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Late-Model Door Glass Install - Modern MakeoverOne Piece Products' new Mustang door glass eliminates adjustment hassles and gives your classic Mustang a fresh, modern look From the February, 2012 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords By Mark Houlahan Photography by Mark Houlahan
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Project Generation Gap has come a long way in the three years we've been building the car. From starting with a rusty pile of parts resembling a Mustang coupe shape to a fully painted and resurrected fastback body style, we also have all of the suspension, brakes, and drivetrain fitted permanently to the project as well. So, over the next few months, we'll be tackling some of the "cleaner" portions of the project like wiring, interior, lighting, and so forth. The days of cutting, grinding, cleaning, and generally destroying a healthy amount of old Mustang show T-shirts is behind us, and we're excited to wrap the project and get it out on the road for all to see. Longtime readers know that our '68 Mustang project embraces our "modified" name wholeheartedly. While the most obvious modification is the coupe-to-fastback conversion, we can't ignore such popular modifications as the EFI modular 4.6L Three-Valve engine from the '05-and- up Mustang we installed, or the four-wheel disc brakes, coilover suspension, custom body tweaks, and more the car has been built with. But we have more tricks up our sleeve for Generation Gap. While not originally part of our initial build plans, as can be seen by our concept drawing from Cars by Chris (www.cars-by-chris.com), when we find something new that we feel fits the build style of our fastback, we'll alter said plan as needed. Case in point is our Mustang's glass. At the onset of the project, we planned to simply install a new windshield and backlite, and convert the door glass to fastback glass that is now being reproduced. However, as the build progressed, we found less and less chrome/stainless finding its way back to the car due to fiberglass bumpers, modern painted door handles, and so forth. Our first thought was to paint or powdercoat the vent window frames, but when we got wind of One Piece Products (OPP) out of Whittier, California, and its new one-piece door glass that eliminates the vent window frame completely for a modern feel, we had to take a closer look. Ben Tapia of OPP has been developing new door glass that eliminates the vent window frame for GM cars and trucks for several years, and delved into the Ford market with Mustang door glass, F-series door glass, and even a trick new power quarter vent window for the '05-and-up Mustang. The kit comes complete with tempered door glass, all mounting hardware, brackets, tracks, and even new door glass scrapers/seals for $985. Dropping close to a grand into your project might feel like a pain in the wallet, but consider this thought for a moment; disregarding the fact our original door glass was wrong for the body style we now had, let's speculate we wanted to have new vent window frames, new glass, and all the internal door parts (minus the regulator) needed to make the glass work. Seeing as how we're starting off with a bare door shell, this isn't a stretch of the imagination here. Grabbing a popular restoration parts catalog and a calculator, we determined it would cost $2,019.75 for new vent assemblies, new door glass with stainless trim, glass guides, and belt line moldings. So, we're actually saving more than $1,000 by going custom! This is a great option for those building with a Dynacorn body too. Besides the money savings (which we'll be putting to good use with an Electric-Life power window kit and power door locks), ditching the vent windows has several benefits. First and foremost is safety. The division bar and the vent window frame is an obstruction to visual safety. Driving on today's roads in congested traffic at speed means being able to see cross traffic and traffic coming from behind via your mirrors. There's also the hassle of window adjustment. Anyone who has tried to adjust a vintage Mustang's door glass knows what a pain it can be to have to adjust the glass and the vent frame so they work in harmony for smooth operation and to seal the door glass to the car. Speaking of sealing, with the one-piece door glass, you can easily reuse your fastback's side rail weatherstrip with just a little adjustment, and you'll have less chance of air leaks since the vent window gasket and division bar weatherstrip are eliminated. Best of all, the modification only requires drilling a few holes and cutting away two spot-welded tabs in your door shell, all of which can be accomplished on a completed/painted car, as we're doing here; so check it out in the following photos. More Electric-Life Goodies! Anyone who has tried to adjust a vintage Mustang's door glass knows what a pain it can be to have to adjust the glass and the vent frame so they work in harmony for smooth operation and to seal the door glass to the car Besides the money savings (which we'll be putting to good use with an Electric-Life power window kit and power door locks), ditching the vent windows has several benefits. First and foremost is safety.  