Here's the complete Vintage...
Here's the complete Vintage Venom conversion kit for all four wheels. At the bottom of the photo is a set of front caliper-mounting brackets. In the center row are the four wheel-spacer plates to provide the desired offset for the late-model wheels on the early car. Along the top are the rear caliper-mounting brackets, attachment hardware, and the extra length replacement wheel studs from ARP are also shown. If your car already has front disc brakes and you'd like to upgrade the rear axle only, the rear kit is available for $198 and $9.95 shipping. Also note the wheel spacers can be purchased separately as well if you're simply looking to add late-model wheels at this time.
Brake Upgrade
Ask any gathering of classic Ford enthusiasts what's the first upgrade they'd do on their project. They're liable to tell you that a disc brake conversion is at or near the top of the list. Front disc brakes are a huge improvement all by themselves, but a four-wheel disc arrangement is even better. From a standpoint of safety, and also protecting your investment, a disc brake conversion belongs high on the priority list of almost any high-performance classic Ford project. It's no secret that these conversions are possible with the many offerings out there, but they can add up quickly in cost. Now the folks at Vintage Venom offer a brilliant cost cutting solution to the problem because they offer a complete kit that allows you to install SN-95 Cobra or Bullitt four-wheel disc brakes onto your classic Mustang. The 13-inch front rotors require a 17-inch wheel and the Vintage Venom kit includes everything you need to install 17-inch Bullitt, Cobra, or Mach 1 wheels onto your vintage car, including the required longer wheel studs and spacer plates. The complete kit costs just $583 including shipping and handling.
Front Disc Conversion
This...
Front Disc Conversion
This photo shows our used SN-95 Cobra front disc brakes after we had a chance to clean them up. You can score these from any '94-'04 SVT Cobra Mustang. The calipers were cleaned with brake cleaner and equipped with new pads. The rotors were turned to present a fresh surface to the new pads and the rotor centers dressed with Metal Mask. Also shown are the original drum brake front hubs, which were removed earlier from the OE drums. The old wheel studs were discarded and the hubs blasted clean and painted with Metal Mask.
We've seen complete sets of Cobra or Bullitt four-wheel disc-brake hardware on eBay and Craigslist for between three and five hundred dollars. The wheels are also commonly available used starting at around $200 depending on the presence or condition of tires. What this all means is that you can install a four-wheel disc brake set up on your classic Mustang for a little more than $1,000 instead of more than $2,000 and up.
Get the used rotors machined and install new pads into the calipers and you should be in business. More good news is the fact that if you don't want to fuss around with finding used rotors and calipers Vintage Venom now offers the conversion kit complete with brand-new Bullitt calipers and rotors. The cost of the all-inclusive kit is $1,557 plus $90 shipping and handling.
Here's the Cobra rear axle...
Here's the Cobra rear axle brake hardware before cleanup. Like the front equipment, the rotors will be turned and the brake pads replaced. Also in our inventory of used equipment acquired for this project is a set of 17-inch Bullitt Mustang wheels. In front they are sized at 17x8 and shod with Kumho P255/45R17 tires. The rear wheels are aftermarket 17x9s with P285/40R17 Kumho tires. The spacers included with the kit will situate the wheel and tire assembly perfectly with the classic Mustang wheelhouse.
While the installation of the Vintage Venom kit is straightforward, you'll need to be prepared to create some new brake lines, modify parking brake connections, and be able to cut off and press on new bearings. Our project included the installation of a new '94 Cobra master cylinder, which we found locally for $79.95. You'll need to purchase new wheel bearings and seals for both rear axles and several new hard and flexible brake lines.
Vintage Venom has a very informative website to help guide you through the installation process with more than 60 pages of photographs and instructions. Follow along with the crew at KR Performance & Restorations (KRP&R) as we show you the highlights of a Vintage Venom four-wheel disc brake installation on a '68 Mustang coupe it has been preparing for some auto crossing. KRP&R was able to use calipers and rotors from one of its late-model parts cars as well as a set of '01 Bullitt Mustang wheels, keeping costs super-low.
With a little effort you too can find the calipers and rotors required for bargain basement prices from late-model owners who have upgraded, and if the wallet allows it, these parts are also available new from several OE and aftermarket sources.
We've already removed the...
We've already removed the stock drum brakes and pressed the hub out of the drum assembly. Any decent shop manual will help you get your old brake hardware off the car in no time. Once you've pressed out the hub you will have to press the stock studs out as well and enlarge the stud holes. Here the holes for the wheel studs are enlarged to receive the new ARP studs. The diameter of the new stud is 0.625-inch while the holes checked out at 0.605-inch. Carefully enlarge the holes to the desired size using a die grinder and cutting stone. Work on the holes from both sides to create a uniform and untapered enlargement.
Here we see the Vintage Venom...
Here we see the Vintage Venom front caliper adapter plate in place on the bare spindle. The fasteners are furnished and include nylon lock nuts, eliminating the need for split lock washers. The bracket is clearly marked for left and right side so be sure to not get them reversed during installation.
Once the original drum hubs...
Once the original drum hubs have been modified per the instructions, press the longer ARP studs into position in the hub, being certain to seat them fully against the hub flange. If you do not have a press to do this properly it is strongly suggested you take the hubs and studs to your favorite machine shop or well-stocked auto parts store for assembly.
You will reinstall the OE...
You will reinstall the OE hub onto the spindle (as if you were reinstalling the drum) with the new, longer studs in place. Now would be a great time to install new wheel bearings, races, and fresh disc brake spec bearing grease, so be sure to inspect all of the reused hardware and replace as necessary. At the very least, repack your bearings with the proper disc brake grease. A few bucks here now will prevent failures down the road.
