If you're satisfied with a factory orange peel look, color-sanding and a good rubout aren't necessary. But if you are seeking a show-car persona, a good color-sanding and rubout are the only way to go. When we color-sand the clearcoat surface with 1000-, 1500- or 2000- grit paper and lots of water, we are scoring the surface in preparation for the rubout. Color-sanding is actually a disappointing step because it dulls the finish. We've taken a shiny surface and wet-sanded it dull--which tends to alarm us. But, it shouldn't. With qualified hands and skill on a buffer, the scored surface will come alive in a matter of minutes.
Once color-sanding is complete and we have a dull surface, the rubout comes next with two types of rubbing compound: one fine and the other very fine. Here's how it all comes together to achieve a show-car shine.
Here's what we need, aside...
Here's what we need, aside from talent, to get our Mustang in the buff.We begin the cut with 3M's 05996 Foam Polishing Pad Glaze and a buffingwheel. After that, we fine-tune the rubout with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze,which is a finer-grit abrasive. We rub out with a foam pad for, well, amirror finish.
Ruben begins the color-sanding...
Ruben begins the color-sanding with plenty of water and 1500-2000-gritpaper. He carries his strokes back and forth, and at right angles,taking extra care to be sure he doesn't rub the clearcoat down to thepaint, basecoat, or primer. Any of these is unthinkable because it wouldmean painting the area all over again.
The freshly color-sanded surface...
The freshly color-sanded surface looks dull, which is exactly what wewant from the color-sanding. All surfaces should look like this aftercolor-sanding.