1 We’re starting with an...  1 We’re starting with an empty door shell, but in actuality, so will you, as everything will be removed from the door before beginning the installation of the OPP kit—even the manual window regulator if you’re reusing it. Follow the provided instruction manual for removing the original glass and vent window frame, and then use some painter’s tape to protect the door’s surfaces.  2 The OPP glass kit was designed...  2 The OPP glass kit was designed to use the stock manual window regulator, but can easily work with the popular Electric-Life bolt-in power window kit with just a couple of minor tweaks. This is Electric-Life’s FD40 power window kit for ’67-’68 Mustangs and is a direct bolt-in replacement for the manual regulator.  3 Whether you’re using the...  3 Whether you’re using the stock regulator or the Electric-Life power conversion, the regulator needs to be updated with the larger glass rail rollers provided in the kit. The glass kit includes a new glass channel as well that works with the larger rollers, shown here above the new Electric-Life power regulator.  4 Using a hand file or grinder,...  4 Using a hand file or grinder, remove the original roller’s rivet head and then drive the roller body out of the regulator with a hammer and punch. On stock regulators, you’ll need to drill out the roller hole to 1/4-inch, but on the Electric-Life, it’s already the proper size. Slip the regulator end over the new roller and install the retaining nut with a dab of thread locker. Repeat for the remaining rollers. We also secured the rollers from the window frames with thread locker for good measure as well.  5a The modified regulator...  5a The modified regulator and new glass roller channel can now be installed back into the door. Be sure you’ve added the power window motor pigtail harness if you’re adding the Electric-Life regulators at the same time...  5b ...Bolt the regulator...  5b ...Bolt the regulator to the door shell using the original fasteners (or included fasteners with the Electric-Life regulator).  6 If you’re installing the...  6 If you’re installing the Electric-Life power window regulators at the same time, you’ll need a power source to move the regulator up and down to fit the hardware from the OPP glass kit. A battery, charger, or jump box is an easy way to get power to the motor. To move the regulator up, hook the blue wire to battery positive, and to lower the regulator, connect the black wire to battery positive.  7 While the majority of the...  7 While the majority of the OPP glass kit is a bolt-in affair, you’ll have to cut out the two tabs joining the doorskin to the door shell. A simple hacksaw will get the job done, but be sure to protect the paint with several layers of tape. A hand file will also help cut down any burrs or jagged edges.  8 The OPP glass kit uses...  8 The OPP glass kit uses basic 1/4-20 hardware (there are a few 5⁄16-18 fasteners however). Do yourself a favor and run a tap through all of the threaded holes in the glass frame, vertical guides, and more. It will make the assembly go that much easier.  9 It helps to have another...  9 It helps to have another set of hands for this next part. Position the regulator so you have access to the glass roller channel’s two bolt holes, and carefully lower the glass through the top of the door and line up the glass frame with the roller channel. Start both of the mounting bolts into the glass frame before tightening them completely.  10 Roll the glass to the...  10 Roll the glass to the top of the door as far as it will go. This will give you room to install the vertical guides supplied in the OPP glass kit. Prep the rear vertical guide for installation by assembling the lower adjustment hardware as shown.  11 The top of the rear vertical...  11 The top of the rear vertical guide is secured to the door with a 1/4-20 bolt through the end of the door shell, just like the stock guide. After a few frustrating minutes trying to start the new bolt into the guide, we got smart and threaded an extra 1/4-20 bolt into the guide like shown, as it is much easier to start a nut on a stud than a bolt into a hole (especially inside a car door!). Remember, there are two roller guides on the glass frame the guide needs to slide over.  12 The bottom of the rear...  12 The bottom of the rear vertical guide is secured to the door shell in the same location as the stock guide with another fender washer and 1/4-20 nut. You can just snug the nut by hand for now, as this is one of the points you’ll be adjusting later.  