Jonathan Garcia had a problem. His latest project car-an '07 Mustang GT convertible built to showcase Magden Technologies' latest creation, the M1 performance computer-was suffering from a few maladies. Not the computer, mind you. The centrally mounted touch screen allows Garcia to monitor every facet of the car's functions, thanks to a pair of Exhaust Gas Temperature sensors, O2 sensors, a vacuum boost sensor, and an air intake charge temperature sensor. All he has to do is tap the screen to access and record the information he needs, without requiring 10 million gauges bolted to the top of the dash.
No, the problem was more mechanically based. The car had received an aftermarket cold-air intake system with a K&N filter; a MagnaCharger-intercooled, positive-displacement supercharger; and a Bassani exhaust, including long-tube headers, an x-style crossover system with high-flow cats, axle-back high-flow mufflers, and big 3-inch tips. As a result of these upgrades, the car was cranking 417 hp to the tires, but in First and Second gear, the factory clutch was starting to slip, and as the days went by got progressively worse. Magden's goal of completing this Mustang as a fully running and driving project vehicle to demonstrate the effectiveness of the M1 meant the car would find its way into the hands of lead-foot editors and the like for evaluation. A slipping clutch was bad; imagine what it would be like after a few journalists had been let loose in the GT.
So Garcia needed a solution-fast. He wanted to install a clutch with much-improved clamping force over stock but didn't want a heavy pedal feel, as all manner of folks would be driving the car, under all kinds of conditions, including heavy city traffic. After a bit of research, a call was placed to Midway Industries, a company known better under the name of its primary product, Centerforce.
From the looks of things, a Dual-Friction clutch appeared to be just what the doctor ordered, so one smoggy morning in Southern California, the Mustang was taken to N&J Auto in El Monte, where shop owner Jackson Fung and tech Leo Palomino got to work. What follows is a diary of how things progressed.
Driving through greater Los...
Driving through greater Los Angeles traffic, the Mustang and its smoking clutch managed to arrive at N&J Auto relatively unscathed. The first thing we did was put the car on the hoist, raise it, and mark the driveshaft position so that when the time came, the shaft could be reinstalled as it came out.
It's time to drain out the...
It's time to drain out the old transmission fluid. The last thing you want when doing a clutch install is to be covered in this stuff. Here, Leo Palomino removes the factory drain plug and uses a catch can ready for when the Mercon/Dextron juice comes pouring out.
With the Tremec gearbox drained...
With the Tremec gearbox drained of fluid and the plug reinstalled, shop owner Jackson Fung and Palomino turn their attention to the starter, which needs to be removed in order to access the clutch and flywheel.
It's time to remove the driveshaft....
It's time to remove the driveshaft. First, the bolts at both the front and rear are loosened before carefully pulling out the heavy driveshaft and putting it to one side. (Note this is the stock two-piece driveshaft, which weighs more than 22 pounds.)
Because this Mustang was fitted...
Because this Mustang was fitted with multiple sensors to monitor operating parameters, care must be taken when removing them. Here, the exhaust-gas sensors are gently pulled out from the long-tube headers. These are delicate, so make sure you don't damage them, as they are costly to replace (especially in our case, as they're crucial to the operation of the H1 system).
Centerforce thoughtfully supplies...
Centerforce thoughtfully supplies a plug to seal the hydraulic-clutch fluid line once the line has been removed from the transmission bellhousing. It's a good idea to install it as soon as possible.
It's time to detach the shift...
It's time to detach the shift linkage from the transmission. Because S197 Mustangs have a remote setup that isn't attached directly to the gearbox, the mechanism can be disconnected from underneath the car.
We also need to remove the...
We also need to remove the front transmission support bar in order to pull out the gearbox. This actually proves quite tricky, because we don't have a lot of clearance due to the long-tube headers. It's particularly difficult to move the support past the exhaust hangers so we can pull it out. In hindsight, it would probably have been easier to remove the exhaust system, but you live and learn.
Before pulling out the transmission,...
Before pulling out the transmission, make sure that both it and the engine are properly supported; using jackstands is essential. Here, the tranny jack is put in place, ready to support the transmission once it's unbolted from the car.