If you have a late-model daily driver, you probably take its horn for granted. It's always there when you need it, and depending upon where you live and your driving style, it likely gets used several times a day. Unfortunately, most of us with classic Mustangs probably can't say the same. With no reproduction horns available until a year or so ago, the only options were to have a set of horns rebuilt at great expense, scour for quality used ones (yeah, good luck with that), find a set of N.O.S. (you might have better luck finding '65-'66 build information at Ford), or purchase aftermarket horns, which, depending upon the condition of your engine compartment, may look out of place.
A classic Mustang's horns are retained by a simple nut-and-bolt arrangement through the core support. A pair of 1/2-inch box-end wrenches easily tackles the job without having to touch the grille or any surrounding parts.
When we first built this '66 Mustang project more than four years ago, we wanted to find the best used horns we could for it, but even after cleaning and adjusting them, the horns still sounded like a sick moose call. The sound was so bad, we were actually ashamed to use the horn. Whether it was a quick toot to acknowledge a thumbs-up from a passersby or a semi-long blast to warn someone they were getting a little too close in the parking lot, we cringed at the thought of having to press the horn button. And forget about using it when trying to avoid an accident-we were better off revving the engine and using the exhaust note.
Now we can put all of that behind us, as we have these great replacement horns from Virginia Classic Mustang. Available for '65-'70 Mustangs, these horns are close in design to the originals, with just a few minor differences. Correctness isn't our main concern here, but a nice, loud set of horns are. We think these horns fit the look of a classic car better than many aftermarket alternatives, and they bolt directly in place with five minutes of work, and require no wiring changes. How much easier could it be? The horns are sold separately (high-pitch EG-912; low-pitch EG-911 for '65-'66 Mustangs) and retail for $29.95 each. Be sure to check out the video we posted on our Web site comparing the old and new horns.
With the horn unbolted, it's much easier to disconnect the single wire lead to each horn assembly than trying to unplug it while still bolted to the core support. | 
As you can see here, the replacement horn (left) is darn close to the original. The mounting bracket angle differs, but the replacement horn bracket location works/looks better on the Mustang, leading us to believe our used horns weren't Mustang-based horns or from a '67-'68 model. Later, we found the bracket could be carefully clocked to different positions, possibly allowing installation in non-Mustang applications. | 
When bolting the replacement horns to the core support, be sure to take notice of the wire harness lying right by the mounting holes so that you don't pinch the wiring under the retaining nut as you tighten it (don't ask us how we know this). |
The new high- and low-pitch horns are shown here in place on our '66. The complete swap took about 10 minutes. What a difference! Click Here to see and hear for yourselves. | 
Unlike modern horn circuits, which use a relay to give the horn direct battery power, the classic Mustang's horn power travels from the battery all the way up the steering column, through the horn contacts, back down the column, and out to the horns (this is why you'll notice the horns are louder when the engine is running). | 
We recommend removing the steering wheel from the column and lightly sanding/scuffing the horn contacts and the horn rings, and then applying a light layer of grease to the rings to prevent contact chatter and corrosion for optimum horn performance. |