Modifying A 460 Ford Engine - A Bigger Better Big-Block

These connecting rods are forged-steel construction and have an H-beam configuration. They were supplied by RPM Machine and have a 6.700-inch center-to-center length. The stock rod length for the 460 is 6.605.

The pistons for our build are forged and 0.030-inch oversized. Manufactured by Probe, they have had the wrist pin relocated upward to accommodate the longer connecting rods. We selected the flat-top design to go with the large chamber cylinder heads that we'll be using for a final compression ratio of 10.5:1.

New bearings are important, and these Clevite 77 bearings (CM74339-H, $90) should fill the bill nicely. Because our crankshaft is brand-new, we don't need to be concerned with any undersize considerations. Bearings for both crankshaft main journals and connecting rods are shown.

You can't go wrong using ARP fasteners for a new engine. Here, we have enough to cover the whole build: main cap studs, head bolts, rocker studs, flywheel bolts, and a complete engine and accessory fastener kit.

Engine main cap studs instead of bolts are mandatory if a main cap girdle is to be used. This TA Racing girdle (1025R-460, $385) is cut from billet steel and will dramatically strengthen the bottom end of the two-bolt block. Main cap walk or wobble is virtually eliminated using the girdle. It's cheap insurance.

Comp Cams makes all of the components for our valvetrain, including the Magnum rocker arms, hydraulic roller lifters, and camshaft. The camshaft in our engine (3637-000-1, $295) is a custom grind and has a lift at the valve of.627 inch for both intake and exhaust. Duration at 0.050 is 244 degrees for both intake and exhaust, and the lobe separation is 108 degrees. Although this sounds like a lot of camshaft with the .600-plus lift, the large displacement of our stroker big-block should be able to absorb all that lift capability quite nicely. Comp also furnished a double-row timing set for the project.

Here's our Ford 460 block (the core cost us $250) just back from the machine shop. While there, it was checked over completely and found to be in good shape, needing only to be bored 0.030-inch oversize. Our total bill for machine work was right at $385. Unlike the short deck or Windsor small-block, this block doesn't need to be notched at the pan rails or the bore skirts to clear the lengthened reciprocating assembly. Mark begins assembly by installing the ARP main studs into the cylinder block using a hex driver to gently seat the stud.

All main bearing halves have been set in place in the block. Here, the upper half of the two-piece rear main seal is installed.

We're preparing for the installation of the crank, so all bearing surfaces get a coating of assembly lube. The center main bearing is also the thrust bearing and is shown here getting the lube.

The critical moment has come as the crankshaft is carefully lowered into position in the bearing saddles. The crank is very heavy, and care must be taken not to bump it against anything or knock any bearings out of position during installation.

Once the new bearings are installed, the main caps can go into position. Each cap is then seated with a few taps from a wooden mallet.

The stud girdle has been set into place atop the main caps. Separate spacers between the girdle and the main caps are not needed since they are built into the girdle. These special washers are installed in conjunction with twelve-point nuts to secure the main caps and the girdle.