Let's Build A Driveshaft
When you walk into Inland Empire Driveline or Mustangs Plus to buy a driveshaft, you can count on the shaft being an "in-stock" item if you are building a commonplace driveline package. Shafts are available in stock for applications such as a '67 Mustang with a 289, C4 Select-Shift, and an 8-inch rearend. If you are building something out of the ordinary, such as a 5.0L EFI small-block, Tremec TKO, and a 9-inch rearend, you will have to order the shaft. Inland Empire Driveline can build a driveshaft to your specifications and have it on your doorstep in a matter of days.
 Each end of the tube is machined...  Each end of the tube is machined on a lathe to create an improved end taper for the welding process. |  |  The driveshaft ends and tube...  The driveshaft ends and tube are set up in an assembly jig first. A buddle level is used to get the shaft close and to ensure proper alignment with the jig. |
We decided to have Inland Empire Driveline build us two driveshafts for our project cars: one steel, one aluminum. We learned there isn't much difference in price with steel and aluminum, both are competitively priced.
 The seam between the end and...  The seam between the end and the tube is cleaned with a wire wheel for purity. Contaminates in the metal can disturb the welding process, adversely affecting the integrity of the weld. |  Once the shaft assembly is...  Once the shaft assembly is set up in the jig, it is checked for run out, which is not only tube and tube-end alignment, but tube straightness. |  Aluminum shafts are impossible...  Aluminum shafts are impossible to straighten. Distorted and bent tubes are discarded. Run out is checked at both ends and at the center. The shaft is rotated and checked at these three locations, and adjusted until run out is less than .005-inch. |