There are two complete kits...
There are two complete kits from Shelby Performance Parts. The non-Shaker-based kit is PN KA-NOSHAKER-KIT and retails for $1,249.99. It includes four 6x8 two-way speakers, a four-channel amp, and a 10-inch sub enclosure with all wiring. The Shaker 500/1000-based kit, PN KA-SHAKER-KIT adds the two 8-inch door subs to the mix and will set you back $1,399.99.
If you look back at Carroll Shelby's history it has always been about improving the performance of a vehicle. From more horsepower to better handling and braking, Shelby has always demanded more from the cars he built and it's no different with today's Shelby products (GT500, Shelby GT, et al). But one thing that is different is today's buyers. Back in the '60s and Ford's Total Performance era (as well as the general muscle car wars of the time) meant power, and lots of it. Today, however, owners of Shelby automobiles want their power with 100 percent perfect driveability, ice cold A/C, and all the power accoutrements, including a sizzling audio system. That last entry has been "Shelbyized" as well now thanks to a partnership with Stillwater Designs, better known as Kicker Audio. Together they have designed the new Shelby Kicker Sound System.
Kicker, like many of the larger car audio companies, has an OEM division which works with car manufacturers to offer its products as an option or dealer-level upgrade. Shelby Automobiles partnered with Kicker's OEM division to make a truly plug-and-play (I know, I hate that phrase too, but it really does describe this audio system) audio upgrade for the '05-'09 Mustang. Kicker developed a package that replaces all of the Mustang's 6x8-inch speakers with high-quality Kicker two-way direct-fit units, a 46-watt per channel four-channel amp, and for Shaker-based systems it replaces the door-mounted 8-inch subs with Kicker versions as well. The two systems are rounded out with a 200-watt amplified 10-inch sub in the trunk (sorry convertible owners, but it won't fit your limited trunk space), upgrading the Shaker 500 system, and replacing the trunk subs in the Shaker 1000 system. Best of all, while these two systems were designed to work exclusively in the Mustang as a package, you can indeed upgrade your Mustang with any of the kit's components separately. Already upgraded your 6x8s in the door and deck but want a sub? You can purchase the 10-inch sub, which includes the built in amp and all wiring all by itself. So check out our install of the Shaker-based kit on our '08 GT with a Shaker 500 system and take a look at the Shelby Performance Parts website to see all of the individual audio gear as well.
A quick comparison of the...
A quick comparison of the OE Ford door speaker and the new Kicker replacement show a vast quality improvement on all fronts.
From a larger magnet, to higher...
From a larger magnet, to higher quality cone and surround material, the Kicker speaker is a huge step up in sound reproduction. The speakers utilize a poly cone with a 20mm Titanium dome tweeter with a 12db crossover.
With the panel free from the...
With the panel free from the door shell you can lean it toward you to access the inside door handle mechanism. The Kicker instructions state to remove the handle assembly and pass it through the door panel, but we simply compressed the clips holding the cable to the door panel and freed the cable from the handle.
The factory 6x8 door speaker...
The factory 6x8 door speaker is secured via T20 Torx screws. Remove the four screws retaining the speaker to the door and then disconnect the modular wiring plug from the speaker for removal.
Designed by Kicker's OEM division,...
Designed by Kicker's OEM division, the replacement speakers have the exact same modular wiring plug for a simple plug-in installation. Mount the speakers using the factory mounting hardware and you're done with the front door speakers.
If your Mustang has the optional...
If your Mustang has the optional Shaker system, the door panels themselves have an 8-inch subwoofer mounted in them. They are secured by a 10mm bolt on the rear of the speaker frame (through the door panel itself).
From the front of the door...
From the front of the door panel, remove the sub's trim ring, which is simply secured via friction clips, and then remove the eight 7mm mounting screws. The wiring for the dual voice coil sub is soldered to the terminals and will need to be cut from the sub for reuse with the new Kicker replacement sub. Cut the wiring approximately 2 inches from the sub's terminals.
Before the new sub can be...
Before the new sub can be installed in the door panel you will have to prep the door panel accordingly and add the sub wiring to the new Kicker sub. First, we tackled the door panel mods. You will need to cut off the two factory sub locating pins, as these will interfere with the new sub's mounting rings. Once the pins are removed install the foam gasket to the Kicker-supplied spacer ring and mount the ring to the door panel using the original 7mm screws.
With wiring complete, the...
With wiring complete, the harness can be routed back through the door panel (ensure the rubber grommet is sealed properly) and the new Kicker sub can be mounted to the adapter ring previously installed, using the new hardware supplied in the kit. A new rear mounting bolt is supplied the for the sub as well.
For the wiring you will only...
For the wiring you will only be using one "side" of the original dual voice coil wiring harness. The two white wires with gray and black stripes (respectively) will require their insulation to be stripped back and installed under the spring loaded terminals of the Kicker sub-gray stripe to the red terminal and black stripe to the black terminal. The remaining two wires should be sealed/taped up to prevent any shorting of the amplifier.
Rear Speakers
Accessing...
