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Budget Engine Rebuild - Nothing Like Your First Time
Extra Assistance
While I've built my share of engines, this project wasn't about me going at another small-block. No, it was my son, Kyle, a first-time engine builder like many of you. Before he headed out to the garage, I dropped off several books for him to read, including the very same copy of Tom Monroe's How To Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford that I used some 20-plus years prior on my first engine build-my younger brother's 289 from his '65 Mustang. Today, with the Internet, DVD manuals, and more, it's even easier to get the information and help you need to build your first engine. So while we just scratched the surface here, I encourage you to seek out more information, then grab that old engine in the corner of your dad's or granddad's shop and show 'em all you can do it, too. We'll have more photos online that we couldn't fit here. Feel free to join our forums and tell us about your first engine-building experience.  We also noticed on cylinder...  We also noticed on cylinder number eight that the exhaust valve and the piston got to first base with a little kissing. Apparently, something was out of specs because the cam we were using had been in the car for years with no problems-time for at least one valve. The rods are factory stamped one through eight, so there's no need to mark them during removal. |  Moving on to the main reciprocating...  Moving on to the main reciprocating assembly, it's time to unbolt the connecting rods from the crankshaft and push the piston and rod assemblies out of the block. We're not reusing these pistons, so there's little need to worry about any sort of cylinder ridge at the top of the bores damaging a ring or piston. We were greeted with these nice, deep scores in the rod bearings. It must be from the trashed roller lifter bearing that also ruined our cam lobe. |  With all eight pistons and...  With all eight pistons and rods removed, the only thing left is to remove the main caps and pull the crank free of the block. The main journals on the crank were scored from the same debris, so we hope the crank is salvageable. The main caps are factory marked one through five as well (front to back), so again, no worries about their proper location during reassembly. |  We dragged our block, crank,...  We dragged our block, crank, piston and rod assemblies, and heads off to Automotive Performance Engines (APE) in Auburndale, Florida, for some cold, hard truth. Being that the demise of our engine was mainly from overheating, the first thing Kevin Willis of APE did was check the block for straightness with a precision straightedge. The block checked out fine and all we did was hot-tank clean it and machine the bores 0.030-inch over. Kyle tagged along to see what a machine shop does with the parts. |  The heads were a different...  The heads were a different story. Since we had such short valve guides installed (for more airflow), the valves had very little support. The guides were shot from daily driven mileage use and we also had to deal with the one bent valve that kissed our piston. The good news was our performance springs were still usable, so the heads got cleaned up, new guides were added, the springs were checked and set, and one new exhaust valve was installed. |  The block was cut 0.030-inch...  The block was cut 0.030-inch over on the bores, essentially making the engine 306 ci. To fill the new holes, we used these skirt-coated hypereutectic Sealed Power slugs from our Summit Racing engine kit. Our stock rods were resized and fitted with ARP Waveloc rod bolts (PN ARP-154-6402, $56.88), also from Summit Racing. APE assembled the pistons and rods for us. |  Once we received our parts...  Once we received our parts back from APE, it was time to begin assembly. Before you bolt on a single part, ensure the block is spotless and devoid of any metal shavings from machine work. Kyle used a simple Pro Engine Cleaning Kit from Powerhouse Products (PN POW351307, $29.95), complete with bore brushes, oil gallery brushes, and cleaning solution to prepare our block. |  When it comes time for internal...  When it comes time for internal parts, you have several choices. You can buy each part individually or you can take a systems approach. We've had good luck with the Summit Racing Sealed Power/Fel-Pro engine kits in the past, and that's what we used on our little 306 build. We chose hypereutectic pistons since we wanted to keep costs down and we knew this engine was going to stay naturally aspirated. Once we knew our crankshaft would be machined 0.010/0.010 and what bore size, we grabbed the phone and gave the details to the Summit sales guy. The hypereutectic kit set us back only $329.95 and includes the pistons, ring set, bearings, standard volume oil pump, Plastigage, brass core plug kit, Fel-Pro gasket kit, and assembly lube. |  Before dropping a single piston...  Before dropping a single piston into place, you need to verify that the ring-end gap will be within specs for your build. A Powerhouse Products Ring Squaring Tool (PN RST, $24) for the proper bore size is a huge help here. We've used old pistons in the past, but this tool allows simple setting of the ring, plus you can reach through the open center and pull the ring up to the tool to ensure it's square in the bore. Kyle thought it was very easy to use. |  With the ring set squarely...  With the ring set squarely in the bore, the end gap can be measured with a feeler or go/no-go gauge, depending upon the ring in use, and the engine application you might need to open up the ring gap (check with your machinist for recommendations). |  A handy manual ring filer...  A handy manual ring filer from Powerhouse Products (PN POW105050, $65) took care of our ring filing needs quickly and easily. Don't forget to deburr the ring ends after filing with a small hand file. |  When it comes time to install...  When it comes time to install the rings, do yourself a favor and use a pair of ring pliers like Kyle used here. The oil rings can be installed by hand, but the top and middle rings must be installed with the proper tool to prevent twisting and/or bending of the ring. The rings will be marked with a dot or some other marking to identify their proper mounting position, so read the ring packaging carefully. The ring pliers we used were from Powerhouse Products as well (PN POW105060, $9.95). Kyle prepped all eight piston/rod assemblies in advance. |
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Ford Mustang Research
The new Ford Mustang offers solid performance and fuel economy. The V8 standard engine in the Mustang gives you 412 horsepower with an estimated 23 mpg. It can seat 4 people comfortably. Also check out the Mercury Sable and the Ford Shelby GT 500.
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