Master Power Disc-Brake Kit - Brake It Up!

It's obvious the car has been sitting for a while as the rotor and caliper are rusted over. Some WD-40 was required to get the caliper mounting bolts loose and remove the old caliper.

The rotors aren't any better looking than the calipers on this job. It's a good thing the Master Power kit includes new fasteners, bearings, and hoses: We're going to need all of it. Everything except the spindle is headed for the scrap heap.

The spindles on the car are cleaned and the new wheel bearings are packed with fresh grease. After a new inner bearing is dropped into the rotor, the grease seals can be installed.

After the rotor has been prepared with a seal, grease, and a bearing, it can be installed onto the spindle. Lubricate the edge of the seal with a little grease, and rotate the rotor as you install it to help the seal past the shoulder at the base of the spindle.

Here we install the outer bearing into the rotor. Next are the washer, castle nut, and cotter pin. Torque the nut to 15 lb-ft, and then back it off to the nearest slot to install the pin.

With the rotor spinning freely on the spindle, the caliper can be installed. Once the pads are in place inside the caliper, collapse the piston enough to create adequate clearance for the rotor.

Once the calipers are installed, the new brake-line connections can be completed. New retaining clips for the lines are included in the kit.

Remove the drums on both sides of the rear axle. Getting the old drums off can be a wrestling match. If so, find the adjustment port on the backing plate, remove the plug, and loosen the tension on the brake shoes to remove the drum.

Next, disassemble and remove the drum-brake mechanism, including the return springs and shoes. Don't breathe the dust from inside the drum assembly; a simple, paper respirator mask from a home supply store is enough protection.

With the brake shoes out of the way, the backing-plate fasteners can be accessed and removed.