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Factory Five Roadster Cooling System Install - Project Snake Charmer: Part 10Dash, Pedals, Cooling System, and More From the March, 2007 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Mark Houlahan Photography by Mark Houlahan
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Our Cobra replica project is nearing completion, and it has been a great experience so far. We always chat up fellow attendees when hitting the local cruise nights and shows, and we've received great feedback on our project. Some people ask why we didn't put an FE in the project or why we didn't go the true donor route. We tell them that, as in any project, it is yours; do what you want. Don't be compelled to do what everyone else does, or build/restore/restomod something a certain way because that's what is expected of you. Be original, be creative, and best of all-be true to yourself. There's nothing wrong with a low-buck donor build with a single four-barrel carb. There's also nothing wrong with a full, period-correct build with an FE, Top Loader, Smiths gauges, and all the trimmings. We don't wish to scare anyone away from a budget build with donor parts, but our project is being built the way we want our Roadster to perform and look when it is finished. This month we're tackling a few of the smaller subsections now that the full drivetrain is in. With the engine and transmission in place, we can start routing the electrical components and route the chassis wiring. Before we really get into the wiring, however, the dash needs to be configured and test fit. We need to get the pedals into the foot box (can't mount the fuse box if we don't know where the pedals will end up), and we'll also tackle the cooling system now that the engine is in. This way, we can go full bore on the wiring next month and then it's just a few odds and ends (brake lines, driveshaft, wipers, body components, and so on) before we send the body and chassis off for painting. The FFR Roadster comes with a precut dashpanel to use either the donor gauges from a Mustang, any 4-inch replica gauge, or even a standard 3 3/8-inch aftermarket gauge. Since we're not going for concours accuracy here (if anything, we want accurate gauges over accurate looks), we splurged on a complete brace of Auto Meter Cobalt gauges. These slick-looking gauges are available as an electric version with high-performance air-core needle movement and a full-sweep face that gives more information and is easier to read, as well as standard electric and mechanical styles. They are lit through the face like an OEM gauge with blue LED lighting. Auto Meter offers all sorts of gauge types in the Cobalt line. Besides the electric speedometer (PN 6288; $249.95) and electric tachometer (PN 6297; $169.95) we filled the center of the dash with Cobalt oil pressure (PN 6153; $199.95), oil temperature (PN 6156; $130.95), water temperature (PN 6155; $130.95), voltmeter (PN 6191; $99.95), and the programmable fuel level (PN 6114; $109.95). To further complement the dash design, we're using a stock '65-'66 Mustang ignition switch (easy to wire and has a '60s-period flare), as well as wiper and headlight ID rings-also from the '65-'66 Mustang, which we scored through Virginia Classic Mustang. For the pedals, we used a '96 Mustang pedal-box assembly from All Mustang Recycling, with new components from Texas Mustang to spiff it up. When we got to the cooling system part of the build, we called upon Forte's Parts Connection for a degas tank, and ffmetal.com for an aluminum fan shroud. Next month, we'll get deep into our wiring and get the Roadster ready for those last-minute upgrades and back-ordered parts before we head off to the paint shop. Check out this month's build progress in the photos and remember to check out our weekly updates online at our Web site's build diary.  The stock precut dash from...  The stock precut dash from Factory Five is set up for the standard street 427-gauge layout. Some people prefer the competition-gauge layout with the speedometer in the center of the dash, while others start with a bare dashpanel and let their imaginations run on gauge and switch placement. We used the precut dash with a few small variations. Here, we mock up the Auto Meter Cobalt gauge placement. Notice at this angle, simulating the driver's line of sight, the gauges are a little cut off from view.  In the Auto Meter catalog,...  In the Auto Meter catalog, we spotted some gauge angle rings (PN 2234; $8.95). We picked up two packages of them to turn the center gauges towards the driver. The kit comes with different gauge retainers that you cut with a paper template for the gauge to mount correctly. Here's one completed next to the existing flat mounted gauge.  The final process of angling...  The final process of angling the center gauges definitely helps the driver's viewpoint of being able to quickly scan the gauges for any concerns. Dash Assembly and Wiring... While Factory Five does offer...  While Factory Five does offer an ignition switch kit for those going non-donor, we opted for something a little more "Ford" by using a regular '65-'66 Mustang ignition switch setup. We rang Virginia Classic Mustang for the ignition switch (PN IN-71; $9.95), the Ignition Switch Spacer (PN IN-773; $ 6.95), the Ignition Switch Bezel (PN IN-76; $8.95), and the Ignition Switch Cylinder (PN IN-508; $10.95). We also picked up a Headlight Switch Bezel (PN IN-85; $8.50) and Wiper Switch Bezel (PN IN-86; $8.50) to further dress up the dash with a '60s look.  