Our regular readers are tuned into the fact that we've been following the suspension and handling upgrades being installed on this '65 Mustang coupe. For those of you picking us up on the newsstand, or perhaps this is the first issue of your subscription, you might want to pick up the Jan. and Feb. '11 issues through our back issue department so you don't miss out on the complete build-up series we've been following at Total Control Products (TCP).
That's right, in the January issue we began the process with the installation of TCP's power rack-and-pinion steering system, which was then followed up in the February issue with the addition of TCP's bolt-on front coilover suspension kit. For this issue, we'll be moving aft and setting up the '65 with TCP's g-Link Four-Bar rear suspension bolted to a Fab9 9-inch housing. Future stories you'll see in upcoming issues include the addition of chassis bracing, disc brakes at all four corners, and more. But this month we'll be concentrating on following the addition of the TCP rear suspension.
So why upgrade to the four-link style of rear suspension? For starters, we already have a vastly improved front suspension installed, which works well on its own, but is designed to work even better when complemented with TCP's rear suspension. But more important is the fact we're replacing antiquated leaf spring technology and worn bushings with a state-of-the art four-link setup that has precise movement control of the links via pivot-ball ends. Furthermore, the four-link design utilizes canted upper links, which help locate the axle housing laterally, without the needed expense and installation headache of a Panhard bar.
Finally, the coilover shocks allow quick adjustment of jounce and rebound settings at the turn of a knob without having to actually swap out the shocks for those of a different rate. Even the coilover springs themselves are easily changed to a different rate to change ride and handling characteristics, all without changing pinion angle or suspension geometry, something that you can't always do when changing a whole leaf spring out for a different-rate spring. See the install here and judge for yourself. And, of course, tune in next issue for more on our TCP Mustang project.
1 You'll want to take a couple...
1 You'll want to take a couple of base measurements with your Mustang on the ground before you tear into it. This is done for two main reasons---to verify the location of the axle housing and to have a ride height measurement for use when installing the billet lower shock mount later in the project.
2 With the car raised to...
2 With the car raised to a comfortable work height and level side to side, the rear brake lines are disconnected and the driveshaft is unbolted. Place a floor jack under the differential's center and then unbolt the shocks from the body. Remove the front spring eye bolts and rear shackle bolts, and lower the rear suspension assembly down and out from under the car.
3 With the old axle and rear...
3 With the old axle and rear suspension out of the way, inspect the mounting locations where the new four-bar cradle, brackets, and lower links will mount to. Ensure the areas are clean and free of rust, scale, and undercoating. A critical area is around the pinion snubber section of the trunk floor. This area will require welding to reinforce it, especially on high-horsepower applications.
4 The cradle is mounted to...
4 The cradle is mounted to the chassis via rear framerail brackets and at the pinion snubber mount. The framerail brackets will be welded to the rails, so be sure to grind or sand off any of the zinc coating where the brackets will be welded to the frame. Loosely install the framerail brackets to the cradle and then position the cradle and install the mounting hardware at the snubber location.
5 Secure the framerail brackets...
5 Secure the framerail brackets to the framerail with C-clamp pliers. Check to ensure the cradle is square with the chassis by measuring both sides to a fixed reference point and adjust as necessary. Once the cradle is squared and the framerail brackets are fitted flush to the framerails, you can tighten the bracket's mounting hardware.
6 Using a marker, trace the...
6 Using a marker, trace the framerail bracket outline onto the framerails. Then use a scratch-awl or scribe to mark the hole locations on the framerails as well. Finally, carefully unclamp and unbolt the cradle and set it aside so the mounting holes can be drilled out with a 3/8-inch drill bit. Minor filing will be required to get the hole sizes to match the holes in the brackets.