Let's face it, after climbing out of your daily-driven Ford, almost any classic Ford from the Total Performance years will seem a little spartan. While usually long on horsepower and performance, the early cars were often lacking in comfort and convenience, especially by modern standards. On the first Mustangs, even power steering was an option. Power windows weren't in early ponycars until 1971, and power mirrors, seats, and door locks were never installed in the first-generation Mustang.
This photo shows the complete...
This photo shows the complete power door-lock kit. It includes the wiring harness, latch assemblies with power actuators, and interior switches. The standard switch is shown on the right, while an optional billet switch is to the left. The lock pushrod keepers from Scott Drake will replace any that are lost or broken. This kit lists for $329 at Autoworks.
The power locks can be combined...
The power locks can be combined with this Viper remote keyless-entry kit. It includes the receiver, two transmitter fobs, and a wiring harness. The additional cost is $99.
Now, with help from the aftermarket, it's possible to retrofit some of these modern conveniences onto your classic Ford. While these options might be seen as merely convenience items, they can also have a safety-oriented function as well. Let's not forget that as we age, things such as a tilt wheel, power seats, and power brakes help make our time behind the wheel safer and more comfortable. The power door locks we're looking at are just such an item.
Autoworks International's '68 Mustang test mule seemed like a good candidate for the company's new power door-lock system, which is currently available for '65-'70 Mustangs. The system is a direct bolt-in and functions just like in a modern car where the doors lock on the inside at the touch of a button. Add the remote keyless-entry feature and the doors lock or unlock using a remote-control key fob as well. Since the original key function is not disturbed, the door can also be locked and unlocked manually. In addition to being a great convenience item, power locks are also nice to have because they make it easy to keep out unwanted visitors with one quick gesture.
Join us as we install a set of power door locks onto the car. The complete installation should take an afternoon.
This new console from TMI...
This new console from TMI will be a welcome addition to the interior of the car and also provide a central location for the power lock switches. It can be attached to the transmission tunnel with mechanical fasteners or Velcro. We found one for about $100.
The installation begins with...
The installation begins with the removal of the window cranks and latch-release levers. Here, the padded armrest is also removed.
Use care pulling the door...
Use care pulling the door panel away from the shell. Because the attachment clips sometimes stick, it's easy to damage the delicate trim panel. Once the panel is removed, the window is rolled up to allow access to the inside of the door shell. Autoworks technician Robert Emery shows how it's done.
Here, the ability to work...
Here, the ability to work by feel alone is required. Sometimes a little body English is helpful in undoing the stubborn connections to the latch mechanism. A small pocket screwdriver often helps pop the lock-rod retaining clips from the four rods (door lock, inside handle, outside handle, and lock button).
With three of the four connections...
With three of the four connections to the latch undone, the large retaining screws on the end of the door are removed.
With the screws removed, the...
With the screws removed, the latch falls into the door where a final connection to the lock cylinder is released. Once that's accomplished, the entire latch assembly is carefully extricated from the door shell, as seen here.
Out on the bench, the old...
Out on the bench, the old and new latches look almost identical except for the actuator and mounting plate. We want to keep some of the original fittings, so all of the old nylon bushings and metal keepers are removed from the old latch.
We transferred the other carryover...
We transferred the other carryover fittings onto the new latch. The attachment of the lock-cylinder pushrod completes the latch preparation.
The new mechanism goes into...
The new mechanism goes into the door. It's a bit tighter squeeze than the old part because of the additional actuator, but it's still an easy fit.
In this photo, the new latch...
In this photo, the new latch is going to seat, but first the connection to the door lock cylinder is made. Once the mechanism is seated in the door, the connections to the interior release lever, lock button, and outside release button are completed.
With most work in the doors...
With most work in the doors complete, we turn our attention to the wiring. There's a lot of room behind the stereo for the relays and wire harness; here we remove the aftermarket stereo unit. Other alternative mounting locations include the driver's kick panel, on the firewall, and under the console.
Here's the complete wiring...
Here's the complete wiring harness with lock/unlock relays for the power-lock unit. Once concealed in the dash, there will be wires heading to both doors for the actuators and the center console for the lock switches. If you desire, the lock switches can be mounted into the door panels, which works well if you have power windows, too.
We have already removed the...
We have already removed the doorsill plate. Here we remove the kick panel with the speaker.
Choosing the location carefully,...
Choosing the location carefully, we marked the desired location for the wiring to leave the body with a center punch and hammer. A good smack with the punch ensures the bit won't walk when the drilling begins.
Using a right angle drill,...
Using a right angle drill, the specified 7/16-inch hole is created in the kick panel area.
Here we have punched through...
Here we have punched through with the bit on the outside. It's imperative that the hole in the door be at the same level, so we mark the needed height with a tape line.
The electrical conduit hole...
The electrical conduit hole is drilled into the front end of the door shell. The right-angle drill is useful for this.
The wires for the driver's...
The wires for the driver's door are routed over the steering column and parking-brake pull handle, then into the hole in the kick-panel area.
Once the wires are through...
Once the wires are through the panel, they are fed one at a time into some flexible electrical conduit. Without this protective jacketing, the insulation on the wires would eventually wear through on the metal edge.
Here's the completed electrical...
Here's the completed electrical bridge between the car body and door shell. The wires were carried back to the power latch and the connections completed. Be sure to route and secure the wires so they won't become entangled in the window-regulator mechanism.
With the main harness in the...
With the main harness in the dashboard, the wires for switch connections are carried back along the transmission tunnel. They will be concealed beneath the carpeting on their way to the center console.
Before installing the console...
Before installing the console into the car, we made a small opening in the bottom to admit the switch wires. Here, we lead the switch wires up into the opening and complete the installation of the console.
We route the wires through...
We route the wires through the switch mounting holes made in the console to access the back side of the switches. All of the wiring will be concealed behind the lining of the glovebox.
All that remains now is to...
All that remains now is to set the switches into their bezels. The console adds to the interior of this nice Mustang, and we're certain the instantaneous control of the door locks will be appreciated by anyone using the car.