Spectre Performance Cold-Air Kit Install - Cold In, Power Out

This photo shows the intake tube in the car with the filter support attached at the inner fender. Because of the rubber in the collars, the ability of the plenum to swivel atop the carb, and the adjustment available at the filter support, it's possible to tweak or align the whole system for a good fit.

Spectre offers a bracket kit for more complicated installations, but we should be fine with just the simple bracketry included with the support collar. Here, the right angle bracket is attached to the support collar adjustment slot with the included nylon locknuts.

Our cold-air induction setup is simple, looks good, and draws cool air from underneath. It can be removed and replaced quickly.

We set aside the single-plenum setup and began to experiment with the dual snorkel unit. The first thing was to see if the deep baseplate would clear the choke and throttle linkage on the carb. There were no interference problems.

Turning the top half of the housing over, it's easy to see the high quality of the spun aluminum construction and careful welding at the inlets.

Since a '67 Mustang has no separate high-beam lamps, we would begin any system install using the radiator-core support as a mounting surface for the inlet hoses. Here, on the left side of the core support, is a good spot for the opening. The clearance is close to the hood support pad on the passenger side of the engine bay, but it's workable.

We'll get rid of our rusted battery tray later. In the meantime, we'll remove the battery in preparation for installing it in the trunk. Now there's plenty of room for a duct opening.

With the dual inlet plenum in place on the carb, the rubber connectors are installed onto the housing inlets. The inside of the rubber connector is threaded to match the coil surface of the ducting.

We decided it would be easier to assemble these attachments before putting them on the car, so a seat on the floor made a good place to screw the ducting into the threaded rubber collars. We attached the ducting to both openings and reinstalled the assembly onto the carb.

Here's our mock-up of the twin-inlet system. Once the trunk-mounted battery conversion is done, all that's required is the creation of two 4-inch openings in the radiator core support, grille, or headlamp buckets.

This is our '05 Mustang GT on the Super Flow dyno at Bottle Blown Racing. On the rollers, our completely stock Mustang baseline pull was good for 271.1 hp and 282.6 lb-ft of torque. The car is well broken in with 40,000 miles showing on the odometer, synthetic oil in the crankcase, and a new stock air filter.

Using the wide screw clamps, it's a simple matter to join the mounting plates to the ducting hose.