|
|
 The fuel pump we'll be using...  The fuel pump we'll be using for our dyno testing is a Holley unit, PN 12-927. It is good for 255 lph and costs $139.88. This type of pump can easily be used in classic Ford EFI conversions with either hose barb or AN fittings.  Holley is also the supplier...  Holley is also the supplier of this fuel-pressure regulator. Correct and constant fuel pressure is the basis for reliable fuel injection, and the ability to adjust fuel pressure for tuning is a must. This universal EFI unit retails for $179.88.  Part of the Mass-Flo EFI package,...  Part of the Mass-Flo EFI package, Mallory Ignition will handle all ignition chores for the project. The Mallory distributor is a proven unit and uses the standard Ford-style TFI (Thick Film Ignition) connection, which plugs directly into the Mass-Flo harness. A Mallory coil will be used as well and also plugs right in.  Assembly begins in the balance...  Assembly begins in the balance room and our crankshaft is shown here being spin checked. Any imbalance detected will be shown on the computer screen and the appropriate action taken. For any weight reduction, material will be removed from the required counterweight with the vertical drill.  The connecting rods are sorted...  The connecting rods are sorted through and checked for balance in two ways. First, all rods in the engine should be of identical weight. To accomplish this, the machinist takes the lightest rod and the rest are reduced in weight to match. The rods are also checked for weight distribution between the big and small ends. Here the small end of a rod is being weighed. All rods should have equivalent mass percentages at both ends from one rod to the next for all eight rods. Verify this stuff now and you'll get a smooth running engine that will stay together.  The crank-saddle diameter...  The crank-saddle diameter is checked with a dial indicator. Every important tolerance in the engine is double-checked before assembly. Next, the crankshaft journal will be measured and subtracted from the main bearing dimension to determine if the clearance is within acceptable limits. The desired clearance is 0.0025 inch.  For each cylinder, a special...  For each cylinder, a special tool is used to make sure the piston ring is sitting square in the bore. Once this condition is met, the ring end gap can be accurately measured using a feeler gauge. Any required clearance adjustments can then be made. Each ring set is kept matched to the bore in which it was measured. Desired gap is 0.022 inch for the top ring and 0.020 inch for the second ring.  Here are the prepared piston...  Here are the prepared piston and rod assemblies, complete with their ring sets, and ready for installation. The wristpins use spiral lock retainers with full floating wristpins.  New cam bearings are installed...  New cam bearings are installed since the Dart block does not come with them. The bearings and journals are lubed and the camshaft installed. The cam lobes receive a coating of assembly lube through the bottom of the block.  After installing and lubricating...  After installing and lubricating the upper bearing halves, the crankshaft is lowered into place. A one-piece rear main seal will be used, as the Dart block is designed for this style of seal use only.  Next, with the crank in the...  Next, with the crank in the saddle, the main caps are installed and torqued into place. The inner bolts go to 105 ft-lb and the outers to 80 ft-lb. They certainly look sturdier than the stock two bolt main caps found on production Ford blocks. A double-row timing set was selected, and here the installation is being completed. Because we're using an electric fuel pump, the mechanical fuel pump drive eccentric is absent from the face of the cam sprocket, but Smeding can provide the correct parts for a carbureted setup as well.  The engine block is stood...  The engine block is stood up for installation of the piston and connecting-rod assemblies. With the rings held in by a ring compressor, the assemblies are carefully tapped into the bore using a mallet handle. When the rod reaches the journal, the rod ends are installed and the cap screws torqued to 63 ft-lb using ARP assembly lube.
 | Project Snake Charmer is finished and on the road Check out the diary for more! |  | We'd like to introduce you to Mustang & Fords' new project, Project Snake Charmer |  | We Go Back to School-and Like It! The Factory Five Racing Cobra Roadster Kit Car Buildup Series Continues At The Build School. |  | Our Factory Five Roadster Suspension Finds Its Way to Our Frame |  | Our Factory Five Roadster gets its motivation from a Smeding Performance 427 |  | We install and prepare the aluminum panels for Project Snake Charmer |  | Our Factory Five Roadster gets a Drivetrain Specialtists rear end for Project Snake Charmer |  | Our project becomes a roller with brakes, wheels, and tires |  | Project Snake Charmer receives an EFI based fuel system to feed the snake |  | Our Factory Five Racing Roadster recieves a Smeding Performance 427 Windsor and a Tremec Transmission |  | Our Factory Five Roadster gets a new dash, pedals, and cooling system |  | Installing the Factory Five Racing wiring harness on our Project Snake Charmer Cobra Roadster Replica |  | We finish up the wiring and then turn towards starting the body on our Factory Five Roadster Project Car |  | Installing hydroboost brakes on our Project Snake Charmer Factory Five Roadster before painting |  | Project Snake Charmer Factory Five Roadster heads off for paint |  | Our Factory Five Roadster Begins the Paint Process |  | Our Cobra Replica's Almost Ready For Paint |
|