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Here's a close-up of the standard... Here's a close-up of the standard latch link or duck bill-style of harness buckle. As you can see, the shoulder belts and anti-sub strap all slide onto the lapbelt first; then the lapbelt's buckle is slid through the buckle loop, and the latch is pushed down to hook the buckle and secure the whole setup. It looks complicated, but with use it becomes easy to latch. Note that this style of harness latch is not street legal. We'd like to think everyone at this point is running at least a three-point factory-style seatbelt, but we know many of our readers are still sporting low-back seats and a single lapbelt. That might be fine for the cruise-night scene, but even if you want to take a parade lap at Road Atlanta, you better sport a three-point configuration at the least. Something to consider for... Something to consider for your harnesses are these shoulder pads. They simply wrap around the shoulder restraints and offer user comfort in prolonged driving such as endurance races and even daily driving. The one issue with a stock three-point belt is that it doesn't hold the driver in the seat (inertia reel simply kicks in on high g-force braking). If you're sliding around in your seat uncontrollably, you can't control the car. The steering wheel should be for steering inputs only, not something to hold on to for dear life when entering a corner at speed. A standard five-point racing... A standard five-point racing harness like this 3-inch model from Racequip, while not DOT-legal for street use, is the perfect solution for a track-only ride. If you're building a single-purpose track toy, with a fixed-back racing seat and a properly installed five-point harness, you'll be ready when the flag drops. For performance track driving, a four-point restraint (or better) should be considered. The catch-22 here is that when using a four-point shoulder restraint, you have to use the proper seating along with it. A high-back seat with a locking seatback is a must for safety, as it protects the back and head in a collision, but having a seat with harness belt holes or a headrest on posts (integral headrest seats are a no-no) is required to prevent the shoulder harnesses from slipping off. Adding an anti-submarine strap (styles vary, but you can get a single- or double-strap variety-with double-strap being safer and more comfortable to wear) keeps the lapbelt from lifting and your body from sliding (submarining) under the lapbelt. For the serious track car, a multi-point restraint capable of head-and-neck support (HANS) should be considered too. Whatever combination of belts and seats you use, the most critical thing is mounting the belts. The belt mounting has to be to at the proper angle and to a structural part of the vehicle for the belts to do their job properly. The same goes for aftermarket seats. They should be mounted to the original seat-mounting points in the car using the manufacturer's mounting brackets. Aftermarket performance seatbelts that are SFI-rated have date labels and a two-year lifespan, mostly due to their deterioration by the sun's ultraviolet rays. Once the belts expire, they need to be sent back to the manufacturer for re-webbing and recertification.  When you order your belts...  When you order your belts you have a few decisions to make. The most critical is the mounting configuration. If you have a full rollcage or at least a harness bar, you can use the wraparound-style mounting. Your other option is to go with a bolt-in mount, where you will have to purchase mounting tabs to web your belts through. These tabs can then be used to bolt your belts into your car. The second decision you'll have to make about your belt purchase is how you want your belt adjustment to work. You can have your belts adjust by pulling up or down on the belt tabs. The belt adjustment is a matter of personal preference, but some applications and seat designs work better with one adjustment style over another.  For street use, a performance...  For street use, a performance seat upgrade from the likes of Cobra, Recaro, Corbeau, Konig, and even late-model retrofit seats not only offers more support for the increased acceleration, braking, and cornering forces that we see at the track, but they still allow access to the back seat, as well as full seat adjustment for varying driver configurations. This style of seat is not usually configured for using an anti-sub strap.  A fixed race seat, on the...  A fixed race seat, on the other hand, is configured for harness belt use, including the anti-sub strap, and usually comes with a fixed mounting bracket for strength and lighter weight. There are more options in fixed-back seats, and you can even have foam inserts custom-cut to match your body for optimum support. Arm restraints are simple... Arm restraints are simple devices. Depending upon the manufacturer, their adjustability can be either via D-rings/straps or hook-and-loop fasteners. They are worn on the arms and connect to your harness belt to prevent your arms from exiting the cockpit in the advent of a rollover. The NHRA and SCCA both require arm restraints on open-cockpit vehicles. Racequip recommends a contrasting color to your driving suit or jacket so officials can easily see that the restraints are in place. We picked a set of red ones to contrast with our black racing jacket and pants. While the driving suit, harness, and helmet should be your top priority when looking for safety gear, don't forget there are other safety items, some specific to the type of driving you will be doing and some specific to what you will be driving. For example, arm restraints are required in any open-cockpit car. Arm restraints attach to your forearms and your harness system, and prevent your arms from moving outside the confines of your cockpit. A helmet support is another item that is optional but also very good insurance. In the event of a high g-force collision, the helmet on your head can impact your chest. The helmet support keeps the helmet in place and prevents that impact. While driving gloves do offer... While driving gloves do offer a level of safety, being SFI-rated and