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Vintage Mustang Air Conditioning - Air ApparentOld Air Products Introduces Compact, Easy-To-Install Climate Control For Vintage Mustangs And Fords From the September, 2007 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Jim Smart Photography by Jim Smart
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When the outside air temperature approaches 100 degrees around Los Angeles, Gary Mattson of Simi Valley has a fundamental desire to stay cool inside his '66 Mustang. First-generation Mustangs-not to mention early Falcons, Fairlanes, and Comets-were never factory-fitted with in-dash air conditioning. At best, they had underdash units that did a marginal job of keeping things [such as your knees-Ed.] cool. They also took up space and were unattractive. Mattson decided to look to Old Air Products for solutions. The company specializes in R134a street-rod climate-control systems that enable hot rodders to fine-tune air temperature and humidity levels in the cabin. Through the years, Old Air Products has developed in-dash climate-control systems for popular classic musclecars, including Camaros, Firebirds, Barracudas, and Mustangs; there's even a system for classic Thunderbirds. Old Air's Hurricane system is easy to install and available in a few different configurations depending on how visible or invisible you would like it to be. We'll show you the options and let you decide Right out of the box, Old Air's Hurricane system for the Mustang, Falcon, and Comet is cable-operated and works off of your Ford's heater control. All it takes is modification of the existing control using a micro switch and Old Air-supplied cables. You may also upgrade your Hurricane system to electronic control, which is just as easy to install as the standard Hurricane system. All you have to do is figure out where to position the climate-control switches. Old Air provides a nice-looking control pod that installs beneath the dashboard. You can also create your own control pod or modify what Old Air has available. We're installing our Hurricane system in a '66 Mustang where the heater has already been removed. Don't worry-heater removal is simple. The Hurricane is designed for street rods and is engineered to fit the classic Mustang, Falcon, and Comet. It fits right in place of the factory heater assembly, using Ford's heater attachment points and openings at the firewall. The system is discreetly hidden under the dashboard.  It's A Hurricane! Old Air...  It's A Hurricane!
Old Air Products' Hurricane climate-control system is a compact, easy-to-install unit designed to fit most intermediate and compact Fords including Mustang, Falcon, Comet, and Fairlane (depending on model year). To achieve a perfect fit, you'll need to install shims (washers) on the firewall studs to get this unit the right distance from the firewall. Shims will help you achieve rigidity and a solid fit. If you want it close to the firewall, use fewer shims.  It's A Hurricane! The Hurricane...  It's A Hurricane!
The Hurricane system is available for a wide variety of Ford V-8 engines and applications. When Old Air Products developed this system, it designed hose routing to exactly follow factory air-conditioning hose paths. This means hoses and lines pass through factory locations, making this system almost stealthy. A Sanden rotary compressor helps efficiency and improves cooling. A super efficient aluminum condenser bolts in the stock location, mounting on the factory radiator studs or bolts.  This is the Hurricane's adjustable...  This is the Hurricane's adjustable thermostatic control, which is located on the right-hand side of the unit. The thermocouple (also called a capillary tube) is inserted into the evaporator to measure box temperature. When the temperature rises to a given value, this thermostatic switch closes, completing the circuit to the compressor clutch. When the evaporator gets cold, the switch opens, disengaging the compressor clutch. Compressor clutch engagement happens only when the fan and micro switches are on and the in-line pressure switch is closed. Three switches need to be closed for compressor operation.  The condenser goes in first,...  The condenser goes in first, after bracket installation and adjustment. The radiator slides onto the condenser studs along with the fan shroud.  Our Hurricane system follows...  Our Hurricane system follows all of the same hose paths as the Mustang's factory air conditioning. Here, we bore a hole at the factory dimple for the line passage from condenser to evaporator. Make sure the line clears the hole by at least 1/8 inch, and use a rubber grommet.  The pressure switch, which...  The pressure switch, which does not allow operation below a given pressure, shuts down the compressor when pressure gets too high. Two green leads complete this circuit to the compressor clutch.  Here's another factory pass-through...  Here's another factory pass-through for the condenser-to-compressor "high" side line.  The line is protected by a...  The line is protected by a grommet as well.  Front dress hardware consists...  Front dress hardware consists of steel brackets, bolts, lock washers, and shims. Use shims for proper belt alignment. Some applications require one shim, while others call for additional washers and/or shims. Belt alignment is crucial to reliable operation. The compressor may also be adjusted within the bracket.  From this angle, you can see...  From this angle, you can see the factory-like flexible line that runs along the apron and shock tower. We secured ours with an insulated clamp.  Defensive Lineman The Old...  Defensive Lineman
