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Budget Engine Rebuild - Nothing Like Your First TimeBuilding Your Own Engine Is A Rite Of Passage You Shouldn't Miss From the September, 2008 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Mark Houlahan Photography by Mark Houlahan
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Low Buck Small - Block
At one point in our lives we know next to nothing about cars. Slowly, we latch on to bits of information and our knowledge of the inner workings of certain parts-engines, transmissions, and rearends-begins to accumulate. Sometimes it's a formal education from auto shop class or hand-me-down info from dear old dad or big brother. Maybe it was that weekend job working at the gas station (good luck finding that opportunity these days) or a high school buddy with the fastest car at school who took you under his wing. Some of us even learned the most basic car information from gluing together plastic model kits decades ago. However, you got that education, you listened to every word, and soaked up technical jargon and procedures like the proverbial sponge. The problem as we see it is that not enough people from previous generations are passing along their knowledge to our youth. Whether they think the youth of today don't care or won't listen, we don't know. But it certainly couldn't hurt to try, right? Instead of griping at the neighborhood kid to get off your lawn, maybe a little Automotive 101 will crack that hard teenage surface and you might even teach them a thing or two. We're constantly barraged by neighborhood kids of all ages because of the cool cars that end up in our driveways (project cars or press cars) and we use that as a stepping stone to educate them on everything from the basics of car parts (such as a brake rotor or cooling fan) to more detailed car repairs (depending upon their age, of course). One area that seems to have really been hit hard by this lack of continuing education is engine building. Sure, performance crate engines, and even remanufactured long-blocks available at your big chain auto parts stores, really make things easier and the job go quicker, but they've hurt the situation as well, in their own way. Building your own engine is something every car guy, gearhead, or wrench turner should accomplish some time in their lives. Having an engine build on your resume, so to speak, not only gives you great personal satisfaction when you hear that engine fire for the first time, but just think about the next show or cruise you go to where you can pop the hood and tell all the people who ask that you built the engine. Every part in that block you had your hands on. This is what we want our youth to be able to say, too. To that end, we dragged an old 5.0 long-block out of storage, bolted it to an engine stand, and rolled out the toolbox for my 15-year-old son, Kyle, to completely rebuild on his own. I took the photos you see in this article and, except for the machine work and breaking the main caps free, Kyle did all the work himself. Is this a 500 hp stroker engine? No, it's a very simple, relatively stock rebuild; something anyone can handle, which is exactly what we wanted to show our readers to encourage them to get out in the garage and do the same. We'll start from the engine already on the stand, so get yourself a good repair manual and some friends to help with engine removal. Check it out.  You might remember this photo...  You might remember this photo from the July '07 Oval Office column. The engine is a '90 5.0 with ported and decked heads, roller rockers, and a small cam. It's the original engine from my daily driven '90 Mustang I purchased new. The engine was yanked years ago after wiping a cam lobe from a failed lifter and a catastrophic overheating condition. It's time for it to start its second life.  The engine has been sitting...  The engine has been sitting in storage for the better part of six years waiting to become a project. In that time, a few parts grew legs, such as the headers, induction, crank damper, and a few other goodies. We'll replace as required for whatever project it ends up in. First comes the removal of the distributor and plug wires and the valve covers. For you first-timers, be sure to tag and bag all fasteners, take plenty of photos, or even some video.  Next come the rocker arms....  Next come the rocker arms. These are old-school FRPP 1.7:1 pedestal-mount rockers that we had installed along with a Crane CompuCam (remember those?) designed for the '93 Cobra and its factory 1.7:1 rockers. Since we're keeping the stock heads, we'll reuse the rockers as well. Kyle also yanked the pushrods and we ordered replacements.  The heads were hand-ported...  The heads were hand-ported and cut 0.040-inch over 10 years ago by Crawford Performance and installed with ARP studs. We'll reuse the heads after going through them-same with the studs.  While the engine has sat for...  While the engine has sat for quite a long time, the roller lifters easily slid out of the block (after removing the lifter retainer). The older the engine and the more crud you find, the harder it can be to get the lifters out. Sometimes even pliers are required. While we do agree that roller lifters are reusable, part of the reason we parked this engine was from a wiped cam lobe, so new lifters are on the order form.  Drain any oil before rotating...  Drain any oil before rotating the block (ours was long since drained). With the engine rotated, it's much easier to access the oil-pan bolts with a speed wrench.  