Factory Five Roadster Build Part 9: Engine And Transmission Install

Rupert's adapters are precision-machined aluminum and easily attach to your small-block head with a series of screws that are siliconed in place. Then the FE valve-cover gasket is applied over the valve-cover studs that we already installed in the adapters.

For valve covers, there are plenty of choices for FE applications, and they will all work with these adapters, even the chrome-steel pent-roof variety. We opted for the "Cobra-Le Mans" black crinkle finish valve covers (PN VC12; $173.95) to match our Cobra air-filter housing (PN AC01; $119.95), all of which came from Tony D. Branda.

For cooling, a high-flow aluminum water pump is your best bet. The timing cover used and whether you want to retain a serpentine beltdrive (reverse rotation) or V-beltdrive (standard rotation) will determine what water pump is required. We chose the black powdercoated "Super Cool" reverse rotation water pump from Tuff Stuff Performance Accessories (PN 1594; $90).

Our plan is to use power steering and an aftermarket hydro-boost braking system in our Roadster build. We picked up a power-steering pump, complete with reservoir, from Dallas Mustang (PN 7394; $69.99). We then dressed it up with a chrome trim kit, also from Dallas Mustang (PN 7949; $29.95). Lastly, we installed the March Performance power-steering pump bracket and pulley from our serpentine conversion kit (PN 30126; $555.95).

The power-steering pump attaches to the engine via Allen-head cap screws supplied in the serpentine conversion kit. These bolts pass through the water pump and timing cover and into the block.

The rest of the March Performance kit is installed, including the water pump pulley, crank pulley, and tension rod. Also seen here is Tuff-Stuff Performance Accessories' 150-amp 3G alternator (PN 7771B6G; $189). A bolt or two from the March kit did not work with our larger-case alternator, but the guys at March knew exactly what we needed when we called, and they sent the new bolts right out.

Our finished engine is looking good now that we added the Mallory plug wires and Cobra air-cleaner assembly. We even threw on the FFR 4-into-4 headers for some more bling.

No, your eyes are not deceiving you; we're cutting into a brand-new $1,800 transmission. Due to the frame design of the FFR Roadster, an aftermarket Tremec transmission-such as the TKO-600 we're using-requires a bit of clearancing in order to fit cleanly. The tailshaft ear that is not used in this (or any Ford) application is cut off flush with the bottom of the main tailshaft casting.

Most people typically install the bellhousing over the clutch assembly and then install the transmission. Since we're assembling the engine and transmission outside the car, it is not a problem to mount the bellhousing to the transmission first. Our TKO-600 requires a bellhousing with the proper bolt pattern (a stock T5 bellhousing will not work). While there are several SFI-approved bellhousings, they are quite tight in the Roadster chassis and require modification. We chose the Tremec aluminum bellhousing, which is machined to closer tolerances and does not need to be indexed. We got ours through Dallas Mustang (PN 8393; $199.95). If you want the safety of an SFI housing, you can use a safety blanket around it.