built from flame-retardant materials, we can't ignore the fact that simply wearing driving gloves gives much greater feel when wheeling a car around a road course. Their grip allows steering inputs to be quick and precise with no slipping of the wheel through your hands, especially on classic cars with plastic or wood wheels. Driving gloves not only offer fire protection similar to the driving suit, but they also give you greater control with their high-grip surfaces. The typical driving glove is available in a leather palm and suede palm with a fire-retardant backing, usually Nomex. Suede is tackier and works well with any steering wheel surface (wood, plastic, or leather). Glove length is typically user-preference but you want overlap between your jacket sleeve and the glove. Lastly, sizing differs from company to company so be sure to measure your hand properly using company sizing guides. Helmet supports are available... Helmet supports are available in SFI- and non-SFI-rated materials. As you can guess by now, the SFI-rated version is where we'd put our money. The two main styles of helmet supports are open and closed. The open version is a simple U-shape that slides over the neck from behind, whereas the closed version completely encircles the neck with a hook and loop closure strap. The closed version shown here is what we use. Don't confuse a helmet support with a HANS device. The HANS requires special harnesses, helmet straps, and more to integrate properly. The HANS isn't cheap, but if you are a serious track fanatic, it might be something to put on your wish list. Driving shoes, once again, are as much a safety item as they are a driving aid. A good driving shoe will protect your feet with an SFI rating complementary to your driving suit, giving you precious seconds of safety when needed. A well-designed shoe will fit your feet well, have ample arch support and padding, wear pads, a high-traction rubber sole, and most of all, be light and comfortable. Driving shoes come in various fitments, including ankle and high-top styles, to fit your driving needs and driving suit. Whether it's banging gears... Whether it's banging gears at the dragstrip or making some hot laps at your favorite road course, part of a good e.t. or lap time is fast footwork. When you're wearing lightweight driving shoes you can react to gear changes faster. The slim profile of a driving shoe means more room in the foot well of your vehicle and less chance of hitting the wrong pedal. Driving shoes are available in many popular styles and SFI ratings. If there's ever an engine fire, remember that your feet are the closest part of your body to the firewall. Wear SFI-rated shoes and socks when on the track. Lastly, don't forget the socks. Yes, fire-retardant socks finish off your feet protection. Standard socks, especially those made with synthetic materials, can easily melt right to your skin in a fire. Don't forget-besides your... Don't forget-besides your own safety, there is the safety of your vehicle and those around you
Measuring for proper glove fit is the same as measuring for a helmet. Use a length of string or yarn, or better yet a cloth measuring tape as shown here, and measure your hand as shown in the manufacturer's instructions for the best glove fit. As recommended earlier, if you can visit a local dealer, they'll be happy to measure and fit you for the best comfort and safety. This story covered the basics of driver safety, and we hope it has you thinking about your next driving event and how to increase your personal safety. Don't forget-besides your own safety, there is the safety of your vehicle and those around you. Contemplate upgrades such as a proper restraint/harness bar or even a full multi-point rollcage. An onboard fire-suppression system is another thought. You should consider a minimum of a two-nozzle system-one for the engine compartment and one for the passenger compartment. When relocating your battery-for... When relocating your battery-for more room in the engine compartment or to simply offset your vehicle's weight balance-if the battery is in the passenger compartment it needs to be secured in a battery box and vented to the outside of the car. A simple poly battery box, available from Summit Racing, Moroso, and others, will get the job done easily. A separate fire extinguisher, reachable from the driver seat, is a simple purchase that could save you, your car, or someone around you. A properly secured battery, remote battery cut-off, and more are all things to consider. Ultimately, the sanctioning body's rule book section on safety should be your bare minimum of requirements. Good luck and be safe!  An onboard fire-suppression...  An onboard fire-suppression system can either be automatic (temperature released) or manual (push- or pull-cable release). Generally a fire-suppression agent is stored in a cylinder mounted in the passenger compartment or trunk, and rigid tubing delivers the agent to nozzles located throughout the car. Of utmost importance is protecting the driver, but some install larger systems with extra nozzles in the front and rear of the car to minimize fire damage.  A dedicated fire-suppression...  A dedicated fire-suppression system might be overkill for a car you take to the track only a couple of times a year, but a fire can still happen at any time, which is why we recommend at the least having a portable fire extinguisher in your ride (frankly, we have one in every car we own). Dry-agent fire extinguishers can solidify over time, so we recommend removing your unit once a month and giving it a good shake for a few minutes. Better still, save your paint and the cleanup and use a HalGuard extinguisher from H3R Performance. Its clean-agent systems will kick any fire's butt and not make a mess doing it. The billet mounting brackets (rollbar-mount shown here) are even NHRA-legal.  A battery cutoff switch is...  A battery cutoff switch is required by many sanctioning bodies. The switch is usually mounted at the rear of the car, and is prominently marked with a decal so that safety crews can quickly kill power to the car in the event of an off-track incident.
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