This is what greeted us in...  This is what greeted us in the pan when Kyle flipped the pan over. Can you say milkshake? The engine had Fel-Pro Loc Wire head gaskets but we still somehow managed to mix coolant and oil.  With over 100,000 miles on...  With over 100,000 miles on the engine, a new oil pump is cheap insurance. If a small-block is what you're building, then stick with a standard-volume pump. High-volume pumps can destroy distributor and cam gears and cause broken oil pump shafts. Not good.  While ours is already missing,...  While ours is already missing, you'll need a damper removal tool to extract the crank damper. Then you can access the timing cover, which is but six bolts. Once the timing cover is removed, the timing chain and gears (and fuel pump eccentric on carb applications) will greet you. Kyle removed the timing chain cam gear retaining fastener and slid the timing chain and cam and crank gears off as one. Some light prying of the cam gear with a screwdriver may be required. Extra Assistance
While I've built my share of engines, this project wasn't about me going at another small-block. No, it was my son, Kyle, a first-time engine builder like many of you. Before he headed out to the garage, I dropped off several books for him to read, including the very same copy of Tom Monroe's How To Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford that I used some 20-plus years prior on my first engine build-my younger brother's 289 from his '65 Mustang. Today, with the Internet, DVD manuals, and more, it's even easier to get the information and help you need to build your first engine. So while we just scratched the surface here, I encourage you to seek out more information, then grab that old engine in the corner of your dad's or granddad's shop and show 'em all you can do it, too. We'll have more photos online that we couldn't fit here. Feel free to join our forums and tell us about your first engine-building experience.  We also noticed on cylinder...  We also noticed on cylinder number eight that the exhaust valve and the piston got to first base with a little kissing. Apparently, something was out of specs because the cam we were using had been in the car for years with no problems-time for at least one valve. The rods are factory stamped one through eight, so there's no need to mark them during removal.  Moving on to the main reciprocating...  Moving on to the main reciprocating assembly, it's time to unbolt the connecting rods from the crankshaft and push the piston and rod assemblies out of the block. We're not reusing these pistons, so there's little need to worry about any sort of cylinder ridge at the top of the bores damaging a ring or piston. We were greeted with these nice, deep scores in the rod bearings. It must be from the trashed roller lifter bearing that also ruined our cam lobe.  With all eight pistons and...  With all eight pistons and rods removed, the only thing left is to remove the main caps and pull the crank free of the block. The main journals on the crank were scored from the same debris, so we hope the crank is salvageable. The main caps are factory marked one through five as well (front to back), so again, no worries about their proper location during reassembly.  We dragged our block, crank,...  We dragged our block, crank, piston and rod assemblies, and heads off to Automotive Performance Engines (APE) in Auburndale, Florida, for some cold, hard truth. Being that the demise of our engine was mainly from overheating, the first thing Kevin Willis of APE did was check the block for straightness with a precision straightedge. The block checked out fine and all we did was hot-tank clean it and machine the bores 0.030-inch over. Kyle tagged along to see what a machine shop does with the parts.  The heads were a different...  The heads were a different story. Since we had such short valve guides installed (for more airflow), the valves had very little support. The guides were shot from daily driven mileage use and we also had to deal with the one bent valve that kissed our piston. The good news was our performance springs were still usable, so the heads got cleaned up, new guides were added, the springs were checked and set, and one new exhaust valve was installed.  The block was cut 0.030-inch...  The block was cut 0.030-inch over on the bores, essentially making the engine 306 ci. To fill the new holes, we used these skirt-coated hypereutectic Sealed Power slugs from our Summit Racing engine kit. Our stock rods were resized and fitted with ARP Waveloc rod bolts (PN ARP-154-6402, $56.88), also from Summit Racing. APE assembled the pistons and rods for us.  Once we received our parts...  Once we received our parts back from APE, it was time to begin assembly. Before you bolt on a single part, ensure the block is spotless and devoid of any metal shavings from machine work. Kyle used a simple Pro Engine Cleaning Kit from Powerhouse Products (PN POW351307, $29.95), complete with bore brushes, oil gallery brushes, and cleaning solution to prepare our block.  When it comes time for internal...  When it comes time for internal parts, you have several choices. You can buy each part individually or you can take a systems approach. We've had good luck with the Summit Racing Sealed Power/Fel-Pro engine kits in the past, and that's what we used on our little 306 build. We chose hypereutectic pistons since we wanted to keep costs down and we knew this engine was going to stay naturally aspirated. Once we knew our crankshaft would be machined 0.010/0.010 and what bore size, we grabbed the phone and gave the details to the Summit sales guy. The hypereutectic kit set us back only $329.95 and includes the pistons, ring set, bearings, standard volume oil pump, Plastigage, brass core plug kit, Fel-Pro gasket kit, and assembly lube.  