Classic Instruments - Fully (En)Gauged

Since the speedometer in the Classic Instruments package is electric, a speed sensor similar to what is used on modern Fords is required. Carefully jack up your Mustang and support it with jackstands to remove the old speedometer cable from your transmission. You will remove the speedometer cable completely from the car later, once the factory gauge cluster has been removed.

This is the early design of the speed sensor that came with our prototype kit. The sensor is hardwired with three wires that must be elongated to reach the dash. We used extra wire we had from our Factory Rive Racing Roadster build project and soldered and shrink-wrapped the wires.

The end of the speed sensor is similar to the old speedometer cable. You will need to transfer your original speedometer driven gear to the end of the speed sensor or buy a new one.

The drive rod is inserted into the speed sensor first; then the driven gear slides over the sensor end and is mated to the drive rod. Finally, the gear is retained by the original clip from your speedometer cable.

This is the updated Classic Instruments speed sensor included with production kits. The sensor still requires you to swap the speedometer driven gear and retaining clip, but it's no longer hardwired. Instead, there's a weatherproof quick connection on the end, allowing easy disconnection for servicing. The kit comes with enough wire to route to the dash area also, so you won't have to provide your own wiring for the speed sensor like we did.

When installing the speed sensor, be aware of moving shift linkages, exhaust system components, and your parking brake cables. Route the wires from the speed sensor forward to the firewall; then up the firewall through an existing dash opening, such as the speedometer cable hole (or drill for a new one and be sure to use a grommet).

To make taking photos easier and to give us a little more working room, we quickly removed the aftermarket steering wheel from our '68 coupe. It's not necessary to do so to swap the gauge cluster, but it does make the job a bit easier.

Begin the removal of the gauge cluster by pulling the in-dash heat/air control panel. The panel can stay connected to the wiring harness and control cables, but it needs to be pulled out a bit so the gauge cluster will clear upon removal.

Remove the screws retaining the cluster itself (and the large retaining nut on the rear at the center vent/block-off plate, if still there); then pull the cluster assembly out a few inches. Reach behind and unthread the speedometer cable from the speedometer head.