13 Before the front vertical...  13 Before the front vertical guide can be installed, the door skin will need two new holes made to secure the upper guide bracket. Simply line up the template and mark the two holes to be drilled. Slot the holes a bit to help with guide adjustment later. There is a template for drilling the two holes needed for the regulator stop as well.  14 The front vertical guide...  14 The front vertical guide will require a minor modification when used with the Electric-Life power window kit. This notch cut in the vertical guide upper mount will allow the regulator half-moon gear to easily pass through the bracket. A few minutes with a cut-off wheel or carbide burr will get the job done.  15 The upper vertical guide...  15 The upper vertical guide bracket is bolted to the door shell and the guide itself is bolted to the bracket. This is another of the three adjustment points of the OPP glass kit. Notice how the regulator gear just clears the bracket after we modified it.  16a With both vertical guides...  16a With both vertical guides in place, the glass can be lowered all the way down to allow installation of the triangular filler/brace at the front of the door...  16b ...Thread one of the...  16b ...Thread one of the supplied Allen bolts into the outer door bracket as shown, but do not seat the bolt; just start the threads. Slip the triangular filler/brace over the bolt and then tighten the bolt.  When we get to our wiring...  When we get to our wiring and interior stories in upcoming issues you’ll be seeing more on these two add-ons we picked up from Electric-Life...  ...We’ll be adding Electric-Life’s...  ...We’ll be adding Electric-Life’s power door lock kit with remote keyless entry to Generation Gap, along with a remote trunk release system as well. Stay tuned for full installation details coming in future build stories on our ’68 fastback!  17a The mating bracket to...  17a The mating bracket to the filler/brace is bolted to the inner doorskin...  17b ...The upper bolt closest...  17b ...The upper bolt closest to the door hinge is the long 5⁄16-18 bolt that threads through to the triangular filler/brace, while the other two bolts are Allen-head bolts with large fender washers. The upper rear bolt is most likely going to be too close to the glass and will need to be ground down flush with the bracket, as we did here before installing the bracket.  18 When we opened the package...  18 When we opened the package of glass wipes or “scrapers,” we were pleasantly surprised to see “Made in USA” on the back of them. Later, while discussing the kit with Ben, we found out that everything, from the glass to all the brackets, is made right here in the United States.  19 Due to the fact the new...  19 Due to the fact the new longer glass gets close to the lower door hinge’s upper mounting bolt, OPP provides a replacement bolt that is shorter. It’s a simple remove and replace operation that takes all of 45 seconds.  20 The new glass scrapers...  20 The new glass scrapers simply snap into the factory openings in the top of the Mustang’s door. Just like the stock scrapers, once they are snapped into place, they’re difficult to remove without damage, so be sure you’re ready to install them for good. We still have to install our roof side rail weatherstrips and retainers we ordered from National Parts Depot, and then we’ll be able to make final adjustments on our new door glass.  21 Since painting our fastback...  21 Since painting our fastback we’ve not started on sealing it up with new weatherstripping, but we’ll be remedying that soon with all new seals and plugs from National Parts Depot. For now we just wanted to get our roof side rail weatherstrip retainers fitted and new weatherstrips installed to check the glass fit.  22 Once we loosely fit our...  22 Once we loosely fit our roof side rail weatherstrip retainers and weatherstrip it’s easy to see where adjustments need to be made for a better seal. For those with finished rides you’ll have to move your roof side rail retainer outwards to meet the new glass at the front of the door. Carefully pull the weatherstrip out of the retainer and then remove the retainer’s attaching screws to adjust.  23 While we’re nowhere near...  23 While we’re nowhere near ready to install the window controls just yet, once we get to our wiring and interior phases, we’ll be placing these trick black-anodized billet window switches into our custom center console. The billet switches have a face with red LED illumination for easy night time visibility.
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