Factory Five Roadster Build Part 8 - EFI Fuel System
When using AN fittings and...
When using AN fittings and their related hoses, many people use the stainless braided line, which requires a special two-piece fitting and a lot of attention to assembly for the fittings to work properly.
A much simpler, yet still...
A much simpler, yet still effective, way to plumb your fuel system with AN fittings is by utilizing Push-On hose. Push-On hose is capable of handling up to 250 psi of pressure, and uses one-piece fittings that push into the end of the hose once it has been cut to length.
Mr. Gasket carries a complete...
Mr. Gasket carries a complete line of Push-On hose and fittings for any fuel-system project. Our Roadster was plumbed with one 25-foot box of -6 Push-On hose (PN R256; $70) with a few feet to spare. For fittings, we used Mr. Gasket's line of new Shadow Series fittings for Push-On hose. Their killer black and titanium look gives an upscale appearance to any plumbing job.
Partway through the fuel-system...
Partway through the fuel-system portion of the project, we discovered the pre-'94 Mustang used a fuel-pump assembly with a 5/16-inch feed line (which is what we installed on our project). For improved fuel flow, Ford upgraded the '94 Mustang with a 3/8-inch feed for the fuel pump. Once again, All Mustang Recycling came to the rescue and sent us a '94/'95 pump bracket with the larger feed line for us to swap out.
To attach the -6 AN fittings...
To attach the -6 AN fittings on the Push-On hose to the OE bundy tube of the fuel-pump bracket, we used a neat product from Aeroquip called the Versil-Flare. The Versil-Flare uses a special compression fitting for steel tubing that doesn't require a hard flare. Mixing and matching fittings allows you to go up or down in size as you connect the AN line to the steel tube.
Determining the routing of...
Determining the routing of the pressure and return lines along the frame is a little tricky, especially at the rear where you have to work around moving suspension components. We secured the lines every 10 inches with rubber-coated line clamps and 3/16-inch rivets. Check with your state laws for home-built vehicles, as some define the minimum and maximum spacing for line retention.
With the fuel lines routed...
With the fuel lines routed to the front of the chassis, we left the lines loose until the engine was installed so we could properly measure, cut, and route the lines to the fuel rails and pressure regulator. We didn't want to mount the regulator now and then find out it was in the way of something else once the engine was in.
Trying to keep the engine...
Trying to keep the engine compartment as clean as possible, we found a logical place on the frame beneath the firewall for the fuel-pressure regulator that kept it somewhat hidden from view, yet still accessible for adjustments. Another riv-nut and stainless mounting bolt took care of the mounting chores.
With the regulator bracket...
With the regulator bracket installed (and the engine as well, but that's next month's installment), we bolted the Mallory regulator (PN 4305M; $99) into place and finished our fuel-line routing. The Mallory regulator is perfect for high-pressure EFI systems, and features a vacuum port for boost compensation and a fuel-pressure gauge port (we added a Summit 0-100 liquid-filled gauge; PN SUM-800299; $16.95).
The more visible fuel lines...
The more visible fuel lines going to the fuel rails were covered in Mr. Gasket's G-Sleeve hose covering with a simulated carbon-fiber look (PN 11004C; $33).
Mr. Gasket Company
10601 Memphis Ave., #12