Here's the complete kit from...
Here's the complete kit from MPG Head Service. All the flat stock is aluminum and the other hardware is all brushed steel.
The factory stampings that serve as the shock-tower-to-cowl braces on vintage Mustangs can leave something to be desired. However, they do play an important role in keeping the shock towers from moving. The stock components are inexpensive stampings, so they are prone to flexing given their light construction. The factory brace is difficult and time-consuming to remove, should you need to gain access to the rear portion of the engine bay. Pulling a cylinder head or doing other work such as clutch or exhaust means that these supports can be in the way.
MPG Head Service offers a slick solution to these drawbacks in the form of a Shock Tower Brace Kit for '67-'70 Mustangs. This kit adds strength plus the ability to adjust or preload the brace against the firewall. One end of each rod is reverse-threaded. A simple twist shortens or lengthens the strut rod. Each end has a lock or jamb nut, and each end is equipped with a hardened-steel-construction spherical end joint. Quick release pins afford instant removal of the strut rods, so quick access to the engine bay and cylinder heads results, which can be a big advantage. Installing this kit doesn't look tough, and the components look to be excellent quality. Let's see what it takes to install the kit on a buddy's '69 Mustang.
The Facts
MPG Head Service Shock Tower Brace kit
Suggested retail price: $149.95
Installation Time
About 1½ to 2 hours with handtools

This close-up of a strut-rod...

This close-up of a strut-rod end shows the jamb nut to lock the threaded adjustment and the spherical end joint.

This large plate bolts to...

This large plate bolts to the cowl directly at the base of the windshield using the factory location and fasteners.

This plate is affixed to the...

This plate is affixed to the top of the shock tower beneath the shock-mounting bracket. The quick release pins are seen clearly here, as is the excellent-quality welding.

Begin the task by disconnecting...

Begin the task by disconnecting the shock absorber at the top.

Remove the three fasteners...

Remove the three fasteners that retain both the shock upper mounting bracket and the forward end of the tower-to-cowl brace.

We removed the four large...

We removed the four large factory bolts at the cowl end of the struts.

Now it's a simple task to...

Now it's a simple task to remove the old factory brace from the car.

The upper shock-absorber-mounting...

The upper shock-absorber-mounting bracket needs to be removed.

The new MPG Head Service brackets...

The new MPG Head Service brackets are an exact fit over the factory studs.

Replace the factory shock-mounting...

Replace the factory shock-mounting bracket and nuts. The perfect amount of thread will remain on the studs for attachment.

The upper end of the shock...

The upper end of the shock absorber can now be reattached to the mounting bracket.

Repeat the whole procedure...

Repeat the whole procedure for the other side of the car. Here, the right-side factory strut comes away from the car.

Use the factory nuts and bolts...

Use the factory nuts and bolts to install the cowl bracket into position. You'll want these heavy fasteners to be nice and tight.

These quick-release pins have...

These quick-release pins have a spring-loaded check ball to hold them in place once installed. Remove all four as shown here.

We began our strut installation...

We began our strut installation at the rear and replaced the retaining pin.

We adjusted the length of...

We adjusted the length of the strut by turning the spherical end in or out. Once the exact length was found, we installed the strut at the tower end and secured the retaining pin.

With both ends anchored, we...

With both ends anchored, we rotated the rod to lengthen it a small amount. This was done to remove any slack and to preload the strut. We want the preload to exert a slight expansion force to hold the shock towers rigid with respect to the cowl and firewall. Once the desired tension was reached, the lock nuts were seated to hold the adjustment.

This shows out completed installation....

This shows out completed installation. It's functional, and it looks trick, too.