The Old Air Products Hurricane system isn't a straight bolt-on system. It will challenge your fabrication skills in a number of areas. Refrigeration hoses and fittings arrive on your doorstep ready for fabrication, easily handled by any reputable auto A/C shop. Carefully measure your application, then have your shop swage fittings onto the ends. If the kit doesn't have what you're looking for, count on the shop to have it. Old Air includes straight and 90-degree fittings in your kit, along with O-rings and lubricant for proper installation. Be sure to always lubricate O-rings with the grease provided. Don't use white grease or wheel-bearing grease.  First, we do a mock-up test...  First, we do a mock-up test fit to check for clearance issues and establish the drain location. Everything lined up for us.  With evaporator-drain positioning...  With evaporator-drain positioning established, a 1-inch hole is bored in the floorpan as shown. You can use the drain provided or a molded vacuum hose for a factory look. The main thing is to keep debris out of the drain.  Before permanently installing...  Before permanently installing the air handler, give the vent plug 360 degrees of silicone sealer around the lip, and seat it firmly as shown. When the silicone cures, it's a tight seal. You can also use 3M's Rope Caulk as a sealer.  With the air handler permanently...  With the air handler permanently installed, we're ready for the firewall grommet. This guy requires patience and a razor-thin cut on the refrigeration side to clear these fittings. Did you notice the use of Ford Tinnerman nuts on these studs to give the Hurricane a factory look?  We installed the expansion...  We installed the expansion valve, again remembering to lubricate the O-rings and tighten the fittings to proper specifications. Remember, refrigeration leakage can be expensive, so pay close attention to detail and don't cut the seal. What's more, don't force anything.  Cool In Black When building...  Cool In Black
When building a big Ford or perhaps a grocery-getter wagon, in-dash air conditioning and heating can't always keep up. For less than $100, Old Air's Rear Air Flow Enhancer can help. It keeps cool or warm cabin air moving. Whether it's blazing hot or freezing cold outside, you'll appreciate Old Air's imagination on this one.  Old Air Products' Hurricane...  Old Air Products' Hurricane system manages your car's airflow in many ways. It comes with basic, chromed-plastic eyeball and horizontal vents depending on application, but don't let this stop you from going one better. The company has all kinds of air-vent styles and types depending on how radical you intend to go. Check out the company's catalog for billet air vents that will make a huge difference in your interior's demeanor. What's more, you can paint or powdercoat these assemblies to match the rest of your interior. That's what we did. Mission Control
If you're going with the standard Hurricane system with manual controls, you'll use your Ford's factory heater control. A micro switch, included in the kit, is incorporated into the factory heater controls. This switch controls compressor clutch engagement. When closed, it carries power to compressor switches further down the line. Position this switch carefully, then mark the screw holes.  The compressor micro switch...  The compressor micro switch installs as shown here on a '67-'68 Mustang. Mark and drill a 1/8-inch screw hole. When the heater controls are moved to the "off" position, it closes the micro switch to begin current flow to the compressor clutch. With the fan off, there's no compressor-clutch engagement. If box temperature is below engagement value, then no compressor-clutch engagement will occur. And finally, if the pressure switch is open due to high or low pressure, no cigar there either. All switches in the chain must be closed for clutch engagement. Old Air Products also provides the fan switch necessary for Hurricane operation. This is a three-speed switch that, ironically, is the same basic design found in classic Fords. It has a three-pin plug that ties it to the blower motor.  Your Ford's factory heater...  Your Ford's factory heater control also controls the Hurricane unit. Simply tie the Hurricane's cables into your Mustang's heater control. Aside from air conditioning, each lever has the same function on the heat side.  Installed, the Hurricane's...  Installed, the Hurricane's hot-water valve should look like this. There are two valves. When you need heat, this cable-controlled water valve allows the flow of hot coolant through the Hurricane's heater core. Underneath is a shut-off valve to turn off coolant flow for summertime use. Go High Tech
Although electronic climate control is not standard with the Hurricane system, you can turn your Hurricane into a Category 5 rock-and-roll experience with this electronic climate-control add-on from Old Air Products. The standard Hurricane system is cable-operated. The electronic climate-control system turns your cable-operated Hurricane into an easy-to-use touch control. Instead of a cable-operated hot-water valve and manual shutoff, you get an electrically operated two-stage valve that completely closes off hot-water flow whenever the heater is switched off. No manual shutoff, no cables-a drive-by-wire climate-control system you're going to like.  The electronic climate-control...  The electronic climate-control harness has two similar multiplex plugs-one activates the hot water valve, the other operates an air door for defrost/heat. Don't confuse the two.  The master control is easy...  The master control is easy to install because plug size and configuration is specific. It's virtually impossible to get it backwards. Blue wires are for instrument lighting-a light-emitting diode. This system employs a super-smooth, three-speed fan switch, as well as an air control that enables you to switch from heat to defrost. When you need cold air, just touch the A/C button for prompt compressor-clutch engagement.  To install the electronic...  To install the electronic climate-control option, you must first swap defroster air-door assemblies. Remove the cable-operated air-door assembly via two screws. The electronic climate-control defroster air-door assembly is solenoid-operated and attaches via the same two screws found with the cable-operated assembly.  Earlier, we cited the difference...  Earlier, we cited the difference between cable control and electronic control. On the left is the cable control and manual shut-off. On the right is the electronic shut-off valve, which does the work of both with a slider control.  Installed, the electronic...  Installed, the electronic hot-water valve looks like this. Keep the valve away from hot exhaust manifolds and headers. Route the wiring as shown, away from hot surfaces. We came through one of the heater-hose firewall passages with a rubber grommet for safety. Refrigeration lines will tuck nicely behind this valve with 90-degree fittings.
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