Modern Driveline Overdrive Transmission Install - Maximum Overdrive

Turning our attention underhood, we see that the master cylinder has been moved away from the firewall but left connected to the brake lines. This allows for the installation of the clutch-cable support plate. The brake pushrod between the pedal arm and master cylinder was also removed.

The cable support plate is installed. Determine the correct orientation by lining it up with the master-cylinder bolt holes. With the plate in the correct position, mark the firewall where the clutch cable will pass through. We used a hammer and a center punch to dimple the spot.

Before going any further, we checked inside the car to be sure we wouldn't damage anything, such as wiring, when we create the required opening. Using the center punch mark, we drilled a pilot hole. Next, using a stepped bit, we opened the hole to the final diameter of 1/2 inch.

This is what the cable installation looks like with the plate installed behind the master cylinder. This is a durable arrangement because the steel used in making the cable support plate is of a much heavier gauge than the stamped steel used to make the vehicle firewall. The cable assembly is long enough so that the curve going back toward the bellhousing is a gentle one.

The original clutch linkage used a pushing movement with the pushrod attached to the pedal arm below the fulcrum. Since the new cable setup requires a pulling motion, the cable must attach to the pedal arm above the fulcrum. Looking at the pedal from below, it's possible to see how the adapting bracket is bolted to the side of the factory pedal arm using one fastener.

The adapter is bolted in place to the upper end of the pedal arm. The cable end is equipped with an eye that attaches to the adapter at the top using a pin and cotter key.

Back underneath the car, it's time to install the new pilot bearing into the crank. Unlike the original bushing, this part is a true bearing that uses needle bearings to support the transmission input shaft. Care must be used installing the bearing because it can be easily damaged.

The new block plate and flywheel are installed. The Kevlar clutch disc is shown being supported with a clutch-alignment tool.

We made sure the alignment tool wasn't drooping when we began to tighten down the pressure plate fasteners. We torqued down the pressure-plate fasteners to the prescribed value, which is 25 ft-lb. The torque wrench was also used when installing the flywheel.

Install the release bearing onto the new clutch fork. Before the fork is installed into the bellhousing, the ball stud will receive a small coating of heavy grease. Don't use too much as you don't want excess grease getting into the clutch.

We're moving right along as the prepared bellhousing is installed onto the back of the engine. The QT part looks cool and adds safety with its SFI rating.

We've already removed the shifter that was supplied with the transmission, and here the Slick Stik unit is shown being installed in place of the original. We didn't use a gasket but rather a carefully applied bead of silicone sealer.

It's much easier to fill the transmission before it's installed, and the Amsoil automatic transmission fluid is included with the kit. Unlike a Top-Loader or a T-10, the World Class T-5 gearbox must use automatic transmission fluid. Regular-weight gear oil will ruin a T-5 because the viscosity is too high to allow cold circulation to needle bearings and other small moving parts.

It's the moment of truth as the new gearbox is carefully balanced on the transmission jack. The transmission is raised and moved forward toward the bellhousing in small increments. We would say that from a safety standpoint the transmission is too heavy to do this step by hand, although we've seen it done many times.

Because we were so careful installing the clutch, the transmission seated up against the bellhousing without a struggle. Here, the conversion crossmember goes into place. It's a perfect, no-hassle fit.

The heat-jacketed clutch cable housing is secured with an Adel clamp to one of the oil pan bolts on its way to the bellhousing. We're well clear of exhaust heat or any moving parts.

The cable casing is anchored to the bellhousing with a C-clip. At the top of the photo, the threaded end of the cable shows, and this is where any clutch adjustment takes place. Once the correct adjustment is reached, a jamb nut will be installed to lock the setting into place.

With our exhaust back in position, we've completed the gearbox installation. The next step is to reinstall the driveshaft, which we had shortened by 1 inch. While the shaft was out of the car, we also installed new U-joints. Everything fit perfectly, and the crossmember looks as though it will allow plenty of clearance when we upgrade our exhaust.

In the interior, two fasteners are used to install the shift handle. The boot will be secured to the floor with four small sheetmetal screws. The Slick Stik shifter clears the hole so nicely that we didn't need to enlarge the opening. The downside of not enlarging the opening is that the shifter can't be removed without dropping the transmission. Now to try out the 405 again.