We used the precut hole for...  We used the precut hole for the horn pushbutton to mount our Mustang ignition switch. The hole needed some minor enlarging, along with a pair of notches cut into the panel to locate the ignition-switch chrome bezel in the proper orientation, but otherwise it will work great. Our horn button will be located a little higher on the dashpanel.  With all of our switches,...  With all of our switches, gauges, and such figured out, the dashpanel was disassembled in preparation for applying the padded vinyl dashpad included with the kit. Ensure the aluminum dashpanel is clean (we scuffed it with a Scotchbrite pad and then cleaned it with lacquer thinner). We followed the cleaning steps with three coats of 3M spray adhesive (allowing ample drying time between each coat) on the dashpanel and the vinyl padding. You'll notice the black tick mark on the vinyl dashpad. This was something we added prior to applying the spray glue to orient the dash and pad together once we're ready to attach the two.  Once the dashpad is glued...  Once the dashpad is glued to the aluminum dashpanel and allowed to set up, carefully cut out the gauge, switch, and light openings. Resist the temptation to make pie cuts for the gauge holes. Instead, cut the vinyl padding about 3/8 inch shy of the metal hole. This will leave a padded "ring" that will place tension on the gauge assembly and give you a nice, clean assembly. Continue with the remaining holes in your dash.  Since the '65-'66 Mustang...  Since the '65-'66 Mustang ignition switch wiring connector is not available as a separate item from the main dash harness, you'll need to use insulated female spade terminals to connect the dash wiring to the switch. We went one step further and created a small harness from the ignition switch using a four-pin Deutsch connector from MSD (PN 8187; $34.21). The wiring connections on the back of the ignition switch are, from the top (clockwise): ignition out (pink), battery in (red), start out (purple). The center stud is accessory power (brown), which we capped with a rubber plug for safety.  We finalized the rest of the...  We finalized the rest of the dash wiring using two more 12-pin Deutsch connectors (PN 8186; $26.73). While there are undoubtedly cheaper multi-pin connectors out there, we believe the security of the Deutsch connector and the weatherproof connection are extremely important in an open roadster.  Here's a shot of the front...  Here's a shot of the front of the 98-percent-completed dash. We say 98 percent because in this photo we have yet to mount the wiper switch (which will be to the right of the lower warning lights) or the horn button (which will be above and to the left of the ignition switch). As we said before, the dash layout is limited only by your imagination and wallet. We've seen some interesting dash layouts out there. Pedal-Box Cleaning and Fitment Moving on to the pedal-box...  Moving on to the pedal-box refurbishment and installation, we have here the donor '96 Mustang pedal box just as it came out of some poor, lifeless Mustang at the All Mustang Recycling facility. This baby needs a coat of paint and a few goodies before we can bolt it into our Roadster project.  For starters, we'll strip...  For starters, we'll strip the pedal box down to the bare framework and inspect everything. First to go is the stock plastic clutch quadrant adjuster. A billet unit allowing external adjustment will replace this.  On the newer pedal-box assemblies...  On the newer pedal-box assemblies there's a stud in the lower right corner, and these captured spacers that need to be pitched, before the pedal box will mount to the Roadster's forward foot-box wall. The stud can be pressed or hammered out, while simply bending the corners down, pulling out the spacers, and then bending the corners back into place.  With a quick pass through...  With a quick pass through the blast cabinet, a coat of primer is applied before we go any further. Test fitting the pedal box using the kit-supplied mounting hardware will visually confirm if any further modifications need to be made, such as enlarging a mounting hole or trimming an ear.  Once the pedal box is properly...  Once the pedal box is properly trimmed for our setup, a coat of black chassis paint is applied to the box and the clutch and brake pedal arms. The clutch and brake pedal arms are then reinstalled with new Bullitt pedal pads from Texas Mustang (PN F4MS-0002301B-M, $18.95 each).  The fully assembled pedal...  The fully assembled pedal box with both pedals and all switches is installed for another test fit. This time we've added our custom billet-aluminum gas-pedal assembly from Russ Thompson [rtcobra@comcast.net; (510) 234-7376], modified to use a Bullitt accelerator-pedal pad from Texas Mustang (PN F4MS-0002301A-M; $19.95). Russ sells custom Factory Five products through his company, Russ's Garage, and his throttle pedal comes highly recommended for smooth actuation, adjustability, and for being less sensitive than the suggested Mustang gas-pedal arm.  We found the brake pedal a...  