Factory Five Roadster Build Part 9: Engine And Transmission Install

The Tremec-based bellhousing comes with a clutch-fork pivot stud pre-fitted, but you will have to source your own clutch fork and clutch-release bearing. Our release bearing came from Centerforce (PN N1714; $34.95), and the clutch fork is a stock Ford replacement from Dallas Mustang (PN 9769; $41.99). Ensure the bearing is seated properly on the fork during installation.

When you have a lot of power in a light car, a high-effort clutch with a lot of clamping force isn't necessary. Due to the weight of the vehicle, you'll most likely be spinning tires before you slip a clutch. We wanted a nice stock-type pedal feel with the aid of a bit more clamping power, so we chose the Centerforce Dual Friction line (PN DF161830; $349.95) for our drivetrain. The clutch features a sprung hub for good road manners and dual friction surfaces. The included alignment tool helps locate the clutch disc for assembly.

The Centerforce patented pressure plate with its centrifugal weights is mounted to our flywheel and the pressure-plate bolts are tightened to their specs in small increments in a crosswise pattern to carefully draw the pressure plate down to the flywheel.

With the clutch assembly complete, we mate our Smeding 427 to our Tremec TKO-600 and let them get acquainted. Leaving the transmission on a mobile workbench, we used our Powerbuilt engine hoist and engine leveler to match the bellhousing to the engine block, and carefully brought them together. Once mated, a Totally Stainless bellhousing bolt kit (PN 6-0939; $4.65) was utilized to hold everything together. We also installed our Tuff Stuff Performance Accessories PMGR starter (PN 6124B; $160) and used a Totally Stainless bolt kit (PN6-0533, $1.10).

A short pickup-truck ride later, we had the engine/trans combo and the Powerbuilt engine hoist sitting in the driveway at home, where the majority of the Roadster's build has been happening. With the aid of a few neighbors, we had the drivetrain in the chassis in less than 10 minutes. The Powerbuilt engine leveler made the job easy.

The FFR Roadster's pedal-box setup is designed around the late-model Mustang version; we're using one from a '96 Mustang. Due to this design, the clutch actuation is also derived from a similar year.

We used an adjustable clutch-cable setup from Dallas Mustang, including a billet clutch quadrant with cable (PN 8988; $59.99) and a billet firewall adjuster for fine-tuning the clutch pedal (PN 8999; $34.95).

The clutch cable uses a crimped-on retaining bracket to support the cable. Since there's no "framerail" as on the Mustang, this bracket doesn't easily bolt to anything. However, after bending it slightly and drilling the mounting hole out to the next biggest size, it was easy to mount the bracket to the timing cover to give the cable extra support.

At the transmission, the cable passes through the bellhousing, where it is retained with a clip from Dallas Mustang (PN 8690; $.99), and then the cable passes through the clutch fork. The adjustable cable has a threaded ball end that is tightened to take the slack out of the cable. We've left off the clutch-fork cover for now so we can tune/readjust the clutch as we put some break-in miles on it.