Dash Assembly and Wiring...
While Factory Five does offer an ignition switch kit for those going non-donor, we opted for something a little more "Ford" by using a regular '65-'66 Mustang ignition switch setup. We rang Virginia Classic Mustang for the ignition switch (PN IN-71; $9.95), the Ignition Switch Spacer (PN IN-773; $ 6.95), the Ignition Switch Bezel (PN IN-76; $8.95), and the Ignition Switch Cylinder (PN IN-508; $10.95). We also picked up a Headlight Switch Bezel (PN IN-85; $8.50) and Wiper Switch Bezel (PN IN-86; $8.50) to further dress up the dash with a '60s look. | 
We used the precut hole for the horn pushbutton to mount our Mustang ignition switch. The hole needed some minor enlarging, along with a pair of notches cut into the panel to locate the ignition-switch chrome bezel in the proper orientation, but otherwise it will work great. Our horn button will be located a little higher on the dashpanel. | 
With all of our switches, gauges, and such figured out, the dashpanel was disassembled in preparation for applying the padded vinyl dashpad included with the kit. Ensure the aluminum dashpanel is clean (we scuffed it with a Scotchbrite pad and then cleaned it with lacquer thinner). We followed the cleaning steps with three coats of 3M spray adhesive (allowing ample drying time between each coat) on the dashpanel and the vinyl padding. You'll notice the black tick mark on the vinyl dashpad. This was something we added prior to applying the spray glue to orient the dash and pad together once we're ready to attach the two. |
Once the dashpad is glued to the aluminum dashpanel and allowed to set up, carefully cut out the gauge, switch, and light openings. Resist the temptation to make pie cuts for the gauge holes. Instead, cut the vinyl padding about 31/48 inch shy of the metal hole. This will leave a padded "ring" that will place tension on the gauge assembly and give you a nice, clean assembly. Continue with the remaining holes in your dash. | 
Since the '65-'66 Mustang ignition switch wiring connector is not available as a separate item from the main dash harness, you'll need to use insulated female spade terminals to connect the dash wiring to the switch. We went one step further and created a small harness from the ignition switch using a four-pin Deutsch connector from MSD (PN 8187; $34.21). The wiring connections on the back of the ignition switch are, from the top (clockwise): ignition out (pink), battery in (red), start out (purple). The center stud is accessory power (brown), which we capped with a rubber plug for safety. | 
We finalized the rest of the dash wiring using two more 12-pin Deutsch connectors (PN 8186; $26.73). While there are undoubtedly cheaper multi-pin connectors out there, we believe the security of the Deutsch connector and the weatherproof connection are extremely important in an open roadster. |
Here's a shot of the front of the 98-percent-completed dash. We say 98 percent because in this photo we have yet to mount the wiper switch (which will be to the right of the lower warning lights) or the horn button (which will be above and to the left of the ignition switch). As we said before, the dash layout is limited only by your imagination and wallet. We've seen some interesting dash layouts out there. | | |