RideTech Air Suspension Install Part 1- Cool Ride

If you'd rather not risk damage to a ball joint or tie-rod end boot, a solid whack with a 5-pound sledge should jar ball joints and tie-rod ends loose.

Brake lines are disconnected next in order to remove the brakes, as well as the spindles. You're going to want a catch pan or jar for stray mineral-based brake fluid, which can damage paint.

With the lower control arm supported, shock removal is next. There are two bottom bolts and a top stud. Remember, the shock absorber keeps your Ford's coil spring compressed. This is why you must carefully support the lower control arm.

The brake assembly and spindle are removed next.

Carefully lower the support jack, which releases the coil spring. Remember, there is a tremendous amount of spring pressure, which can cause injury.

This hole in the lower control arm is your reference point for the RideTech air spring baseplate. Install a 3/8-inch x 1 1/4-inch bolt provided in the kit through this hole and tighten.

Three holes are drilled into the lower control arm to make way for three 3/8-inch x 1 1/4-inch bolts also provided in the kit. Start with a small 1/4-inch pilot hole, then increase to a 3/8-inch hole.

The air spring baseplate is installed as shown, using the four 3/8-inch x 1 1/4-inch Grade 8 bolts provided.

This plate serves as a platform for the RideTech air spring.

This is the air spring upper cup, which mates the air spring with your Ford's coil spring cup. Nylok lock nut fasteners join the air spring and upper cup together.

The stud penetrates your chassis spring cup where the old coil spring was.

The air spring is installed as shown, with the stud visible on top. The stud is then secured with a Nylok lock nut fastener.

The air lines are fed through the top. Make sure the line doesn't interfere with suspension movement or get close to hot exhaust system parts.

The lower control arm with the new RideTech baseplate is installed using a new cross-shaft and bushings. You may also opt for urethane bushings for crisp handling and control.

The air spring is secured to the baseplate with this bolt, which is accessible via the factory shock mount passage.

The complete front air spring installation should look like this. This is a nice, clean installation ready to deliver improved ride quality and handling.

Sway bar endlinks and bushings are installed next. If you really want to tighten up handling, go with urethane endlinks and bushings.

Shock mounts provided in the kit have been welded in place and are ready to go. Wheelhouses must be cut as shown to clear the new upper mounts.

Lower shock mounts, which have been pie-cut to fit, have been welded to the lower control arms.

Here's our front shock installation, which shows the shock relocation. This is the Monroe shock absorber (PN MON33033) that is compatible with RideTech air springs. And yes, we did tighten the upper shock mount bolt.

Here's the three-gallon air tank package, which can be located in your trunk or underneath in a frame pocket. It consists of an air compressor and tank, which keep air shocks and springs inflated via a system of electric solenoid valves operated from inside the cabin.

These solenoids are electrically activated to vector compressed air to each of the air bladders (springs and shocks). They allow compressed air in or out depending upon driver command. They may be located just about anywhere. In this application, they're located behind the rear seat. Make sure nothing metallic touches these terminals.

This is the RideTech air management panel, which can be located just about anywhere within the driver's reach. Power should be switched power, meaning it only has juice with the ignition switch is on or in accessory mode.

It must also be fuse- or circuit-breaker protected. Gauges tell us something about air pressure fore and aft.