With a name like Mach 1, you'd think a vehicle would be pretty fast, but we recently found out this was not the case. In looking for a vintage Mustang to perform some budget performance modifications to, we came across Robin Cardinal's '72 Mach 1, which is equipped with a 351 Cleveland and three-speed automatic transmission. Though it looks the part with its sleek bodylines and racy red and black paint scheme, the Mach 1's overall driving experience was pretty lackluster.
We're going to change that though, starting with this issue, as we'll head to restomod central for some upgrades. Mustangs Plus offers everything you might need to get your Mustang to turn faster, stop shorter, and accelerate harder. In this issue, we show you how to perform basic suspension upgrades using Mustang Plus' Super Starter kit, which is a great way to ditch all of those crusty factory suspension parts that lead to lame handling performance.
Our subject Mach 1 is neither...
Our subject Mach 1 is neither nimble, nor peppy, but we're looking to change that. We went to Mustangs Plus for one of its Grab-A-Trak suspension systems, and came away with a whole Super Starter kit to replace most of the aged and failing components.
The Mustangs Plus Super Starter kit is offered for all '65-'73 Mustangs and while each kit contains basically the same parts, Mustangs Plus custom tailors the selection to each vehicle and owner's needs. The Super Starter combines three subsystems into one big package. Included are a spring and handling package, a suspension rebuild package, and a steering upgrade package.
When it's all said and done, your Mustang is filled with new components from top to bottom, and the revised spring rates and mounting options should tighten up handling dynamics, and lower the car about an inch for a lower center of gravity and a more modern and aerodynamic look.
Prices start at $799.95 for the Super Starter kit, and every component is backed by a lifetime guarantee. This list is long, too. Coil springs, leaf springs, shocks, antisway bar, endlinks, upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, adjustment sleeves, strut rod bushings, and much more.
What was probably worse than...
What was probably worse than the body roll was the fact that you couldn't see the inside corner during a spirited turning event. The car simply rolled away from the corner, and the long front end rose like a surfacing submarine until you were completely through the turn. This blocked all hope of seeing most of the turn, let alone the apex, neither of which is safe, nor useful.
We enlisted the help of Robin's husband, Rob, to help us swap out the parts, and taking our time, we were looking at about eight hours for installation, though someone who turns wrenches for a living could probably cut that in half. With the older cars, though, you often find yourself cleaning and painting things before everything goes back together.
To document the changes that we will be making to the Mach 1, we took it to Gainesville Raceway in Gainesville, Florida, where we took advantage of the dragstrip and road course offerings. We'll get to the 'strip numbers at a later date (they were unimpressive as well), but on the road course, the '72 Mach 1 offered lap times of 1:22.05, 1:19.82, and 1:17.42. We also recorded skidpad numbers on the track's 300-foot skidpad. Clockwise, we logged 16.27 seconds and 15.81 seconds, while counterclockwise we saw a 15.86, a 15.31, a 17.82, and a 15.0.
Time to crack off this installation....
Time to crack off this installation. We'll be using good ol' fashion jackstands and a floor jack to get these high-performance parts swapped in.
As you can see from the included images, the Mach 1 rolled over like a Mustang scratching its back, not one looking to win the triple crown. Check out the photos below to see how we plan to remedy that problem, and be sure to check back next month as we finish up the rear suspension and wring the Mach 1 out one more time.
After removing the wheel,...
After removing the wheel, we can get at the upper and lower ball joint and tie rod nuts.
The tie-rod end is first....
The tie-rod end is first. Just like the ball joints, it's secured using a castle nut and a cotter pin.
We'll tackle the antisway...
We'll tackle the antisway bar next by removing the endlinks first, and then the mounts on the frame. We'll be swapping out the factory 3/4-inch bar for the Grab-A-Trak 1-inch bar along with urethane bushings. Mustangs Plus also offers a 1 1/8-inch option as well.
After supporting the lower...
After supporting the lower control arm, we tackle the upper ball joint first. After removing the cotter pin, we back the nut off until it reaches the end of the stud. Since we'll be replacing these as well, we'll be taking the Ford tool, i.e. hammer, to the side of the eyelet on the spindle as well as the nut itself to break the joint loose.
Now is a good time to remove...
Now is a good time to remove the strut rod. You can just unbolt it from the lower control arm for now, or get after the front mount and remove it altogether.
The Limited Edition Monroe...
The Limited Edition Monroe front shocks were in decent working order, but the Grab-A-Track Monroes are specifically matched to the stiffer coil spring package, not to mention they are new and probably have a lot more life left in them. To remove the shock, you'll need to remove the two lower bolts below the coil spring, as well as the top shock nut and the shock perch.