Before dropping a single piston...  Before dropping a single piston into place, you need to verify that the ring-end gap will be within specs for your build. A Powerhouse Products Ring Squaring Tool (PN RST, $24) for the proper bore size is a huge help here. We've used old pistons in the past, but this tool allows simple setting of the ring, plus you can reach through the open center and pull the ring up to the tool to ensure it's square in the bore. Kyle thought it was very easy to use.  With the ring set squarely...  With the ring set squarely in the bore, the end gap can be measured with a feeler or go/no-go gauge, depending upon the ring in use, and the engine application you might need to open up the ring gap (check with your machinist for recommendations).  A handy manual ring filer...  A handy manual ring filer from Powerhouse Products (PN POW105050, $65) took care of our ring filing needs quickly and easily. Don't forget to deburr the ring ends after filing with a small hand file.  When it comes time to install...  When it comes time to install the rings, do yourself a favor and use a pair of ring pliers like Kyle used here. The oil rings can be installed by hand, but the top and middle rings must be installed with the proper tool to prevent twisting and/or bending of the ring. The rings will be marked with a dot or some other marking to identify their proper mounting position, so read the ring packaging carefully. The ring pliers we used were from Powerhouse Products as well (PN POW105060, $9.95). Kyle prepped all eight piston/rod assemblies in advance.  To begin the short-block assembly,...  To begin the short-block assembly, the block is rotated upside down for the crankshaft installation steps. The main bearing saddles were inspected and wiped clean before we installed the main bearings themselves. Be sure the backs of the bearings are clean and dry. Do not apply any lubricant or sealer to the rear of the bearing shells. You'll also notice the block side of the crank bore has the oil gallery openings, so use the proper bearing for the block and the cap, otherwise you'll block off the oil passages, causing instant death to your fresh build on start up.  With our freshly machined...  With our freshly machined crank cleaned and prepped, Kyle carefully laid it into the main bearings dry. Do not rotate the crank on dry bearings. Kyle applied a small section of the supplied Plastigage to one of the journals. If you really want to feel good, you can check all five main-bearing clearances. Install the bearing caps and torque them to specs.  After the main caps were set...  After the main caps were set in place and torqued properly, Kyle removed the main caps and checked the crushed Plastigage against the package's measurements to determine if the clearances were within specs. While the Plastigage is a great tool, many builders opt to measure the crank journal with calipers and the bearing journal with a telescoping gauge set or bore gauge. The calipers and telescoping gauges will set you back around $100 at Powerhouse if that's the option you want to take (and they're both great tools that have many other uses).  After carefully cleaning the...  After carefully cleaning the Plastigage from the crankshaft journal and bearing shell, the crankshaft was temporarily removed (always stand a crank on an end, never lay it on its side) and the main bearings were lubricated for final installation of the crankshaft. We used Royal Purple's Max-Tuff synthetic assembly lube on all internal components. The crank was then carefully laid in place and received an application of Max-Tuff lube.  Once again, the main caps...  Once again, the main caps were seated and the original main-cap bolts were installed and torqued to specs. We worked from the center-thrust bearing outward toward each end when we tightened down the caps.  With the crank set in place...  With the crank set in place and the caps tightened to specs, the last thing we checked was the crank's endplay by using a dial indicator and moving the crank back and forth against the thrust bearing. Kyle first forced the crank rearward with a prybar, then installed a dial indicator and zeroed it (we used Powerhouse's PN POW151125 magnetic base at $29 and the company's 0-1-inch dial indicator, PN POW151100 at $29.95). He used the prybar again to force the crank forward to read the amount of movement off of the dial indicator. We were within specs on our setup.  We have success! Kyle seated...  We have success! Kyle seated all eight pistons with just a little help from his old man and not a single broken ring or nicked bearing journal (sections of fuel hose over the rod-bolt ends are cheap tools to prevent bearing surface damage to the crank). Notice the notch in the piston faces the front of the block. All eight pistons should do so.  Knowing our crank was good...  Knowing our crank was good to go, Kyle moved on to install the eight piston and rod assemblies. There are some nice tapered ring compressors on the market, but dear old dad built his first engine with the ring compressor shown, so we thought it would be a nice hand-me-down image for Kyle to use the same tool. With the crank throw rotated away from the bore being worked on and the deck surface facing up, the piston and rod assembly was carefully tapped into the bore after a liberal application of oil on the piston and cylinder wall. Listen for any change in the sound of the assembly being tapped into place, as it could mean a ring is catching the edge of the block!  