The appeal of a vintage Ford or classic Mustang can't be measured. These automobiles were styled years ago to be appealing to generations of car enthusiasts. The downside to these old, stylish buckets of bolts is engineering shortcomings. We're not talking just one or two shortcomings, we're talking a warehouse full of them: leaking cowl vents, door hinges that fell apart, front suspension issues, rattles and squeaks, and poorly engineered clutch linkages.
 This is the complete cable-clutch...  This is the complete cable-clutch conversion kit from D.B. Performance Engineering, included is the pedal assembly and cable. The bellhousing and fork are separate and must be used. |  Installation begins with the...  Installation begins with the master cylinder removal. Make sure brake fluid does not get on the paint. |  Up under the dashboard, the...  Up under the dashboard, the pedal assembly is next. Two sheetmetal screws hold the pedal support to the firewall, as do the four bolts from the engine side--two for the master cylinder and two above the master cylinder already removed. |
Ford clutch linkages did a fair job with the stock clutch when these cars were new. However, these cars are anything but new now. Those old bellcrank clutch linkages with pushrods and equalizer bars (also called Z-bars) took a man-size left leg to operate with a stock three-finger Borg & Beck clutch. Pump up the squeeze with an aftermarket 3,000-pound pressure clutch plate, and the equalizer bar folds over like wheat in high winds.
You can replace the entire linkage, and it will work for a short time. However, the new equalizer bar and rods will deteriorate quickly and fold over at a moment when you need them most. That is why Danny Banh of D.B. Performance Engineering set out to come up with a better clutch-release system for classic Mustangs, Falcons, and Comets. Danny didn't invent this concept. Ford did for late-model Mustangs, Capris, Thunderbirds, and Cougars. It's called a cable-clutch-release system, and it has worked well in late-model Fords since the '70s.
We're going to show you how to install a cable-clutch system in your classic compact Ford or Mercury fun car. Each application is going to vary some, however, the basics are the same. Our victim is a '66 Mustang.
 Next, the steering column...  Next, the steering column is disconnected from the dashboard. Two lock nuts and the column drops low enough to remove the pedal support. |  The steering column retainer...  The steering column retainer bracket is removed, as shown. |  Next, we remove the pedal...  Next, we remove the pedal support by working it around the column to the right. This is obviously an automatic car we are converting to a manual transmission. |
 The new pedal support goes...  The new pedal support goes in like this. Pedals come next. |  While the pedal support is...  While the pedal support is being jockeyed into position, the brake pedal is installed. |  The clutch pedal is installed...  The clutch pedal is installed along with the large pivot pin. Don't forget to grease the pin and properly seat the plastic bushings. |