Unless you're living under a rock, you know that the new Mustang GT has broken past the 400-horse barrier in convincing fashion. The 5.0L that powers the new GT also has become an interesting engine swap for those of a daring nature, and Ford has made it easy to do with its $7,500 5.0L crate engine package. Ford has also popped for a complete plug-and-play harness that gives you all the wiring, a go pedal, and an easy-to-install computer with a factory tune--all through Ford Racing for $1,799.
The one thing that can be a hang up with this install is the human desire for amenities. We like gadgets and gee-gaws--things to push, switch, turn--and we want power everything; like steering. Hydraulic power steering is not something that is really a part of the new world order at Ford. That's because the lads in Dearborn decided that starting with the '11 Mustang, power steering would be handled electronically by a rack-and-pinion setup bearing the fancy term EPAS, Ford's handy acronym for electronic power assisted steering. That is a problem for our greedy, amenity-hungry nature.
Enter Vintage Air and its new serpentine power steering system for the Coyote 5.0. The system offers the buyer a hydraulic power steering setup that puts the engine right in the hunt for us folks that want more than arm-strong steering. It also comes with a near universal SD7 Sanden air conditioning compressor for a cooler ride. Now let's see just how easy this bad boy is to install.
1 The new Vintage Air system...
1 The new Vintage Air system is very complete and has all the basics (even the belt!) that you'll need to add the Sanden and Delphi pump to the Coyote.
2 The things that you'll...
2 The things that you'll need to bring to the party are a "Q" sized drill bit (0.332-inch), a 10mm x 1.5 tap and a 1/4-inch diameter rod or bolt that is at least 2-1/2 inches long.
3a Your first order of business...
3a Your first order of business is to remove this mounting tab as shown. You'll need to use a carbide burr bit to remove some material after you cut the tab off....
3b ...You'll want to trial...
3b...You'll want to trial fit the lower bracket and cut until you get good fit.
4a Next, install the spring...
4a Next, install the spring steel hollow dowels into the tensioner bracket as shown then mate the bracket to the compressor bracket using the provided 12-point stainless fasteners...
4b ...The bolts should be...
4b...The bolts should be torqued to 24 ft-lb.
5 Mount the assembled bracket...
5 Mount the assembled bracket to the engine as shown. The two front bolts are M8 x 1.25 x 35mm and the rear bolt is an M8 x 1.25 x 25mm. Torque these to 24 ft-lb. You'll need to remove the rear bolt to allow access to the mounting bolt for the Sanden compressor.
6 You'll need to temporarily...
6 You'll need to temporarily mount the upper bracket to the lower bracket using the bolt as shown. This will allow you to bore the new holes in the block for the upper bracket.
7 Using the provided guide,...
7 Using the provided guide, you'll insert your Q drill bit into the guide until 1 inch is exposed from the tip of the bit to the end of the guide. Wrap some tape around the base of the bit as shown to stop it from over extending.
8a The guide will go flush...
8a The guide will go flush with the bracket on the hole closest to the water pump (left). However, it will stick up a bit on the hole for the idler pulley mount....
8b ...Still, stop the drill...
8b...Still, stop the drill bit where the tape and the guide meet as shown in the photo on the right.
9 Remove the upper bracket...
9 Remove the upper bracket and put some axle grease on your 10mm x 1.5 tap and begin to slowly tap the holes you have made. Once those are tapped, use compressed air and some brake parts cleaner to clear out the debris and grease.
10 Next, install the idler...
10 Next, install the idler pulley using the included 3/8-inch-16 x 3-1/4-inch bolt. Then use a 1/2-inch socket to roll the tensioner over and install the 1/4-inch bolt we mentioned earlier to hold the tensioner down and allow the belt to be installed.
11 The pulley from the kit...
11 The pulley from the kit will need to be installed on the pump and you will have to use a Power Steering Pulley installation and removal tool or your warranty will be voided.
12 The back of the pulley...
12 The back of the pulley must be 3.235 inches away from the back edge of the pump. Use a dial caliper and a straight edge to measure this and achieve a correct fit. If the pulley is off this mark either way, you will have problems with the belt.
13 You will want to install...
13 You will want to install the banjo fitting to the Delphi pump using the included copper washers. Only tighten it finger tight to allow for adjustment of hose position. The pump is then installed onto the pump bracket using the 2-5/16-18 x 2-3/4 bolts.
14 Set your belt next. Since...
14 Set your belt next. Since the pump faces the block, you'll have to remove the upper bracket when it is time to replace the belt. Bracket removal is a small price to pay for the convenience of power steering.
15 The pump mounts into the...
15 The pump mounts into the bracket as shown using an M8 x 1.25 x 35mm bolt in the lower rear mounting bracket and the upper front bracket. The lower front bracket bolt is an M8 x 1.25 x 25mm.
16a The belt is the last...
16a The belt is the last thing to go on and it will be a tight fit. You'll have to, as we like to say, "Worry it on," but it will go on....
16b ...After it's installed,...
16b...After it's installed, remove the 1/4-inch bolt from the tensioner.
17 Along with the polished...
17 Along with the polished compressor you get a cover for the A/C clutch. The purpose of this is twofold, it looks cool and it also helps keep road debris from getting into the clutch. And now you have a sweet little power steering and A/C setup for a vintage or later model ride.
18 Here's the completed accessory drive on the Coyote 5.0L engine. Now you just need to get behind the wheel, fire it up, and enjoy!