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 7 The use of a sanding wheel...  7 The use of a sanding wheel or fiber disc will be required to clean the framerail area of dirt and rust. You want a clean, bare metal surface along the marked outline for welding.  8 Reinstall the cradle and...  8 Reinstall the cradle and framerail brackets using the pinion snubber hardware and C-clamps, as before. There are two mounting ears that utilize the OE upper shock mounting points. Shims are included in the kit to minimize the gap between these mounting ears and the chassis, and then a 2-inch-long bolt is used to secure the cradle on each side. A helper will need to get inside the car to secure the bolts with the included kit washers and locknuts.  9 Install the kit-supplied...  9 Install the kit-supplied U-bolts through the frame and secure the framerail bracket with washers and lock nuts. Torque to 30 ft-lb each. Finally, tack weld the bracket to the frame, following up with full 1-inch-long stitch welds around the bracket's perimeter.  10 The TCP four-bar system...  10 The TCP four-bar system is compatible with stock 8-inch and 9-inch axle housings if you already have a built-up rearend in your car.  The lower links bolt to the...  The lower links bolt to the factory spring perches and the upper link mounts are welded to your housing with the aid of a weld fixture provided by TCP. For this build, we opted to replace the stock open diff 8-inch with one of TCP's Fab9 9-inch housings, which come pre-welded and set up for the antisway bar of your choice.  11 Position the rear axle...  11 Position the rear axle housing on stands under the car in preparation for installation. Begin the installation by setting the upper link length at 9-1/2 inches (center to center), and attach the fixed end to the cradle's mounting locations. Follow that with the adjustable end at the axle housing, ensuring the grease fittings are pointing up for future access. Do not fully tighten at this time.  12 The lower billet links...  12 The lower billet links use the same billet and nylon pivot assemblies as our front control arms installed last month for precise handling and control.  13 The lower links are installed...  13 The lower links are installed between the original leaf spring mount on the chassis and the adjustable link mount on the rear axle. For now, we'll use the second hole from the bottom for setup purposes. Again, don't tighten the bolts completely yet and ensure the grease fittings are pointing down this time.  14 Remember those measurements...  14 Remember those measurements we took at the beginning of the story? Well this is where they come back into play. The axle housing is raised to the original measurement taken, and then the billet lower shock mount is installed, leaving the bottom-most hole open on the bracket, as shown.  15 To complement the VariShock...  15 To complement the VariShock QuickSet 2 shocks used in our front suspension install, we upgraded the rear coilover shocks to the same QuickSet 2 setup as well.  16 Using the included spherical...  16 Using the included spherical spacers mount the shocks to the billet lower shock mount and the cradle. You'll note there are no coil springs in place at this time. The removal of the springs makes it much easier to check for suspension bind when cycling the suspension.  17 To complement the new...  17 To complement the new four-bar setup, TCP offers both a slide-link antisway bar and a splined-end antisway bar. We opted for the latter, but whichever you choose, be sure to do so at the time of your suspension order, as the type of bar will determine the type of mounting bracket on the suspension or Fab9 housing.
 | Ditch Your Ford's Ancient Steering Setup For The Precision Of TCP's Modern Rack-And-Pinion Steering System |  | Smooth Out Your Ride with A Total Control Products' Bolt-In Coilover Front Suspension Kit |
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