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TCP g-Link Four-Bar Rear Suspension Install - Bringing Up The RearTotal Control Products' G-Link Four-Bar Goes Hand In Hand With Its Coilover Front Suspension From the March, 2011 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Mark Houlahan Photography by Courtesy Total Control Products
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Our regular readers are tuned into the fact that we've been following the suspension and handling upgrades being installed on this '65 Mustang coupe. For those of you picking us up on the newsstand, or perhaps this is the first issue of your subscription, you might want to pick up the Jan. and Feb. '11 issues through our back issue department so you don't miss out on the complete build-up series we've been following at Total Control Products (TCP). That's right, in the January issue we began the process with the installation of TCP's power rack-and-pinion steering system, which was then followed up in the February issue with the addition of TCP's bolt-on front coilover suspension kit. For this issue, we'll be moving aft and setting up the '65 with TCP's g-Link Four-Bar rear suspension bolted to a Fab9 9-inch housing. Future stories you'll see in upcoming issues include the addition of chassis bracing, disc brakes at all four corners, and more. But this month we'll be concentrating on following the addition of the TCP rear suspension. So why upgrade to the four-link style of rear suspension? For starters, we already have a vastly improved front suspension installed, which works well on its own, but is designed to work even better when complemented with TCP's rear suspension. But more important is the fact we're replacing antiquated leaf spring technology and worn bushings with a state-of-the art four-link setup that has precise movement control of the links via pivot-ball ends. Furthermore, the four-link design utilizes canted upper links, which help locate the axle housing laterally, without the needed expense and installation headache of a Panhard bar. Finally, the coilover shocks allow quick adjustment of jounce and rebound settings at the turn of a knob without having to actually swap out the shocks for those of a different rate. Even the coilover springs themselves are easily changed to a different rate to change ride and handling characteristics, all without changing pinion angle or suspension geometry, something that you can't always do when changing a whole leaf spring out for a different-rate spring. See the install here and judge for yourself. And, of course, tune in next issue for more on our TCP Mustang project.  1 You'll want to take a couple...  1 You'll want to take a couple of base measurements with your Mustang on the ground before you tear into it. This is done for two main reasons---to verify the location of the axle housing and to have a ride height measurement for use when installing the billet lower shock mount later in the project.  2 With the car raised to...  2 With the car raised to a comfortable work height and level side to side, the rear brake lines are disconnected and the driveshaft is unbolted. Place a floor jack under the differential's center and then unbolt the shocks from the body. Remove the front spring eye bolts and rear shackle bolts, and lower the rear suspension assembly down and out from under the car.  3 With the old axle and rear...  3 With the old axle and rear suspension out of the way, inspect the mounting locations where the new four-bar cradle, brackets, and lower links will mount to. Ensure the areas are clean and free of rust, scale, and undercoating. A critical area is around the pinion snubber section of the trunk floor. This area will require welding to reinforce it, especially on high-horsepower applications.  4 The cradle is mounted to...  4 The cradle is mounted to the chassis via rear framerail brackets and at the pinion snubber mount. The framerail brackets will be welded to the rails, so be sure to grind or sand off any of the zinc coating where the brackets will be welded to the frame. Loosely install the framerail brackets to the cradle and then position the cradle and install the mounting hardware at the snubber location.  5 Secure the framerail brackets...  5 Secure the framerail brackets to the framerail with C-clamp pliers. Check to ensure the cradle is square with the chassis by measuring both sides to a fixed reference point and adjust as necessary. Once the cradle is squared and the framerail brackets are fitted flush to the framerails, you can tighten the bracket's mounting hardware.  6 Using a marker, trace the...  6 Using a marker, trace the framerail bracket outline onto the framerails. Then use a scratch-awl or scribe to mark the hole locations on the framerails as well. Finally, carefully unclamp and unbolt the cradle and set it aside so the mounting holes can be drilled out with a 3/8-inch drill bit. Minor filing will be required to get the hole sizes to match the holes in the brackets.  7 The use of a sanding wheel...  7 The use of a sanding wheel or fiber disc will be required to clean the framerail area of dirt and rust. You want a clean, bare metal surface along the marked outline for welding.  8 Reinstall the cradle and...  8 Reinstall the cradle and framerail brackets using the pinion snubber hardware and C-clamps, as before. There are two mounting ears that utilize the OE upper shock mounting points. Shims are included in the kit to minimize the gap between these mounting ears and the chassis, and then a 2-inch-long bolt is used to secure the cradle on each side. A helper will need to get inside the car to secure the bolts with the included kit washers and locknuts.  9 Install the kit-supplied...  9 Install the kit-supplied U-bolts through the frame and secure the framerail bracket with washers and lock nuts. Torque to 30 ft-lb each. Finally, tack weld the bracket to the frame, following up with full 1-inch-long stitch welds around the bracket's perimeter.  10 The TCP four-bar system...  10 The TCP four-bar system is compatible with stock 8-inch and 9-inch axle housings if you already have a built-up rearend in your car.  