Power Window Upgrade - Window Of Opportunity

We enjoy taking our classic Mustangs and Fords to the next level with fuel injection upgrades, overdrive transmissions, disc brakes, and other niceties that improve safety, enjoyment, performance, and efficiency. The popular upgrades we've seen over the years have mostly been overdrive transmissions and disc brake swaps. What many owners don't think about, though, is their driving enjoyment and safety right within the passenger compartment. When owners do think of upgrades, it usually comes down to air conditioning, car audio, and upgraded seats and belts. However, there's much more that can be done inside to take your driving enjoyment and safety further.

One of the upgrades we're seeing more owners add to their cars is power windows. At first blush, upgrading to power windows sounds like it's simply to add convenience (which they are), but having power windows in your classic Ford could be considered a nice safety upgrade, too. Think about it--how many times have you had to lean over to roll up your passenger window when it starts to rain? You're arched way over the seat, your head barely above the dash as you crank up that finicky regulator. If you have a coupe or convertible, you have to pull over and get out of the car to quickly roll up the rear windows.

Electric-Life is a company that supplies OE-style power window and lock units and has been offering universal as well as direct-fit power window conversion kits for street rods, muscle cars, and more for years. Electric-Life offers direct-fit power window kits for Mustangs (classic and late-model), Fairlanes, Falcons, Comets, Focuses, Escorts, Contours, F-series, Rangers, and more. Its Mustang kit, like all direct-fit kits, replaces the complete regulator assembly with a new unit utilizing a power window motor assembly and all-new rollers/pivots. We picked up Electric-Life's '64-'66 Mustang Front Window Kit (PN FD38-K, $298) for this '65 fastback. Electric-Life's switches are sold separately so you can choose the switch that suits your budget and interior design. For this project, the owner chose Electric-Life's Billet Two-Door Illuminated Power Window Switch Kit (PN 99021, $141) to tie into the existing chrome trim in the interior. Check out the installation and see just how easy it is to have the convenience and safety of power windows in your Ford.

To access the front kick panels,...        read full caption To access the front kick panels, remove the doorsill plate. If you're installing rear power windows in a coupe or convertible, you'll need the sill plates out of the way for wire routing as well.	The kick panels are usually...        read full caption The kick panels are usually held in place with just a screw or two but these aftermarket speaker kick panels were simply retained by the kick panel's lip and the sill plate, allowing them to easily slide out of the way. The kick panels require removal to access the cowl side panel for wiring.	There are several door panel...        read full caption There are several door panel configurations depending upon the interior trim level and options. This '65 had a standard interior ('65s used clip-on door and window handles) but it did have a remote mirror, requiring disassembly of the mirror control. Note the cables are color coded to the handle, only requiring disconnection via a pair of needle nose pliers. If you're not sure how to remove all of your door's trim a shop manual will have the answers for you.
Once the arm rests, handles,...        read full caption Once the arm rests, handles, and so forth are removed, the door panels can be taken out. A typical door panel removal tool can be used, but the design of the door shell can cause scratching of the door's paint. Instead, we prefer to start at the forward end of the door panel with a small screwdriver, whereby the screwdriver is carefully placed behind each door panel clip, supporting it. In this manner, the door panel can be removed without the door panel clips tearing out of the door panel itself.	With the door panels safely...        read full caption With the door panels safely stored for the time being, it's time to get to work on the door's internals. For the '65-'66 application, you'll be removing the original regulator as well as the scissor assembly. Remove the four bolts retaining the regulator, the three bolts securing the scissor, and the two bolts holding the scissor track. As you remove these bolts, have a helper hold your door glass or use a nylon or wood wedge to prevent the glass from dropping into the door.	After unbolting everything...        read full caption After unbolting everything and sliding the two scissor bushings off of the bottom of the door glass, the regulator and scissor can be carefully guided out the rear opening of the door shell, as seen here.
The full assembly is out of...        read full caption The full assembly is out of the door and on the shop floor, where you can see the mounting points mentioned in caption six.	If you didn't secure the door...        read full caption If you didn't secure the door glass previously, it will be a good idea to do so now, as it will help with installing the Electric-Life regulator shortly. We used a simple nylon wedge to carefully secure the glass at the point where the glass's tracks were most accessible.	As we just mentioned, having...        read full caption As we just mentioned, having the window's tracks in the position shown allows for easy installation of the Electric-Life regulator. We also applied a fresh application of grease to the window's tracks since they were bone dry from a recent restoration.
At some point you'll have...        read full caption At some point you'll have to determine how to pass the window switch wiring from the doors to the body. Some original door shells have dimples that indicate where to drill for the original wiring used for courtesy lights or speakers, but this fastback had reproduction door shells. In a nutshell, we looked at the cowl panel and door shell and picked a spot we knew would have no interference. The cowl panel is easily drilled from the passenger compartment. The included grommets in the kit take a -inch hole.	To drill the same hole on...        read full caption To drill the same hole on the door shell, we found it easier to drill from within the door shell (before installing the window regulator) with a cordless drill and a drill bit extension for our Craftsman quick-release drill bits.	The Electric-Life Mustang...        read full caption The Electric-Life Mustang kit uses direct-fit bolt-in mounting brackets and high-quality electric motors. The system is very easy to install using existing holes in your Mustang's doors and takes a minimum of wiring.