How To Install A Rack-And-Pinion Kit

10 Here, the OE steering box is removed from the engine bay. We had to drop a header on the driver's side and remove a clutch pushrod, but we were able to get the steering box past the cross-shaft without removing it. Before continuing, we reinstalled the headers and clutch linkage.

11 At this point, the main instruction sheet directs you to separate instructions detailing the preparation of the steering column. By 1968, the Mustang was equipped with a collapsible steering column as a safety feature, which actually makes this job easier. Instead of cutting the long steering shaft found on earlier cars, the lower portion of the collapsible steering shaft is removed from the column tube. Grab it with a pair of pliers and tap on the pliers with a hammer. The lower portion of the shaft will easily separate from the upper half and come out of the column tube.

12 Next, the lower shaft is replaced with the Total Control part by slipping it into the column tube where it will go into the OE upper shaft. The lower shaft is the male component and the upper is the female. Since the depth of insertion is determined by the amount of lower shaft needed to protrude from the column, don't completely sink the new lower shaft into the upper.

13 Here, the lower bearing retainer is installed over the lower steering shaft. It needs to seat completely on the end of the column tube while allowing approximately an inch of the lower shaft to extend beyond the bearing.

14 With the bearing retainer in place, drill three holes to receive the furnished screws, and secure the retainer in place on the end of the column tube. Because the lower shaft isn't inserted the whole way, there is empty distance, or slack, remaining in the upper steering shaft, so the collapsible nature of the steering column is retained. This completes the required modifications to the steering column.

15 Here, we reinstall the modified column into the Mustang. However, the fasteners at the floor and under the instrument panel are not tightened the whole way. We want the column to slide back and forth slightly to achieve installation of the column-to-rack connection shaft, and we'll make our final adjustments later.

16 Underneath the car, we remove the attachment bolts for the lower control arms. They will be replaced with longer bolts providing two additional mounting points for the steering rack. With the suspension hanging freely, remove the bolts and alignment eccentrics without moving the control arms.

17 The eccentrics are eliminated from the suspension and replaced with these adjustment plates which are supplied with the kit. Each is drilled with three holes and can provide many different alignment adjustments. As long as the lower control arms haven't moved, we can eyeball the correct placement of the plates, lining them up with the holes in the control arm bushings, as this aspect of the frontend alignment won't be changed. At the end of the job, check the car's alignment, but only the toe-in should require adjustment.

18 With the alignment adjustment plates in the correct position, it's a simple matter to install the new longer bolts. Gently tap them all the way through from front to rear with a hammer, as shown here.