If you own a six-cylinder Ford or Mercurycompact, you understand what it means to want nice upgrades to make your ride safer and more pleasurable to drive. When we think about increasing driving pleasure, we think about power and infusing more of it into your 144, 170, or 200ci inline-six. Companies like Clifford Performance have been a great help there, offering us high-performance engine parts and kits for these lightweight sixes.
When you hop up a little Ford six, thoughts are eventually bound to turn to how to stop the darned thing when the fun's over. Jump on the binders in a Ford six-cylinder compact and you're going to learn something about control or the absence of it. With those tiny manual drum brakes, your Falcon, Comet, or Mustang is going to pull like crazy until the vehicle comes to a complete stop. No matter what you do with those pancake binders, they're still going to pull to one side, making for a dangerous driving experience.
Stainless Steel Brakes understands what it means to be driving an unsafe classic automobile and the frustration of being able to do little about it. This is why they're introducing power front disc brakes for six-cylinder Ford and Mercury compacts.
To help us get you started (or, in this case, stopped), David Toth pulled his Mustang onto John Da Luz's lift and we went to work.
We like this easy-to-install conversion kit from Stainless Steel Brakes. It comes equipped with a dual master cylinder, brake lines, and a power booster for easy pedal effort. New hubs, rotors, spacers, and single-piston calipers with high-performance pads are also included in the kit.

(above and below) Disc-brake...

(above and below) Disc-brake conversion begins with drum-brake removal. Pull the dust cap.Remove the cotter pin, safety cage, and nut. Pull the drum as shown.

Six-cylinder drum brakes suffer...

Six-cylinder drum brakes suffer from dated technology. Drum brakes fadeunder demanding conditions. They go completely away when they're wet.They also pull to the right or left, no matter how well they'readjusted. Solution? Front disc brakes from Stainless Steel Brakes.

Disconnect the brake hose...

Disconnect the brake hose at the chassis with a 3/8-inch wrench, thenremove the clip as shown.

(above and below) The drum-brake...

(above and below) The drum-brake assembly is retained with four bolts. Remove the boltsand the brake like this. Find the nearest recycle bin.

(above and right) Everything...

(above and right) Everything is included to get you stopping: rotors, hubs, calipers,bearings, seals, hardware, brake hoses, power booster, dual disc-brakemaster cylinder, proportioning valve, and brake lines. Ironically, dustcaps are not included.

(above and below left )The...

(above and below left )The caliper mounting plate is first as shown. Use Loctite on the boltthreads and torque them to 25-30 lb-ft. And remember: heads out, nutsin.

(next three photos)The hubs...

(next three photos)The hubs arrive sans races. Stainless Steel Brakes provides the parts.You provide the labor. Drive the races in flush, pack the bearings, andcoat the races with grease. Then install the hub as shown. Snug theretaining nut.

Install the rotor onto the...

Install the rotor onto the hub as shown.

Torque the bearing retaining...

Torque the bearing retaining nut to 25-30 lb-ft while spinning thehub/rotor combo, then loosen one-half turn. Re-torque the nut 15-30lb/in. Spin the rotor and check for play.

(next three photos)Line up...

(next three photos)Line up the safety cage and install the cotter pin. Bend the short sidearound the axle tip and cut. Push the long side toward the brake andtrim. This is one method. Another is to turn the cotter pin sideways andbend both legs around the safety cage.

Install this spacer as shown,...

Install this spacer as shown, then temporarily secure with wheel lugnuts.

(next two photos) Fit the...

(next two photos) Fit the brake pads into the caliper and install the caliper. Run thebolts down to 25-35 lb-ft. Spin the rotor and check for freedom ofmovement.

(next two photos) Install...

(next two photos) Install the brake hose at both ends. Secure the chassis end with a clip.Use copper washers on both sides of the hose at the caliper, and torquethe fitting to 17 to 25 lb-ft. Make sure there is no hose binding duringfull spindle travel.

The completed installation...

The completed installation looks sharp and stops smart. A single-pistondesign makes for simple maintenance and durability.

(next three photos) After...

(next three photos) After you've disconnected the master cylinder from the brake pedalunderdash, disconnect the brake line between the master cylinder anddistribution block. Remove the master cylinder.

Remove the brake-pedal support...

Remove the brake-pedal support bolts. Do not remove the sheetmetalsupport screws accessible inside.

(next two photos) Install...

(next two photos) Install the Stainless Steel Brakes power-booster support brackets. Butdo not tighten them until the power booster is attached. This must allbe done with an open-end wrench.

Install the brake-booster...

Install the brake-booster rod. This rod is adjustable once the boosteris installed.

Install the power-brake booster...

Install the power-brake booster as shown. Secure the four nuts. Thevacuum port goes at six o'clock.

Bleed the new dual-reservoir...

Bleed the new dual-reservoir master cylinder as shown. This purges allair bubbles prior to installation by routing fluid and bubbles back tothe reservoirs.

Install the master cylinder...

Install the master cylinder and secure the hand-formed brake lines tothe proportioning valve and distribution block. Proportioning-valveadjustment boils down to slamming on the brakes (once properly bled) andseeing which brakes lock up first. The fronts should come on strongfirst.

The Stainless Steel Brakes...

The Stainless Steel Brakes power booster/master cylinder combo fitsnicely. Based on our experience, this booster won't clear the stockclutch linkage. However, it's a perfect fit for automatic cars.