Finally, check to ensure the tubular brace and rod ends are free to rotate and that there's no preload on the braces and then tighten the rod end jam nuts to 30 ft-lb.
Monte Carlo Bar Installation
The Monte Carlo bar installation...
The Monte Carlo bar installation requires drilling mounting holes in the inner fender panels. Measure 12-1/2 inches rearward from the lip of the radiator core support and center the bracket's 1/2-inch mounting hole on this measurement. You can fudge the measurement a little to clear any engine accessories if need be. Mark the two mounting holes and drill 1/8-inch pilot holes to start.
Place the steel backing plate...
Place the steel backing plate on the back side of the fender and double check that the pilot holes are centered before going further. Adjust the pilot holes as needed.
Use a 3/8-inch drill bit to...
Use a 3/8-inch drill bit to finish drilling the mounting holes.
Install the Monte Carlo bar...
Install the Monte Carlo bar bracket to the fender using the steel backing plate and the included 3/8-inch button-head bolts, washers, and locknuts. Tighten the hardware to 30 ft-lb and ensure the aluminum bracket is square to the top of the inner fender.
Layer the top of the inner...
Layer the top of the inner fender with masking or painter's tape directly over the bracket, as shown. This will help to prevent any paint chipping when drilling from the back side.
Using the steel backing plate...
Using the steel backing plate as a guide, drill the two horizontal bolt holes out with a 3/8-inch drill bit from the back side of the inner fender.
Install the two remaining...
Install the two remaining 3/8-inch button-head bolts in the top two holes and tighten to 30 ft-lb each. The completed installation will look like this. Repeat the mounting steps for the driver-side bracket.
Since we're also installing...
Since we're also installing the forward truss braces with our project, we went ahead and slid the tube clamps onto the Monte Carlo bar at this time to save us the hassle of unbolting it five minutes later to install that phase of the project. We're not lazy, we're smart thinkers. Yeah, that's it!
Thread the rod ends onto the...
Thread the rod ends onto the Monte Carlo bar, remembering that the lefthand-threaded rod end has the zinc jamb nut and the lefthand-thread end of the bar has the knurling. Lightly coat the threads with antiseize as well. Secure one end of the Monte Carlo bar to the inner fender bracket using the supplied 1-3/4-inch-long, 1/2-inch bolt and locknut as shown to 40 ft-lb.
Like the export brace, the...
Like the export brace, the Monte Carlo bar requires adjusting to fit between the mounting brackets. Hold the loose rod end to prevent it from rotating and then rotate the tubular bar until the mounting hole lines up and secure with the remaining 1/2-inch bolt and locknut.
Once the Monte Carlo bar is...
Once the Monte Carlo bar is secured, ensure the rod end thread engagement is equal on both ends and then tighten the jamb nuts to lock the adjustment in.
Project Cost
In keeping with our first story that we published in our Jan. '11 issue, we're tracking the total cost of this Mustang's suspension and braking upgrades. To date, the investment has been $11,736 for the power rack-and-pinion conversion and associated options/upgrades along with our February issue's coilover front suspension addition and our March issue's coilover rear suspension. This month we add on our shock tower brace package:
| Product | Part Number | Cost |
| TCP Mustang Tower Brace Package | TCP PKG-TWRB-01 | $459 |
| Previous Total | $11,736 |
| Total | $12,195 |
The truss braces can be considered...
The truss braces can be considered shorter versions of the export braces. Apply a light coating of antiseize and thread the rod ends into the tube ends as before, being mindful of the lefthand threads.
Bolt the righthand-threaded...
Bolt the righthand-threaded end (the end without the knurling) to the shock tower plate with a 1-inch-long, 3/8-inch button-head bolt and locknut. Tighten to 30 ft-lb. Repeat for the other side.
If you need clearance for...
If you need clearance for valve covers or other engine accessories, you can use the optional TWRB-06 misalignment kit, which includes a tapered spacer and longer hardware, to gain the needed room.
Mount the opposite end of...
Mount the opposite end of the truss brace to the previously installed tube clamp on the Monte Carlo bar. The rod end goes under the clamp, as shown. Use the included 1-3/4-inch-long, 3/8-inch button-head bolt and locknut to secure the rod end and tighten to 30 ft-lb.
Adjust the truss brace as...
Adjust the truss brace as needed and then tighten the jamb nut to lock it into place. Repeat the installation steps for the opposite side truss brace and you're done.