For valvetrain, we gave Summit...  For valvetrain, we gave Summit Racing another call and opted for the tried-and-true Ford Racing Performance Parts E-303 camshaft (PN FMS-M-6250-E303, $176.88), Summit's OE replacement roller lifters (PN SUM-HT220, $100), Summit roller timing chain set (PN SUM-G6620, $37.95), Comp Cams pushrods (PN CCA-7826-16, $37.95), and an FRPP oil pump driveshaft (PN M-6605-B302, $16.95).  When it's time to install...  When it's time to install the cam, some people like to do it with the block upside down so they can reach down and support the cam through the bearing journals. It's not a bad idea, but I've always installed it after the reciprocating assembly. A bolt and set of locking pliers make for a simple, yet effective, handle. RP's Max-Tuff was applied to the cam lobes and journals as Kyle carefully slid the cam into place.  While many pro engine builders...  While many pro engine builders go through the effort of degreeing their cam, for the typical street build like we're doing, dropping the cam in and setting it "straight up" keeps things simple. Kyle installed the Summit timing chain with the crank gear at zero degrees advance.  When installing standard lifters,...  When installing standard lifters, there's nothing too special to worry about. But on OE-style roller lifters, you have to place these tie-bars over each pair. Ensure the word "UP" is facing up, then bolt the lifter retainer into the valley of the block. If you're using link-bar lifters, like the common roller retrofit versions, follow the manufacturer's recommendations as to how they want the link-bar situated.  While we didn't degree the...  While we didn't degree the cam, we felt it was important to check our combustion chamber clearances-primarily piston-to-valve. First, the number-one piston was set to TDC and a strip of clay was applied across the valve reliefs. The passenger cylinder head was temporarily installed with a used head gasket while the number-one cylinder's lifters were swapped out for solid lifters (you don't want the lifter to compress during the checking phase). Finally, a set of pushrods and rockers was installed and adjusted.  After rotating the engine...  After rotating the engine by hand (if you feel any solid resistance do not force the engine!), we removed the cylinder head to inspect and measure the clay. To get a nice, clean valve impression, be sure to coat the clay and head/valve surface with silicone spray or something like WD-40.  You can measure the clay's...  You can measure the clay's depth with the end of the calipers or you can carefully cut away a section of the clay and measure it with the calipers. As you can see by the digital readout on our Powerhouse POW256400 caliper ($49.95), we had 0.185-inch of clearance-more than enough.  Knowing our cam wasn't going...  Knowing our cam wasn't going to mangle any part of the valvetrain or a piston, it was time to button up the engine. Here, Kyle used Permatex No. 2 non-hardening sealer to set the timing-cover gasket into place.  With the timing cover secured,...  With the timing cover secured, the new Summit OE-style damper (PN SUM-163302, $73.95) was set on the crank snout and seated with a few gentle raps of a hammer and a block of wood. Kyle then torqued the original damper bolt to spec using a prybar and a pair of bolts threaded into the pulley mounting points to prevent rotation. You may notice the oil pump, oil-pump shaft, and pickup are in place here as well. We installed a front-sump pickup, speculating this engine will see classic Mustang duty.  We slid the new Fel-Pro Loc...  We slid the new Fel-Pro Loc Wire head gaskets (PN FPP-1006, $63.95 each) over the ARP head studs that were originally on the block when the ported heads were installed. The Loc Wire features a raised fire ring that requires a receiver groove to be machined into the heads for optimum sealing. MLS gaskets are a good option these days, but we didn't want to machine the grooves off of the heads, creating even more compression and less clearance. Ensure the word "FRONT" on the gasket faces the front of the block or you'll have cooling issues.  With both heads in place,...  With both heads in place, Kyle installed the retaining nuts and set them to their proper torque values in three steps with a click-style torque wrench.  While we haven't decided on...  While we haven't decided on carb versus EFI, or even what platform the engine might sit in some day (meaning we'll have to deal with headers, oil pan, engine mounts and so on at a later time), we did want to seal off the combustion chambers to prevent dirt or rust from accumulating. After a squirt of oil, we threaded in a fresh set of E3 plugs (PN E3.42, $5.99 each) in anticipation of firing the 306 up in the near future.  Our completed 306 long-block...  Our completed 306 long-block is ready for whatever project we'll throw at it. The original '90 TFI distributor is set in place for now (ready for use if we go EFI) and after this photo, a set of FRPP valve covers were loosely placed on the cylinder heads and the whole assembly was wrapped in plastic for short-term storage. Now to find something to put it in!
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