Mix and Match Modular
I took a ’99 Lincoln Continental 4.6L engine and added a Mustang Cobra intake, and an ’03/’04 Mach 1 crankshaft and flexplate to get a unique automatic 4.6L 32-valve “Cobra” engine. Will this actually work? My biggest nightmare is I screwed something up during the build. The engine does turn over with the starter. I have not yet installed the crankshaft damper/pulley. I have two and I’m not sure which one would work. The Lincoln Continental timing cover is different, to say the least, from the Cobra version, so who knows how well all the pulleys work together.
Nick (last name withheld)
The 4.6L crankshafts are all internally balanced, which means they don’t rely on a 28- or 50-ounce balance flywheel/damper combo like the small-block Ford crankshaft. You should be OK with what you have done. The only thing I caution is the torque-to-yield bolts in the connecting rods and the engine’s main bearing caps. Torque to yield means that the bolts stretch as they are torqued and they don’t stretch again if you try to reuse them. I’ve heard builders say the connecting rod bolts can be used up to three times, but my Ford shop manual says to discard the bolts any time they are disassembled. ARP sells the bolts you want. The rod bolts under PN 256-6301 and the main bearing cap bolts are PN 156-5001. As far as the damper, either the Continental or the Mach 1 should work. It depends on whether or not you want to run a six- or eight-rib front drive (your ’99 and ’03 Mach should be a six-rib belt, only the eight-rib pulleys were used on supercharger applications). You could go to the aftermarket and get an underdrive or overdrive damper, but the Lincoln pulley should work for you just fine.
I’m a fan of your magazine from Australia. I was wondering whether anyone could enlighten me on where to obtain the wheels featured on this car featured on your website; www.mustangandfords.com/featured vehicles/1964_1973_mustang/mdmp_ 1010_1969_ford_mustang_gt_sportsroof_ modified/photo_07.html. Also, what is the best way to look at wheel options for a ’69 Mustang? It seems that 9 out of 10 Mustangs have Magnum 500s and I want some aluminum wheels for my Cobra Jet.
The wheels on that feature car are the anthracite 20x9 American Racing Shelby Razors. The good people at Tire Rack carry them (www.tirerack.com). Type in Razor at the site search and it should take you right to the options (silver, chrome, and anthracite).
As far as the best way to look for wheels, I suggest you start by reading this article from April 2010 at www.mustang andfords.com/techarticles/suspension/mdmp_1004_wheel_fitment_tips/viewall.html. This tech article from the November 2006 issue at www.mustang andfords.com/techarticles/suspension/mufp_0612_ford_mustang_wheel_ fitment/viewall.html is another good source of information as well.
Most of the new designs coming out are catering to the late-model Mustangs, so be careful when selecting wheels. Some of the very deep wheels can touch the upper ball joints or other suspension components, requiring you to run offset wheel spacers for clearance. A general rule of thumb is the late-model wheels are at least 1 inch wider on the backspace than the original wheels. Many wheel manufacturers now make two-piece wheels that allow you to set the offset for your early car.
Dave, what was the first Ford to come out with four-wheel disc brakes?
Dave (last name withheld)
Unless this is a trick question, I think the first four-wheel disc brake system came out with the late ’70s Lincoln Versailles. I’m trying to think of an earlier application, but I just can’t. The Corvette came out with four-wheel discs in ’65, and the Mustang got its first four-wheel disc setup with the introduction of the ’84 SVO right? Am I missing one somewhere?
Boss Engine Swap
I have a ’70 Boss 302 almost ready for installation in my ’65 Mustang and have a question. Will this fit in the engine compartment using the factory cast-iron exhaust? I have had no luck acquiring headers. It will have a built C4 automatic transmission with a 347 stroker kit with 0.060-over pistons at 10.0:1-plus compression, so it will be a good street runner even with the large cast-iron exhaust. The exhaust and intake will have stainless floor inserts for improved low-end performance. Do you have any lead on where some headers can be hiding that will work? I searched but no luck. Hooker still has headers for the ’70 Mustang, but I have no way of knowing if they would fit without cutting, welding, or installing a whole new front end. So I’m stuck with the cast-iron exhaust in the hope that they will fit. I can’t afford to ship my car to Washington (state) for custom work.
Via the Internet
The cast-iron manifolds should fit your ’65 Mustang chassis, but don’t bother with them—you need a set of headers. I think the link to Washington you are talking about is Ford Powertrain Applications (www.fordpowertrain.com), and they list a Boss 302 header in a ’65 chassis (#8 on their list). I used a set of its small-block Yates port headers before and they are very nice. I am sure if you call them they can assure you that they will fit.
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