As we noted in the opening text, the Aeromotive Stealth fuel system for muscle cars is still in its infancy with prototyping and finalization still going on. However, if you're ready to make it happen now for your project, don't worry, you can still order what you need piece meal to get the fuel system you need for your late-model EFI engine swap. Here's a list of all parts we used for our fuel system seen here.
| Billet EFI Bypass Regulator | PN 13129 |
| 10 Micron Fuel Filter | PN 12301 |
| Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket | PN 12305 |
| 0-100 EFI Pressure Gauge | PN 15633 |
| 340 Stealth Pump (Offset Inline Inlet) | PN 11142 |
| 30 feet of -6 braided hose | PN N/A |
| 3/8-inch NPT to AN6 Flare Fitting | PN 15615 (2) |
| AN10 to AN6 Flare Fitting | PN 15609 (2) |
| AN6 to AN6 Flare Fitting | PN 15606 (3) |
| Ford Fuel Rail Adapter Fitting | PN 15124 |
| Hose End Fitting AN6 Straight | PN 15650 (3) |
| Hose End Fitting AN6 45-Degree | PN 15651 (1) |
| Hose End Fitting AN6 90-Degree | PN 15652 (4) |
| Mustang EFI Fuel Tank | PN MU-T |
| Flanged Fuel Filler Neck | PN FN-2.25 |
| Ford Fuel Level Sender | PN TAN-ORG |
| In-Tank Pump Hanger Kit | PN SSP-1 |
15 While we installed Mustalgia's...
15 While we installed Mustalgia's standard polished Le Mans fuel cap kit, Mustalgia does offer custom powdercoated versions to match or contrast your exterior theme. From left to right they sent us samples of their metallic silver, gloss silver, matte black, and gloss black. Other colors are available as well. We're planning to send our cap back for a silver coat to match our Scott Drake satin silver taillight bezels we'll be installing soon.
16 To route the fuel lines...
16 To route the fuel lines from the in-tank pickup to the engine, the lines need to exit the trunk and travel forward along the chassis. Routing the lines can take some patience and thought, but first things first—getting them out of the trunk. Two 3/4-inch holes are drilled in the forward trunk wall and grommets cut to fit and installed. The return line hole is shown here; the feed line will be drilled next to it.
17 Assembling braided hose...
17 Assembling braided hose and fittings isn't rocket science, but if you've never done it, the process might feel intimidating. Begin by cutting the end of the braided hose with a cut-off wheel, fine tooth hacksaw, or hose shears for a straight and clean cut. Wrap the end with tape before cutting to keep the wire braid from fraying.
18 Step two is to install...
18 Step two is to install the socket end over the braided hose. Remove the tape and quickly push the socket onto the hose until the hose is seated against the base of the socket's threads. Use a length of tape or mark the braided hose at the base of the socket with a grease pencil. This will help show you if the hose pushes out of the socket during final assembly.
19 Lubricate the socket and...
19 Lubricate the socket and hose as well as the fitting's thread and nipple with assembly oil and thread the fitting into the socket. Watch your tape or grease pencil line as you thread the fitting in to ensure you're not pushing the hose out of the socket.
20 The final hose end assembly...
20 The final hose end assembly should look like the fitting you see here. When tightening the fitting into the socket, you don’t have to tighten it until the two parts touch. A small gap of 0.030-inch (max) is allowable. Once you’ve determined your hose lengths and installed the appropriate end fittings, be sure to flush the new lines with compressed air.
21 Starting with the return...
21 Starting with the return line, a -6 straight fitting was installed onto our braided hose and the hose routed through the trunk wall. The hose then gets routed to the engine bay. You don’t have to have the routing exact, just a general path to the front of the car for now.
22 We predetermined where...
22 We predetermined where the fuel pressure regulator would be mounted in the engine bay. The line of masking tape denotes the bottom of the pressure regulator, where the return line will be connected. A simple swipe with a red Sharpie gives us a cut line for the return hose.
23 The pressure/feed line...
23 The pressure/feed line is assembled and routed next. Note how we used a straight fitting on the return line and a 45-degree fitting on the pressure line, as it allows the two hoses to route cleanly together.
24 Before the pressure line...
24 Before the pressure line can be run to the engine bay and the fuel pressure regulator it must pass through a fuel filter. In our case, we're using Aeromotive's 10-micron billet aluminum filter assembly and complementing billet aluminum mounting bracket. The filter is directly over the axle-housing, just like a late-model Mustang setup.
25 Now that the pump and...
25 Now that the pump and filter lines/fittings are complete, we can begin to button up our fuel hose routing under the car. Rubber cushioned hose clamps are used with stainless steel self-tapping screws and high-temp tie wraps to keep the fuel lines tucked up nice and neat along the passenger framerail and sub-frame connector.
26 Once the lines pass over...
26 Once the lines pass over the transmission crossmember, they take a gentle curve towards the transmission (where they're secured to assembly line tool casting ears) and up the firewall to where the regulator is going to be mounted.
27 Using more self-tapping...
27 Using more self-tapping stainless fasteners, the fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket is affixed to the firewall directly behind the engine. We purposely lined it up with the engine's fuel rail fitting for a short line run to the engine.
28 The Aeromotive fuel pressure...
28 The Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator we're using is the company's standard EFI bypass regulator. A bypass regulator simply bypasses the extra fuel back to the tank via the return line to maintain the set fuel pressure the user dials into the regulator. The inboard line is the pressure line from the pump and the line closest to the camera is the feed line to the engine.
29 To connect your EFI fuel...
29 To connect your EFI fuel system to your crate or donor engine, a simple adapter fitting is all that's required. In this case, Aeromotive's OE quick connect spring lock to AN -6 adapter. The fitting simply slides into the stock 4.6L Three-Valve's fuel rail and locks into place when the garter spring snaps over the fuel rail's lip. An audible click/snap sound aids in the assurance of the fitting's retention.
30 Our last line to connect...
30 Our last line to connect is the pressure line from the regulator to the OE quick connect adapter. Once again the trusty red Sharpie marks the line for cutting. Always remove a fuel line from the component before cutting and adding your end fitting to prevent debris from entering the component.
31 With the line cut to...
31 With the line cut to length and a standard -6 straight fitting installed, our fuel system is now complete from tank to engine.
32 However, don't forget...
32 However, don't forget the fuel pressure regulator requires a vacuum signal to determine engine load. We tapped into our Hose Candy [www.hosecandy.com; (866) 760-848] silicone vacuum hose with a small section of line and an extra Hose Candy fitting. We're not hanging up our plumber’s cap just yet though, as our brake system and power steering plumbing is coming up next. Stay tuned!