Install the rotor onto the...
Install the rotor onto the studs over the spacer plate and secure it with lug nuts tightened to 90 ft-lbs. Now is the time to check the rotor for runout. Use a dial indicator as shown here. Ours checked out at less than 0.005-inch on each side so we were good to go. If the runout is excessive it can sometimes be adjusted by rotating the spacer and rotor to a different position. Mark the rotor and spacer with a punch or a dab of paint to keep them indexed during future servicing.
The supplied spacer is used...
The supplied spacer is used to fit the stock SN-95 wheels in their proper location within the wheelwell. If you plan to use custom-fit/offset wheels, discuss your options with the folks at Vintage Venom to determine if you need to use these spacers or not. Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound to the spacer before installing.
Install the caliper-mounting...
Install the caliper-mounting bracket, and using a feeler gauge, check the gap between the rotor and the bracket on both sides. There should be a minimum of 0.040-inch on each side. If not, you will have to shim the bracket out or grind a little on the bracket to obtain the proper amount of clearance-in our case we were fine. Torque the included bolts to 80 ft-lbs.
Here the caliper is shown...
Here the caliper is shown installed into position. Now the connection between the flex lines on the caliper and the hard lines on the car can be completed. Vintage Venom provides the part number for a new brake line retaining bracket that mounts to the framerail for this juncture. You will also need '99-'04 Mustang front brake hoses. With the front brakes wrapped up, we test fit one of our Bullitt wheels with Kumho tires onto the hub. The large 13-inch rotor fills the opening behind the spokes almost completely. For caliper clearance purposes, a 17-inch wheel is the minimum size required.
Under the hood this was the...
Under the hood this was the landscape at the beginning of the project. The cast iron master cylinder will be replaced with a late-model Cobra master cylinder, which has a 15/16-inch primary bore and is more suited to the four-wheel discs we're installing.
The new Cobra master cylinder...
The new Cobra master cylinder bolts right into place on the firewall. It has an aluminum body with a common plastic reservoir. Installation wasn't difficult but new lines must be fabricated because the master cylinder outlets are metric and located on the engine side of the master cylinder versus the shock tower side, as compared to the original unit.
Rear Disc Conversion
Moving...
Rear Disc Conversion
Moving on to the rear axle, it's a simple matter to remove the drums, brake shoes, and hardware with the help of a shop manual. Using the opening in the axle flange, remove the four nuts holding the axle endplate in position. If the T-bolt spins you'll have to hold it from the back with a set of Vise-Grips while you remove the nut. With the fasteners out of the way, you can remove the axleshaft from the housing. If it's stubborn you may have to use a slide hammer.
With the axle out of the car,...
With the axle out of the car, take it over to the bench and remove the axle bearing and retainer using a cut-off wheel as shown. Take care not to cut into the axle. Cut the axle retainer and bearing down to the axle and then turn the axle over 180 degrees and repeat the process. You will be able to use a chisel and a hammer to break the retainer and bearing. Using the same procedure as for the front hubs, install the new longer wheel studs into both axles.
To assemble the axles with...
To assemble the axles with the new disc brake hardware first place the axle retainer, which will require some minor clearancing of its ID to fit) over the axle, then fit the Vintage Venom bracket next. In this photo, the axle retainer is in place but is hidden under the caliper mounting bracket. Make sure the recessed holes for the caliper face toward the outside of the axle and then press on the bearing and bearing retainer. Make sure everything is in the correct order and oriented correctly before installing the bearing and bearing retainer because a mistake here will require cutting off the new bearings and the purchase of another set. Now is a good time to install new axle seals as well.
With the spacer in place,...
With the spacer in place, the rear rotor can be installed onto the wheel studs. The large 11.65-inch diameter hides the caliper mounting bracket completely.
This photo shows what the...
This photo shows what the finished caliper mounting bracket installation should look like. As shown, the caliper must be oriented so that the caliper mounts toward the rear of the car. Of the four fasteners, one is longer. Install this longer bolt in the upper left position and its extra length will be used to mount the brake flex line bracket. Torque the new fasteners to a value of 40 ft-lbs.
Install the rear disc brake...
Install the rear disc brake caliper into place on the Vintage Venom adapter, ensuring you have the proper caliper for the side of the car you are working on. The bleeder screw should be at the top and the parking brake mechanism at the bottom. Torque the fasteners to a value of 80 ft-lbs.
New '94-'95 Mustang rear flex...
New '94-'95 Mustang rear flex brake lines will be required and Vintage Venom provides kit buyers with all the necessary OE Ford part numbers and application info for you to source these locally. The mounting bracket is modified according to the Vintage Venom instructions to fit the already installed longer mounting bolt previously mentioned. Once the diagonal cut is completed, a new hole is drilled into the shortened bracket. Make a new brake line from the axle's brake line distribution block to each side. A good trick here is to use wire or a coat hanger to mock up your new brake line. Once you are happy with the routing, transfer those bends to the new brake line material and install the new lines on the axle housing.
Install the wheels and make...
Install the wheels and make sure you have adequate rolling clearances for both front and rear. Articulating the suspension while turning the wheels will help determine brake line/hose issues as well. Complete the parking brake connections ('94-'04 parking brake cables required) and completely bleed your braking system and be prepared to enjoy the repeatable fade-free stopping found courtesy of the SN-95 Cobra and Bullitt Mustangs and the Vintage Venom conversion kit.