The lower links bolt to the...  The lower links bolt to the factory spring perches and the upper link mounts are welded to your housing with the aid of a weld fixture provided by TCP. For this build, we opted to replace the stock open diff 8-inch with one of TCP's Fab9 9-inch housings, which come pre-welded and set up for the antisway bar of your choice.  11 Position the rear axle...  11 Position the rear axle housing on stands under the car in preparation for installation. Begin the installation by setting the upper link length at 9-1/2 inches (center to center), and attach the fixed end to the cradle's mounting locations. Follow that with the adjustable end at the axle housing, ensuring the grease fittings are pointing up for future access. Do not fully tighten at this time.  12 The lower billet links...  12 The lower billet links use the same billet and nylon pivot assemblies as our front control arms installed last month for precise handling and control.  13 The lower links are installed...  13 The lower links are installed between the original leaf spring mount on the chassis and the adjustable link mount on the rear axle. For now, we'll use the second hole from the bottom for setup purposes. Again, don't tighten the bolts completely yet and ensure the grease fittings are pointing down this time.  14 Remember those measurements...  14 Remember those measurements we took at the beginning of the story? Well this is where they come back into play. The axle housing is raised to the original measurement taken, and then the billet lower shock mount is installed, leaving the bottom-most hole open on the bracket, as shown.  15 To complement the VariShock...  15 To complement the VariShock QuickSet 2 shocks used in our front suspension install, we upgraded the rear coilover shocks to the same QuickSet 2 setup as well.  16 Using the included spherical...  16 Using the included spherical spacers mount the shocks to the billet lower shock mount and the cradle. You'll note there are no coil springs in place at this time. The removal of the springs makes it much easier to check for suspension bind when cycling the suspension.  17 To complement the new...  17 To complement the new four-bar setup, TCP offers both a slide-link antisway bar and a splined-end antisway bar. We opted for the latter, but whichever you choose, be sure to do so at the time of your suspension order, as the type of bar will determine the type of mounting bracket on the suspension or Fab9 housing.  18 The billet bar ends require...  18 The billet bar ends require assembly to the main antisway bar. Follow the directions to clock the antisway bar correctly for axle housing clearance and then tighten the pinch bolts to secure the ends to the bar.  19 The antisway bar's preload...  19 The antisway bar's preload adjusters are threaded into the axle housing brackets. Be sure the threads are clean and lubricated with antiseize, as the fine threads can be fragile. Once the adjusters are flush with the end of the bracket, you can place the antisway bar between the adjusters and then continue to tighten the adjusters until the bar ends seat into the adjuster bearings. Verify the antisway bar is centered, and then tighten the preload adjusters an additional quarter turn. Secure the adjusters with the included hardware.  20 Assemble the endlink adjusters...  20 Assemble the endlink adjusters per the included instructions and then assemble the adjusters to the antisway bar ends and clevis brackets. Raise the axle to ride height and clamp the clevis brackets to the framerails so they can be outlined with a marker for welding. Like the brackets welded earlier, you will need to clean the framerail and then stitch weld the clevis brackets into place. Finally, secure the endlinks and adjust them to ensure there is no preload on the bar ends.  21 TCP can help you round...  21 TCP can help you round out your project needs with all the gear to get your rearend completed, too, including built center sections, axle kits, brakes, and more. For this '65 coupe, a Strange Pro Iron 9-inch case was stuffed with a Trutrac differential and 3.25 gears to give the car a spirited driving feel without ruining top speed, plus the Trutrac will ensure power is put down by both wheels too.  22 The center section ships...  22 The center section ships complete from TCP to your door after you order it to your specs, so it's a simple matter of placing a fresh gasket over your housing studs and bolting in the new center section. New axles are coming too, but we'll hold off on those for now, as we still have the Wilwood brakes to install first in an upcoming issue.  23 Lastly, after all of our...  23 Lastly, after all of our suspension is set up and cycled to ensure there's no binding, the coil springs are installed onto the QuickSet 2 shocks and placed back on the car. Note here that the Wilwoods are in place, as are the TCP subframe connectors and chassis bracing. We'll get into all of that soon, so stay tuned. Project Cost
In keeping with our first story that we published in our Jan. '11 issue, we're tracking the total cost of this Mustang's suspension and braking upgrades. To date the investment has been $6,249 for the power rack-and-pinion conversion and associated options/upgrades along with our Feb. issue's coilover front suspension addition. This month we add on our rear suspension installation:
| Product | Part Number | Cost |
| TCP g-Link Billet Pivot Ball Suspension | 5813-M10 | $2,339 |
| g-Bar Direct Fit Fab9 Housing | 84M10-701 | $1,089 |
| Strange Pro Iron Case, 3.25 Gears, Trutrac | SE PKG PRF120 | $1,400 |
| Splined-End Tubular Antisway Bar | 5806-M10 | $459 |
| VariShock QuickSet 2 Coilover Shocks | Upgrade | $200 |
| Subtotal | $5,487 |
| Previous Total | $6,249 |
| Total | $11,736 |
 | Ditch Your Ford's Ancient Steering Setup For The Precision Of TCP's Modern Rack-And-Pinion Steering System |  | Smooth Out Your Ride with A Total Control Products' Bolt-In Coilover Front Suspension Kit |
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