Assembly
It's a big day when the paint job is finally finished, and you can begin car building. The third step in our restomod recipe is general vehicle assembly. In this step, glass is installed, electrical wiring goes in, mechanicals go on, trim gets snapped into place, and interior parts go in. At this juncture, work becomes exacting because it's so easy to scratch and nick a new paint job.
Some car builders think it is acceptable to nick and scratch paint during vehicle assembly. that's nonsense. Go to great pains to protect your paint. Cover vulnerable surfaces. Mask edges with blue masking tape (for easy removal) to protect them from nicks and chips. Bury the body in blankets if you have to. If you store your car outside under a car cover, remember that car covers will chaff the paint in the wind. Cover the body with blankets and soft terrycloth towels, especially at the edges, to protect the paint.
If a slippery, streamlined body style suits your tastes, choose one of the '66-'67 "coke bottle" Fairlanes, Comets, or Cyclones. FE-powered versions of these cars are high on the musclecar food chain and make perfect restomod projects. This Fairlane ragtop looks stock, but has subtle modifications, such as larger wheels and tires, and a host of underhood goodies. | 
This Fairlane restomod is executed tastefully and powerfully. The fresh FE 390 is Paxton supercharged. | 
Full-size Fords, such as this '63 Galaxie, make great restomods. Big-block power drops right in, and these cars will carry all of your friends with great comfort and style. This car is FE 427 powered. Don't rule out the 4.6 and 5.4 Modular V-8s, which drop right into these big Galaxies. |
Engine and Driveline
The fourth step is where powertrain building and installation occurs. This includes the engine, transmission, and rear axle. You may return all components to stock condition or install enhancements as interest and money allow. Scour the swap meets and car shows for bargains. Used high-performance parts are a good alternative to new in-the-box hardware. watch out for overpriced used parts that aren't any cheaper than new.
When you are planning and building the engine, build for reality. Build your engine for planned driving conditions. If you're going to drive it daily, go easy on the valvetrain. Don't opt for a radical camshaft that will beat the daylights out of your valvesprings, guides, and valves. A lumpy idle is cool for a cruise night or at the racetrack. however, you will hate it during the morning commute. By the same token, carb for planned driving conditions. You don't need an 850-cfm Holley double-pumper for a mild-mannered 302. Build for reliable transportation in your daily driver. Install an electronic ignition. Think about a mild hydraulic roller camshaft. Install a dual-plane intake manifold for good low-end torque. Spend the extra money for ceramic-coated headers for a cooler, corrosion-resistant operation. Go with the best gaskets and seals money can buy. Tune not only for performance, but also for cleaner emissions and fuel efficiency. If you can install electronic fuel-injection, do it.
The Ford Galaxie has an interesting racing history, and many restomod builders we know like to produce replicas of famous racing cars. We'd love to create an exact replica of this NASCAR Galaxie driven by Fred Lorenzen, restored and owned by Dr. John Craft. Call a street replica of one of these "Street NASCAR." We like the idea. Now, it's time for one of our readers to build one. | 
The same street/racer possibility exists with early '62-'67 Fairlanes. The '64 Thunderbolt Fairlane is a popular choice for a vintage Super Stock replica. The Thunderbolt's stunning racing history and colorful graphics make for an interesting subject. | 
Check out this '67 Mercury Cougar restomod. It is certainly a cool alternative to the Mustang. The oversize 18-inch rims make a modern statement on the vintage Mercury. The best approach for a '67-'73 Cougar restomod isn't necessarily speed and performance, but a nice road car with a wide track and a touch of elegance. Cougars need to be smooth, subtle performance road cars that don't speak loudly. Keep yours tasteful and simple. |
This is also an opportune time to consider transmission options. If your car is equipped with an older two- or three-speed automatic transmission, consider installing an automatic overdrive, which is a Ford four-speed automatic with overdrive, first introduced in 1980. Three- and four-speed manual transmissions are easily substituted with a Tremec T-5 five-speed gearbox for those of you who like to pound gears. The fifth-gear overdrive feature is nice to have because it reduces engine revs at freeway speeds, making it the best of all worlds. Six-speed transmissions sound exotic, but execution is simple: two overdrive ranges instead of one. The downside to a six-speed is the space they consume in the transmission tunnel. Sometimes, it can be a tight fit.
Step four also includes the rear axle, which is easy to overlook because it's just not as exciting as the rest of the car. If you've gone with a larger engine or a big power adder, that 8-inch peg-leg differential probably won't survive the additional power. If you're converting a six-cylinder Ford to V-8 status, the integral carrier rear axle designed for the six will never stand up to the torque of a V-8. At the very least, you will need the removable carrier
8-inch axle. Ideally, there will be budget for a 9-inch heavy-duty Ford axle. Sources range from a lucky salvage-yard find to a brand-new piece from Currie Enterprises.
Starting with a near-perfect car like this '62 Fairlane 500 sedan will greatly improve your chances of a successful outcome with a limited budget. The two-door, post body style is a personal favorite. The sedan also offers improved torsional rigidity if you intend to install a lot of power underhood. This car is in original condition--the perfect restomod foundation. | 
Any serious restomod project calls for pulling the engine and drivetrain for rebuilding and detailing. Be sure to carefully identify and store each part for ease of reassembly. | 
Test fit any new parts carefully with a trial installation. The time to check body-panel clearances is before the car goes into the paint booth. We're looking for uniform gaps between the body and hood, trunk lid, and doors. When the car is painted, you want to have all of these adjustments behind you. This is not always possible, but it is a good goal to reach for. |