Controlling an electric fan...
Controlling an electric fan can be as basic as using the properly sized wiring through a high-amp relay and a toggle switch on your dash. However, we suggest a thermostatic switch of some sort, as a toggle switch can be forgotten in the heat of stop and go traffic. A basic thermostatic switch can be inserted into the water jacket of the engine or into the radiator core. The Flex-a-lite variable-speed fan controller is just one option shown here. The controller senses coolant temperature at the radiator and can turn the fan speed on from 60 to 100 percent.
When it comes to fan coverage, you want as much of the radiator core covered by the fan as possible, with a minimum of 70 percent. If a shroud is available for your electric fan(s) package, by all means use it. The shroud not only makes the fan more efficient, as it is pulling air through the entire core, but the shroud usually makes the installation of fan easier since the shroud reaches the mounting edges of the radiator itself. While we've all done it, the last thing you should use for any sort of long-term fan mounting solution are those plastic "through-the-core" plastic tie-wrap affairs. The weight of the fan, coupled with the vibration of it in use, can cause the fan to wear/cut through the radiator's cooling tubes when mounted in this manner. At the least, use solid mounting ears/straps and when at all possible, a shroud (1/4-inch deep at a minimum) is the best solution.
Airflow will take the path...
Airflow will take the path of least resistance. As such, you want to channel all available air coming through your grille area to pass through the radiator to maximize cooling efficiency. This means any holes in the core support for A/C lines, wiring, and more need to have grommets around them or to be blocked off if no longer used. Make sure the radiator block off plates on each side of the radiator are in place as well if your car uses them (such as a '67 small-block Mustang).
There's a fairly common misconception that S-shaped blades outflow straight blades on an electric fan. More often than not, the S-blade fan has a different motor on it, which increases the airflow cfm, so we're not comparing apples to apples here. According to engineers we spoke with at SPAL, straight-blade fans are usually the more efficient of the two styles if the motors are the same, however they do have a blade pitch that is slightly noisier than the S-blade style. No matter the size of the fan or the type of blade, it is going to make some noise. When you move air, you create noise.
When looking at electric fans, beware of cheap models that cut corners. On large diameter fans, you'll find a support ring to stabilize the blades so they don't flex and cut into your radiator core. Also, look for glass-reinforced plastic for the fan body and blades. This increases the stiffness of the unit as a whole, and prevents blade breakage. Lastly, a quality fan will often have an IP68 rating for dust and water intrusion. Many low-dollar fans aren't rated as such, and driving in rain can severely shorten their lifespan to a matter of months. Many electric fans come without any wiring or controls, leaving it up to the installer to determine how to control the fan. We recommend controlling an electric fan via a thermostatic switch in the engine. Fan wiring should be sized properly for the amp draw of the fan motor, and due to the rather high-amp draws of the typical fan, you should always use a relay to allow direct connection to the battery (properly fused) so that the thermostatic switch turns the relay off and on for fan control. Amperage is of particular concern when it comes to using used fans from the scrapyard. Many times, these fans will draw much more amperage than a quality aftermarket fan, and if you're still running the factory alternator, it simply may not be enough to keep the charging system operating properly.
When it comes to cooling hoses,...
When it comes to cooling hoses, simple is best. Traditional rubber or silicone hoses have large IDs and gradual bends, which are best for coolant flow. Stay away from ribbed hosing, the metal cut-to-fit conduit stuff, or the smaller ID AN-style braided hoses. The stuff may look nice, but none of them flow like a regular rubber/silicone hose does.
Not too many people give the...
Not too many people give the nose/grille area of their car too much thought when it comes to cooling, but it does play an integral part in keeping your car cool by allowing air to enter the core support area and into the radiator core for heat transfer. If you go wild with a custom fiberglass nose, a large-tube billet grille, or possibly large fog lights and other accessories, you begin to restrict the airflow into the nose of the car. It's not usually a big problem, but it is something to be aware of.
