The lower control arms are removed. The overall condition of this car is good, and we're glad to see the lower control arm attachment points aren't bent, elongated, or otherwise mangled. | 
For our last step in the disassembly, the OE-style upper control arms are removed. It's easy to see the imprint left by the alignment shims on the inside of the shock tower. With the new arrangement there won't be any shims; as a result the control arm pivot shaft will rest flush up against the inside of the tower with the alignment adjustments taking place elsewhere. |
We begin assembly of the Total Control hardware with the strut rods. First, spherical ends are installed into the tube ends; then the machined aluminum pad (shown here) is installed onto the rod end. Normally there would be two fat rubber bushings located here. At the other end of the rods, the flat end plates are installed ready to be mated to the lower control arm. | 
Marlon decided it would be easiest to pre-assemble the strut rods to the lower control arms before installing these parts onto the car. Here, the machined steel blocks, which are threaded to receive both the strut rod fasteners and the lower shock mount fasteners, are checked for correct orientation on the control arm. |
With the threaded block oriented in the same position, the strut rod plate is carefully sandwiched in between the block and the control arm, and attached into place using the supplied fasteners going in through the bottom of the control arm. | 
With the strut rod attached, the lower shock absorber mount is installed onto the top of the control arm. This suspension differs from the factory arrangement because the spring and shock absorber load are transferred to the lower control arm instead of the upper arm. |
It is time to prepare our coilover shocks for installation onto the car. This threaded ring will ride the threaded shock absorber body down to the desired position and provide the lower seat for the coil spring. Raising or lowering the ring along its travel over the shock body can adjust ride height and spring rate. | 
The new coil spring is lowered into place over the body of the shock absorber. Don't let the diminutive size of the spring fool you; these coils are more than strong enough to carry the weight of the car. |
Next the upper ring is installed onto the assembly. This ring serves as the coil spring upper mount and seats against the top shock mount. Everything fits together with great precision. | 
Here's the assembled coilover shock absorber unit. Two types of adjustment are apparent in this photo. The spring rate and ride height adjustments are accomplished by rotating the spring-seat ring. The two knobs visible at the bottom of the shock provide for adjustment to both the compression and rebound strokes of the shock. |
A quick check showed it was necessary to slightly open up the holes in the top of the shock tower. The new fasteners are a little larger, so only a small amount of work with the die grinder was required. | 
With the fasteners in place, the new upper shock absorber bracket is lowered into position. Perhaps we should say upper suspension bracket since this part now carries the whole suspension load from the front wheel. |
Because the upper bracket carries so much load, this lower plate is installed on the bottom side of the opening, sandwiching the shock tower roof in between. You wouldn't want all of the force from the vehicle front-end weight riding on just the nuts and washers, which could easily pull through the thin metal of the shock tower roof. | 
The Total Control upper control arm goes into place. Although we chose not to lower the arm location at this time, we may yet do so. If we do change the upper control arm location with a 1-inch drop, the Total Control arms have revised ball joint angles that will prevent any binding during the suspension travel. This binding can be a problem when lowering using the stock arms and relocated mounting holes. |
Now the lower arm and strut rod assembly is raised into position underneath the car. Here, the solid aluminum pads attach to their mounting points. The machined shoulder on the face of the pad fits the opening in the mounting surface exactly. | 
While a helper holds the lower control arm assembly in place, you can secure the fastener into position. The control arm attachment fasteners have nylon collars present inside the nuts, making the use of lock washers unnecessary. |
With both control arms attached, the coilover shock assembly can now be installed. Here the unit is held in place, while the upper attachment bolt is installed. | 
Next, the lower arm is connected to the coilover assembly, and the fasteners are tightened both top and bottom. |
The spindle and rotor assembly goes back into place, and new cotter keys are installed. The tie rods for the steering linkage are reinstalled onto the spindle steering arms. | 
With everything else squared away, the disc brake caliper can be put back into place. Since we didn't disturb the brake lines, there's no need to bleed the brakes; they are ready to go. |
Here's our completed installation. Marlon put a careful alignment on the Mustang front end, and a test drive brought out lots of smiles. Smooth, concise steering and good high-speed tracking are the result. We're looking forward to seeing what Rob has planned next for his cool '65 hardtop. | |