Cable Clutch Conversion Kit - Cable Me This

Next, the steering column and pedal support are secured.

We have reinstalled the master cylinder, as shown. This is a good time to install a dual-reservoir master cylinder and braking system for safety.

The brake-light switch is installed next. skip this step for pre-'65 Fords. The brake-light switch is located on the master cylinder.

Come down 1 inch from the cowl lip over the left-hand master cylinder bolt on the firewall and 1 inch to the right (facing the firewall)...

...and mark this location. This is where the clutch cable will go through the firewall above the pedal support.

A Unibit is used to bore the 5/8-inch hole for the cable. The Unibit does not come cheap, but it is very effective. Price is typically around $60.

The cable is inserted into the firewall.

Cable routing should look like this, attached to the shock tower with a clamp. No kinks or sharp bends, just a smooth arc.

Under the dashboard above the pedal support, the cable ties to the clutch-pedal lever. With a conventional clutch linkage, we push the pedal and work a bellcrank, which pushes on the clutch-release bearing. With a cable-clutch system, we push on the pedal, which pulls on the cable.

This end of the cable goes through the late-model Mustang bellhousing to the clutch fork. It is fully adjustable.

This is the late-model Mustang bellhousing with the cable-clutch system installed (visible on the left).

A closer view shows the clutch cable at the bellhousing, fully adjustable depending on where you want clutch engagement in the pedal travel.

Completely installed, the clutch cable looks like this. Keep the clutch cable away from headers and other hot surfaces. Extreme heat can cause cable binding and damage.