If you're planning on a modular-powered...
If you're planning on a modular-powered build like our Generation Gap '68, you should plan to use the late-model cooling system to avoid headaches. Retaining the degas tank as the highest point in the cooling system will prevent many of the traditional cooling system headaches of these swaps.
While not so much a cooling...
While not so much a cooling system part in and of itself, the head gaskets never-the-less play an important role in your cooling system. If you're building your own engine or perhaps just bolting on a set of aftermarket aluminum heads, ensure your head gaskets are installed properly with the word
Sometimes space is at a premium...
Sometimes space is at a premium for mounting an electric cooling fan. Some of the hardest applications to fit are inline-six Mustangs with large core radiators. However, even our '70 Mustang High School Hauler project ended up hitting our water pump pulley/hub once the new radiator, shroud, and fan combo was dropped into place. Our solution was to run the electric fan without the shroud. When in doubt, measure your engine compartment's available space and get the radiator/fan specs from the manufacturer's website to ensure fit before ordering.
If you live in a warmer climate...
If you live in a warmer climate that doesn't see prolonged below freezing temperatures, then you're better off running straight water than a water/coolant mixture, as straight water is more effective. However, we do suggest a coolant additive like Design Engineering Inc's (DEI) Radiator Relief. DEI's Radiator Relief includes rust inhibitors, anti-foaming agents, is biodegradable, and non-toxic, unlike most antifreeze products. It also aids in cooling by improving thermal transfer.
It's inevitable that the original single-core radiator in this '64 Falcon would not be able to keep up with the demands of the added horsepower from the warmed up small-block that now resides in the engine bay. The old radiator was quite possibly original equipment and had a good amount of buildup, which would certainly have a negative effect on flow.
To address this issue, we got in touch with the guys at Champion Radiators in Orange, California, and they suggested their aluminum two-row '60-'65 Falcon radiator (PN EC259, $159.98) built for those running a small V-8 (289 or 302) with a mild increase in horsepower.
The advantage of the aluminum two-row radiator over the single-row brass version is better heat dissipation through thermal conduction and greater flow. Another bonus is the weight advantage aluminum has over the heavier brass unit. This radiator is a direct bolt-in replacement, so all that we needed to do was swap the radiators, connect the trans cooler lines and coolant hoses, fill it up with coolant, and we would be good to go. Now the car cruises all day long between 170-180 degrees whereas before, we were sweating in traffic while watching the temp gauge quickly creep above 210 degrees.
1 Here's the shiny new Champion...
1 Here's the shiny new Champion Radiator we got from Ledfoot Racing in Orange, California. The two-row core, aluminum piece (PN EC259 $159.98) not only looks great, but more importantly will keep our '64 Falcon about 30 degrees cooler than our vintage stock radiator.
2 Here's what we started...
2 Here's what we started with: a single-row core system that is quite possibly the same one that came with the car more than 45 years ago.
3 The first point of action...
3 The first point of action was to unbolt the radiator and fan shroud. We held on to the old fan shroud, as it will offer additional cooling. It may not be necessary, but it does offer a bit of safety from the fan blades. After we removed the fan from the pulley and got the shroud out of the way, we could easily pull out the radiator.
4 Before installing the new...
4 Before installing the new radiator, we removed the old transmission line fittings and bolted them up to the new radiator. With that done, we were then ready to bolt in the new radiator.
5 The bolt hole location...
5 The bolt hole location for the fan shroud on the new radiator was a little too tight to the core to use the old fan shroud brackets in stock form, so we had to notch the end with a bandsaw so they would slide under the bolt head. Here you can see how we altered the top one in order to get it to bolt up. With that done, we were back in action and bolting up the shroud to the radiator.
6 All that is left is to...
6 All that is left is to connect all the hoses and transmission lines. Not only does the new aluminum radiator look great, but it gives off a cool performance vibe. More importantly is the fact that our Falcon will be a cool runner at the track and we no longer have to worry about sitting in stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day.