Factory Five Roadster Body Install - Project Snake Charmer Part: 12
There are plenty of available options for horns, from aftermarket European-sounding units to standard domestic "hi/lo" setups. Of course, your choice will determine your final mounting setup, but if you use the standard donor-Mustang horn setup, a nice out-of-the-way place to install it is above the driver-side towhook bracket behind the radiator. Just remember that the mounting point for these horns (as with most horns) is also the horn's ground path. | 
The FFR instructions for the included fan call for a simple dash toggle switch to turn the fan on when needed. We thought it would be a safer bet to have the fan's power controlled by an automatic temperature sensor, so we installed SPAL's fan-controller (PN FAN-PWM, $89.95) and fan-temperature switch (PN FAN-PWM-TS, $29.95). The SPAL controller turns on the fan at 50 percent power once the set low temperature is reached and then goes to full power when your high temperature is reached. | 
The SPAL controller features a built-in fan relay and LED indicators from the adjustable high and low fan-speed actuation. The SPAL controller can even be controlled by your gauge sender, though we opted for its own temperature sensor for a plug-in installation, shown here mounted in the bottom of our Forte's Parts Connection degas tank. | 
With the fan hardware, horn, and light locations mapped out, we began to route our front body wiring from the driver's foot-box area to the left front of the chassis; then across the radiator support to the passenger side. We used more of our Mr. Gasket Flexible Wiring Covering kit (PN 4457, $23) wire-loom retainers riveted in strategic areas along the frame and two push-type retainers on the top of the radiator itself. | 
While the headlight switch we're using from FFR's carbureted wiring-kit option includes a built-in circuit breaker, we thought it best to completely take the load off the headlight switch and use relays for the low- and high-beam headlights. This little corner of the engine compartment was a nice spot to mount the two relays and finish our initial wire routing up front. | 
With the front of the car completely wired, it was time to test all circuits before wrapping the harness. We plugged in the headlights, turn/marker lights, horn, and fan, hooked up the battery, and plugged in the dash. Everything worked-including high- and low-beam actuation, parking and turn lights, horn, and fan-on the first try. We're getting jazzed now! | 
WIth the wiring job working and all routing finalized, it was time to remove the harness from the car and cover it properly. The harness comes off the car by unplugging the accessory items and removing the harness section from the fuse box. | 
As you can see by this series of images, the harness has been routed and secured into sections with tie-wraps. Plastic high-temp convolute and T-junctions from our Mr. Gasket wiring kit are used as the initial protection for the wiring. | 
Finally, the complete harness is tightly wrapped with harness tape from RJM Injection Technologies to make it waterproof. |
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