The look of a Monte Carlo...
The look of a Monte Carlo bar means business and easily complements this '68's engine compartment, which already wears a chrome export brace. You can have the same adjustable bar for around a hundred dollars, or try one of Drake's fixed bars, which costs $20-$50, depending upon finish.
Sometimes it's hard to improve on an original design-whether it's a TV show or movie remake, or even a wheel design. Sometimes the original simply does its job and does it well. The original Monte Carlo bar that Shelby installed in its Mustangs was designed to reinforce the shock towers during hard cornering and braking, effectively tying the towers together for strength and to prevent shock tower stress cracking. The Monte Carlo bar was a simple design that was easy for the Shelby assembly line to install, and it just plain worked. But this is one of those instances where modern materials, design, and assembly techniques actually improve the product.
Scott Drake is a name known by all in the Mustang hobby. From classics to the latest Shelby Mustangs, Drake has parts for the Mustang you own or are restoring. Scott Drake's line of Monte Carlo bars is vast. From standard powdercoat black and satin silver models to chrome and now stainless steel, there's a finish that'll complement your underhood landscape. The Drake bars are made from 1-inch OD tubing that features a 0.075-inch-thick wall design, 25 percent thicker than most on the market. The Monte Carlo bars are available straight or curved (mainly to clear the long oval air cleaners Shelby used in some applications) and now there's an adjustable version with fully bushed Heim joint ends that you can use to preload the inner fenders, which, believe it or not, can even affect your alignment. The adjustable ones are easier to install if your inner fenders aren't the exact dimensions they should be for the fixed bars, and they can be easily removed with just two bolts for major engine servicing. Watch as we make quick work of this install on a '68 hardtop using Drake's new stainless steel curved adjustable Monte Carlo bar.
 The Monte Carlo bar uses two...  The Monte Carlo bar uses two brackets to attach the bar to the inner fenders. You will have to remove the top two shock tower cover mounting nuts on both sides of the car. The brackets are side specific, but you can easily determine which is which by placing them on the inner fenders for a test-fit. |  Once the nuts have been removed,...  Once the nuts have been removed, slip the mounting brackets over the two loose bolts. Then reinstall and tighten the mounting nuts until the brackets just seat to the inner fender (snug, but not gorilla tight). |  Ensure the mounting brackets...  Ensure the mounting brackets are seated flush with the top of the fender. A hammer and block of wood, or a rubber mallet, can be used to gently tap the brackets into place. Center-punch and drill the two holes for the additional mounting hardware. We started with a 1/8-inch bit and worked our way up to 3/8-inch for the holes. |
 The mounting hardware for...  The mounting hardware for the four top holes is not supplied. The end user decides what style of mounting hardware will match the existing bolts, Allen heads, and so on. If using standard nuts and bolts, simply drop them into place and tighten. We opted to use stainless steel carriage bolts, which will require enlarging the mounting holes a bit more or filing the corners square for the carriage bolts to sit flush. The brackets come with square mounting holes just for carriage bolt use, too, which is a bonus. |  On the underside of the fender,...  On the underside of the fender, install a washer and some sort of locking nut (we used nylon locknuts) or lock washer on each fastener and tighten the hardware to secure the brackets. |  Back on the top side you can...  Back on the top side you can now fully tighten the shock tower cover nuts to finish securing the brackets. |
 With the aid of an extra set...  With the aid of an extra set of hands, lay the Monte Carlo bar in place and adjust the ends until you can fit the included mounting hardware through ends of the brackets. It's easier to preload the fenders with the straight version of the Monte Carlo bar, as the curved bar will hit the engine and will require jacking the car up to take the weight off the suspension. |  Another issue some will run...  Another issue some will run into with the curved unit is the interference with aftermarket Sanden A/C compressors. Most cut or grind away the unused ear on the compressor, but we didn't have the right tools to do so cleanly at the time and we were in a hurry. We simply rotated the ends to allow enough clearance for now (be sure to watch for proper hood clearance, too, if you rotate the curved bar up). |  Once you have the bar mounted...  Once you have the bar mounted and adjusted to your liking, simply hold the bar in position and tighten the two locknuts found on the ends of the bar. You'll be all set for better handling and some extra good looks under the hood. |