Rear Speakers
Accessing the rear deck speakers is from the top of the rear deck, which requires some interior trim removal. Start by removing the door sill plates, which are simply secured via friction clips and double sided tape that requires grasping and pulling them upwards. From there, the rear quarter-panel trim can be removed, which requires finding the three plastic retainers (two at the rear edge with the seats folded down, one at the front) and removing them first.
Kicker finishes off the new...
Kicker finishes off the new door sub install with these custom sub grilles which allow the Kicker sub emblem to be viewed through the grille. The Shelby logo at the bottom of the grille lets everyone know you're packing a custom audio system designed and optimized exclusively for the Mustang's interior. Reinstall the door panel in reverse order and then repeat these steps for the opposite door.
With both rear quarter trim...
With both rear quarter trim panels removed and the fold-down seats in their lowered position you can remove the four plastic retainers holding the package tray in place and then remove the package tray for full access to the rear deck speakers. Be careful when removing the tray that it is not caught on the seatbelts, tearing the tray.
The two rear deck speakers...
The two rear deck speakers are retained by more T20 Torx hardware (four per speaker). We used a small ratcheting bit driver and a T20 bit to remove the screws. Space is at a premium between the speakers and rear glass so choose your tools wisely. Disconnect the speaker wiring and install the Kicker replacements. Reinstall the package tray trim and driver-side quarter trim and door sill cover. The passenger side is left off for now to route our trunk-mounted subwoofer wiring next.
Trunk-Mounted Subwoofer
Before...
Trunk-Mounted Subwoofer
Before physically installing the trunk-mounted subwoofer assembly, it's easier to connect its wiring harness now before the whole thing goes into the trunk. The connector is keyed to assemble only one way. Once you have assembled the connector, push the red lock tab into place to prevent it from possibly becoming loose.
Pull back the trunk carpet...
Pull back the trunk carpet on the right side of the trunk floor and temporarily pull the wiring harness shown off of the threaded stud on the trunk floor. You will also need to remove the 13mm bolt at the top edge of the trunk behind the taillight. Slip the sub enclosure into place on the floor stud and rotate it into the trunk corner, securing the top with the previously removed 13mm bolt. Install the supplied 10mm nut on the floor stud and then snap the wiring harness back onto the stud to secure it.
Fold the carpet back about...
Fold the carpet back about six inches and lay it back into place in front of the sub enclosure. The 10-inch long throw square sub, with its rear-mounted 200-watt amplifier, is actually 50 percent smaller and 60 percent lighter than the Shaker 1000-based trunk sub system, yet has twice the output. Shelby wouldn't have it any other way.
Carefully route the sub's...
Carefully route the sub's wiring through the large round hole in the body structure just forward of the sub and lay the sub wiring along the Mustang's rear body harness, tie-wrapping it as needed to keep it secure and away from any abrasion or pinch points. At this time, the rear quarter trim panel and rear seat cushion (if removed) can be reinstalled.
Amplifier And Final Wiring...
Amplifier And Final Wiring
The amplifier in the kit includes an overlay harness that intercepts the head unit's output and converts it to the pumped up signal the upgraded speakers can handle. To access the head unit for installation of said harness the top of the console and the dash trim need to be removed. Open the console lid and remove the two screws found at the back. Pry up the shifter trim and boot (unscrew the knob to completely remove the boot) and then remove the top of the console.
The two vertical trim panels...
The two vertical trim panels along the leading edge of the center stack are retained by friction clips and simply pull free. Once out of the way you will see the six 7mm screws retaining the center stack trim. Pull the bezel free and disconnect the wiring (the A/C has a funky lift-to-release connector that is easy to break, you've been warned).
Four screws secure the head...
Four screws secure the head unit to the dash. Remove these four screws and slide the head unit out of the dash. Route the new wiring harness from under the dash into the center of the dash and connect the wiring to the dash harness and radio as required and then reassemble the dash and console.
The other end of the just-installed...
The other end of the just-installed harness will connect to the Kicker four-channel amplifier. Ensure the connectors are seated and latched and then mount the amplifier and bracket assembly using the stud at the bottom of the A/C case and the screws at the leading edge of the dash under the glovebox.
At this point all that is...
At this point all that is left to do is connect the amplifier and subwoofer wiring to their power and ground connections. To access the firewall grommet where the power leads will pass through, you'll need to remove the right front splash shield, which is secured by six plastic retainers, two at the trailing edge of the fender opening and four behind the wheel.
You will see the firewall...
You will see the firewall grommet easily and the extra wire opening supplied by Ford. Carefully cut the tip off of the extra wire opening and pass the power leads through the firewall before you install the supplied white wiring connectors. Plug the connectors into the amplifier and subwoofer harnesses and slip the opposite end's ring terminals over the battery stud at the underhood junction box. Secure the routing with tie-wraps.
Lastly, remove the 10mm nut...
Lastly, remove the 10mm nut found at the right corner of the dash and install the ground wire ring terminals from the amplifier and subwoofer harnesses over the stud and then reinstall the nut to secure them. At this point you can reinstall the right front kick panel and right door sill trim and install the fuses into their fuse holders under the hood. Now, just like Nigel Tufnel from Spinal Tap, you too can crank it up to 11.