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 Rear Speakers
Accessing...  Rear Speakers
Accessing the rear deck speakers is from the top of the rear deck, which requires some interior trim removal. Start by removing the door sill plates, which are simply secured via friction clips and double sided tape that requires grasping and pulling them upwards. From there, the rear quarter-panel trim can be removed, which requires finding the three plastic retainers (two at the rear edge with the seats folded down, one at the front) and removing them first.  Kicker finishes off the new...  Kicker finishes off the new door sub install with these custom sub grilles which allow the Kicker sub emblem to be viewed through the grille. The Shelby logo at the bottom of the grille lets everyone know you're packing a custom audio system designed and optimized exclusively for the Mustang's interior. Reinstall the door panel in reverse order and then repeat these steps for the opposite door.  With both rear quarter trim...  With both rear quarter trim panels removed and the fold-down seats in their lowered position you can remove the four plastic retainers holding the package tray in place and then remove the package tray for full access to the rear deck speakers. Be careful when removing the tray that it is not caught on the seatbelts, tearing the tray.  The two rear deck speakers...  The two rear deck speakers are retained by more T20 Torx hardware (four per speaker). We used a small ratcheting bit driver and a T20 bit to remove the screws. Space is at a premium between the speakers and rear glass so choose your tools wisely. Disconnect the speaker wiring and install the Kicker replacements. Reinstall the package tray trim and driver-side quarter trim and door sill cover. The passenger side is left off for now to route our trunk-mounted subwoofer wiring next.  Trunk-Mounted Subwoofer
Before...  Trunk-Mounted Subwoofer
Before physically installing the trunk-mounted subwoofer assembly, it's easier to connect its wiring harness now before the whole thing goes into the trunk. The connector is keyed to assemble only one way. Once you have assembled the connector, push the red lock tab into place to prevent it from possibly becoming loose.  Pull back the trunk carpet...  Pull back the trunk carpet on the right side of the trunk floor and temporarily pull the wiring harness shown off of the threaded stud on the trunk floor. You will also need to remove the 13mm bolt at the top edge of the trunk behind the taillight. Slip the sub enclosure into place on the floor stud and rotate it into the trunk corner, securing the top with the previously removed 13mm bolt. Install the supplied 10mm nut on the floor stud and then snap the wiring harness back onto the stud to secure it.  Fold the carpet back about...  Fold the carpet back about six inches and lay it back into place in front of the sub enclosure. The 10-inch long throw square sub, with its rear-mounted 200-watt amplifier, is actually 50 percent smaller and 60 percent lighter than the Shaker 1000-based trunk sub system, yet has twice the output. Shelby wouldn't have it any other way.  Carefully route the sub's...  Carefully route the sub's wiring through the large round hole in the body structure just forward of the sub and lay the sub wiring along the Mustang's rear body harness, tie-wrapping it as needed to keep it secure and away from any abrasion or pinch points. At this time, the rear quarter trim panel and rear seat cushion (if removed) can be reinstalled.  Amplifier And Final Wiring...  Amplifier And Final Wiring
The amplifier in the kit includes an overlay harness that intercepts the head unit's output and converts it to the pumped up signal the upgraded speakers can handle. To access the head unit for installation of said harness the top of the console and the dash trim need to be removed. Open the console lid and remove the two screws found at the back. Pry up the shifter trim and boot (unscrew the knob to completely remove the boot) and then remove the top of the console.
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