Hot Rod Rob is one of our cohorts here at the office, and he's got a good-looking '65 Mustang hardtop. After a couple years work, it's got a straight body with nice paint and a fresh rebuild on the 289 V-8 underhood. Rob's been thinking about trying his car out on a road course, but the steering isn't as precise as he would like it to be. Even though the hardtop has had a recent alignment and new radial tires, the car wanders at speed. The steering has a loose feel with a large on center spot, as well. When these factors are combined with the OE-style power steering, the result is not confidence inspiring at high speeds. While the front end of Rob's car is in fair shape, he's decided to go with a new front suspension from Total Control (TC).
TC is a division of Chris Alston Chassis Works, and under their new direction a whole array of vintage Mustang suspension products are offered. Rob has chosen to go with the Total Control coilover front suspension kit (PN TCP FCOC-FD, $2,200, for '64-'70 Mustangs, '60-'65 Falcons, Comets, Rancheros, and '66-'67 Fairlanes and Rancheros). With its tubular upper-and-lower control arms and coilover shock arrangement, the new suspension is a significant departure from the original equipment, yet all of the stock mounting points are used.
There's virtually no cutting, welding, or modification to the car. A template is included in the kit for the lowering of the upper control arms, but Rob decided not to lower them at this time. However, he hasn't ruled it out as a future modification. He wants to experiment with his car using the new suspension setup all by itself, and then continue with his modifications as he goes along. Such future improvements might include the upper control arm drop, a rack-and-pinion steering installation, and bigger tires and brakes.
Let's look at the Total Control coilover suspension kit, and then we'll look in on the installation at Marlo's Frame and Alignment in Chatsworth, California.
Here are the new upper-and-lower control arms from Total Control. Built according to Total Control's original design, they are constructed of TIG-welded tubular steel. They offer greatly reduced deflection and improved ball-joint angles, while the unique adjustment couplers allow precise setting of both caster and camber. Because shims are not used to align the front end, the control-arm pivot shaft remains in full contact with the shock tower, further strengthening the suspension. The use of spherical ends in locations where the factory uses a rubber bushing eliminates unwanted deflection and movement at these crucial attachment points. | 
Because machined aluminum ends are used out front instead of rubber bushings, these Total Control strut rods will manage fore and aft positioning of the lower control arm with much more precision than the stock component. This rigid positioning of the lower arm helps maintain accurate alignment and, hence, more precise handling. The caster angle of the front end won't change due to compression of the strut rod bushings, and we're confident this will help address the wandering tendency Rob's car has at freeway speeds. Another benefit of the solid strut rod connection is the strut rod bushing compression that occurs under hard braking is eliminated. | 
This photo shows the main components for the coilover conversion. Nearly every aspect of the system is adjustable to suit your application or style of driving. Caster, camber, spring preload, spring rate, and shock dampening levels can be changed to suit a mild street-driven car or a full on road-course warrior. The shock has a 16-step adjustment, which allows separate control of both compression and rebound dampening. The Vari-Shock coilover shock absorber is made from 6061 billet aluminum and is completely rebuildable. |
We've checked over the front end in the '65 coupe and begin the disassembly with the removal of the shock absorbers. Once undone at the spring perch, they can be removed through the top of the tower (as shown here). We're going to hold on to our stock components. the shocks, along with their upper retaining brackets, will go into the storage box. | 
Up inside the wheelhouse, the shock tower outside panel is removed for coil spring access. Next, a spring compressor tool is installed inside the coil spring, dropping it in through the top of the shock tower. | 
With the spring compressor in place, the tool is tightened down by hand to compress the spring. Don't use an air tool because you don't want the compressor jumping around inside the spring during tightening. When the spring is sufficiently compressed, it can easily be removed from the car. |
Since we don't want to have to bleed the brakes, the brake lines are left undisturbed as the caliper is removed from the rotor. Once the caliper is free, it will be carefully hung inside the wheelhouse. Be sure the caliper can't fall or pull on the brake line. | 
Here the ball joints are being undone from the spindle eyes. The compressed air pickle fork makes short work of the task, which can be an ordeal when done by hand. Be sure to have the castle nuts loosened but still on the threads, so the heavy spindle and rotor assembly doesn't fall when the ball joints pop loose. If you don't have access to air tools, you can separate the ball joint with a couple of solid hits with a hammer on the spindle "eye" where the ball joint is seated. | 
The tie-rod ends were disconnected at the spindle steering arm; we were careful not to damage the grease boots. the whole spindle and rotor assembly is removed from the car (shown here). |