We found the brake pedal a little too close to Russ's gas pedal (a common problem even with the stock Mustang gas pedal), so we slightly bent the pedal arms for more room. There are several ways to do this, including removing the pedal arm and bending it in a vise. We heard about these nifty steel pedal bender tools on the FFR forum at www.ffcobra.com and borrowed one (you have to get on a list for your geographic location).  While you can often bend the...  While you can often bend the pedals right in the car, we had to remove the pedal box to get a bit more room. Even with that, it took us maybe 15 minutes to move the brake pedal over a little less than 2 inches and the clutch pedal about an inch. Compare the first photo of the mounted pedals (below left) with the last one (above right) to see the difference. Cooling-System Installation When building a Factory Five...  When building a Factory Five without a donor, there are a lot of things to consider, such as fasteners, brackets, and other items that are supposed to come from the donor disassembly. One item you are supposed to use is the Mustang's fan shroud. Since we didn't have one, we had the option of purchasing a replacement shroud from a Mustang vendor or Ford dealer (or finding a used one), or going another route. When we saw the So Fast fan shroud for the FFR aluminum radiator ($99 plus $10 shipping) on the ffmetal.com Web site, we thought it was the perfect answer and would look the part on a Cobra. We even had it powdercoated to match our other engine-compartment parts. The shroud is easily installed with rivets or screws. Here, the kit-supplied electric fan has been installed to the shroud, which we are riveting directly to the radiator mounting ears.  The radiator we're using is...  The radiator we're using is an optional all-aluminum piece sold by Factory Five (PN 14031; $220). It is manufactured by Afco to FFR's specs and has the inlet and outlet fittings properly sized and positioned for the Roadster. The radiator is attached to the frame at the top and to the aluminum panels at the bottom. We used a floor jack to carefully hold the radiator in place for marking the mounting points. Note we temporarily clamped the aluminum nose panels in place to determine the proper radiator angle.  The radiator top mounting...  The radiator top mounting is usually comprised of a couple of tapping screws through the radiator mounting ears and into the frame. We decided to go one better and install riv-nuts into the frame, and then use 1/4-20 stainless bolts and washers from Totally Stainless.  There's more than one way...  There's more than one way to configure the cooling-hose routing, but with the radiator so deep into the nose of the Roadster, you will have to use some sort of filler neck or degas tank to properly fill the cooling system. We love the clean look and fit of this Forte's Parts Connection degas tank ($150) for the Roadster. It mounts on the passenger-side F-panel and allows easy filling of the cooling system and even has a 31/48-NPT hole in the bottom for a cooling-fan thermostatic switch or other sensor. The hose from the water neck to the degas tank is a stock 5.0 Mustang upper hose, cut down. The hose from the tank to the radiator is a Dayco (PN 70965), also cut to fit, and the routing is clean. Later, we'll cover our hoses with more of Mr. Gasket's G-Sleeve for some fancy looks.  The FFR instructions state...  The FFR instructions state to attach a standard 5.0 Mustang lower hose to the water pump and then to the company's provided lower hose via the 4-inch aluminum coupler tube that comes with the kit. We purchased said hose from our local auto-parts store, and we weren't crazy about the fit/routing of it. With a little research in the hose department, we came up with this Dayco (PN 70557) that fit much better and had a much better routing.
 | Project Snake Charmer is finished and on the road Check out the diary for more! |  | We'd like to introduce you to Mustang & Fords' new project, Project Snake Charmer |  | We Go Back to School-and Like It! The Factory Five Racing Cobra Roadster Kit Car Buildup Series Continues At The Build School. |  | Our Factory Five Roadster Suspension Finds Its Way to Our Frame |  | Our Factory Five Roadster gets its motivation from a Smeding Performance 427 |  | We install and prepare the aluminum panels for Project Snake Charmer |  | Our Factory Five Roadster gets a Drivetrain Specialtists rear end for Project Snake Charmer |  | Our project becomes a roller with brakes, wheels, and tires |  | Project Snake Charmer receives an EFI based fuel system to feed the snake |  | Our Factory Five Racing Roadster recieves a Smeding Performance 427 Windsor and a Tremec Transmission |  | Our Factory Five Roadster gets a new dash, pedals, and cooling system |  | Installing the Factory Five Racing wiring harness on our Project Snake Charmer Cobra Roadster Replica |  | We finish up the wiring and then turn towards starting the body on our Factory Five Roadster Project Car |  | Installing hydroboost brakes on our Project Snake Charmer Factory Five Roadster before painting |  | Project Snake Charmer Factory Five Roadster heads off for paint |  | Our Factory Five Roadster Begins the Paint Process |  | Our Cobra Replica's Almost Ready For Paint |
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